I think high-quality stainless steel is even better. But a lot harder to work with!
Good idea on the cast titanium, Andrew. I had actually made a few enquiries along those lines, but have not yet been able to find anyone willing to make prototypes at a reasonable price. I think that titanium is an ideal key material for its strength, light weight, and corrosion resistance. Pity it wasn’t available to the 19th century makers, or I am sure they would have used it. It is hard to join, so attaching key cups would be a problem. The best approach would probably be to cast the key shaft and cup as one unit.
I don’t have any experience of the combined casting / forging approach. We have done hand forging starting with silver rod (Marlene is the one who wields the hammer), and also casting followed by a solution treat/age hardening process which gives excellent results.
Dave Copley
Loveland, Ohio
Andrew wrote: “There are those (and I don’t have any view on the matter ) who consider that heat treatment while hardening the metal fails to deal adequately with the granular structure of castings ,which in time leads to failures . That it is necessary to forge at least part of the key to give strength .That is why I was interested in the combination of casting / forging which in my ignorance I suspect some the early key makers used . I am sure they never expected the keys to be in use after 150 years ,rather than a mere generation ,and may well have thaught casting adequate .”
Dave has basically adressed this, so…
“Even within a business like Rudall & Rose there are huge variations in the quality and style of keywork ,and I suppose there needed to be as the price of different grades varied so much .I cannot believe that the finest of their forged keywork did not take a great deal of time , even when done by experienced " keyworkers” ."
Well certainly the highly ornate work would take quite a bit of time, which would make it even less cost effective to cast because the finishing work would be a real bitch, so I have no doubt the high end stuff was forged. On the basic stuff, I really am convinced that a highly skilled silversmith, given the task of doing nothing but making simple system flute keys all day, would be able to crank them out like nobodies business. Let’s see, can anyone recall what R&R’s average flute output was each year? I think we could work out a reasonable estimate of whether or not 2-3 staff silversmiths could keep up.
"It is interesting to remember how the springs have to be worked to harden the metal ,and make them springy and unlikely to break .
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Indeed, I had to make a couple of these as replacements just a couple of weeks ago (and one promptly got damaged in shipping 
), but lets not forget that hand forging, by it’s nature, does make metal brittle, hence the need for constant anealing during the forging process.
Loren
I lived briefly next door to someone who made stainless steel keywork for silver Boehm system flutes , but I seem to remember that it took him forever .
It would be interesting if there is any evidence of someone knocking out fine forged keys quickly . It is rare enough to see fine keywork of any sort . The only ones I see made seem to take a long time .
I seem to remember that it isn’t too hard to TIG weld titanium , but why not make one piece ones ?
To polish your silver just use a bit of fag-ash on a finger or cloth and rub away that oxide.
This is a great tip. I tried it just now (with cigar ash) and it worked like a charm.
I have always been very cautious about polishing silver, especially silver plate, because when you use a conventional polish you actually remove a finite amount of metal each time.
So my question: do any of the modern clothes or polishes pull tarnish off silver by reversing the oxidation, rather than by removing the later of oxide? Is this even possible? I’m guessing this would have to be how the anti-tarnish strips would work if they do much of anything.
–James
Seriously James, go with the fag ash. Ive seen it used on 18th century antique silver. Its pretty harmless. I reckon you would have to do a LOT of polishing to do any tangible damage to your silverwork.
Mat
But will your suggestion give a Mat finish ?