Keys. Oh yeah. It’s astounding how many people like to play in F, Bb, and A. I tend to work around the lowest 2 semitones (clanky pewter and shoddy embouchure) so a 6-key seems perfect to me. Actually, a 7-key with a long Bb would rock, but I’m just dreaming.
My old 4-key kept me entertained for quite a while til I got a decent 8-key.
Cork, we need to clarify, here. Going for keys doesn’t necessarily mean going Boehm. My flute, a trad timber flute, is “keyed” but still simple-system; IOW the base diatonic scale is still unkeyed; the keys are for c, Bb, G#, Fnat (2 o’ dem puppies), Eb, C#, and Cnat. In this forum there’s a tendency to presuppose simple-system flutes, actually, whether keyed or unkeyed, as that specialty item of the Western flute world has been the thrust, here, from the start.
Not being a Boehm player, if I remember my hearsay correctly, Boehm fingerings have some real differences from keyed simple-system, and so a Boehm instructional wouldn’t be of much help except to a Boehm player. But your recommendations are helpful to those here who are, of course, and thanks.
yes, you can play some really neat tunes with keys (Tom Mcelvogue’s compositions etc.) and the keys have saved my flute from jumping to its death from a table. I hate it when you have a suicidal flute…
Other than slight additional cost (which can be recovered on resale if you don’t like them), nominally extra weight, and slightly more maintenance is there any reason not to get keys?
$65 a key would be a great deal! The makers I’ve talked to have been in the $100 plus range for each key…so that slight cost may be more significant than you think.
Okay, my bad. Just checked Noy’s site, and it’s $250 per key. That sounds right. “C foot with interlocking C, C#, separate $1,400”…I don’t recall that, but maybe the shock induced some amnesia on my part. I presume the Eb is assumed there. “Keys, low C, C#, each $500”…I presume that would be just one without the other, but I don’t see the point of it.
Might be his rates for the functioning C foot have gone up…it’s been 3 years since I first placed my order.
I’m guessing that the $65 figure I came up with comes from checking out pipemaker prices. For as expensive as sets are, the keywork can be mercifully inexpensive by comparison to flutes. $75 per key isn’t unusual as I recall.
Noy’s prices are comparatively high, but the quality’s high, too, and I only waited about a year. “Good, fast, cheap: pick two.”
Dominic Allan in the UK offers handmade pillar mounted keys for £110/E180 per key, or £800/E1320 for all eight keys fitted to a keyless flute. His keywork is great, and very ergonomic.
That is 3 keyless flutes for one fully keyed flute. But worth it I say.
Denny should have a good idea about that! The late Dave Williams, maker of pipes and flutes, used nickel silver for his keys and ferrules on at least some of his flutes, if not all. That stuff’s harder than stone.
Yep, four keys for my copley will cost more than the flute. So given the very high cost of keys, which ones do you want most?
I’m playing in a contra dance band and have been considering buying the minimum to make my copley fully chromatic (Eb, G#, Fnat, Bb). On other days, I think I might like to have that long C and long F, but not sure if it’s worth the extra $.
Given that the cost of six keys isn’t that much more than four keys, relative to the cost of a keyless flute, go for the whole hog. I can see just getting two or three keys, but once you’re up to four, it seems penny wise and pound foolish not to just bite the bullet and get six, especially if it’s a flute you plan to play for a long time (or a flute you might sell at some point for that matter.)
D to F transitions make the long F worth the money, and while it’s far from essential, the C key is nice to have for certain situations.
But “Whole Hog” wants 8 keys, not just 6. That’s why I’m looking for a less inexpensive alternative. One maker does nickle/brass keys, so that’s who’s getting my consideration.