Second-Hand Whistles - Patina Mystery

Whistle
1

Okay, so I have two topics here, but there’s a smooth segue. First, I’ve realized that most of my very favorite whistles were purchased second-hand either directly from Board members or through Dave Migoya, as it turned out, also from Board members. What is your experience with respect to your favorite whistles? My favorites are Copeland ns soprano D (new), Copeland Low G (used), O’Riordan Traveler Low G (used), Abell blackwood Bflat/A (used), Abell delrin D (new), and Burke Black Tip D (new).

Now that brings us to question #2, as my newest favorite was recently purchased from Jessie - a really sweet Copeland brass Eflat, which I’ve been playing almost exclusively since I got it; I literally cannot put it down. I got this because I needed that key to play along with and learn some new tunes; I had never really thought I’d like that high a pitch and the WW I have in that key is just not good.

Someone in another thread mentioned some inconsistency with Copelands but that they are awesome when they get it right. I think buying a whistle from someone you know who has had the whistle for some time is a good bet, because Jessie, e.g., probably wouldn’t have suffered less than a fine whistle.

Here’s the kick. I generally, when I feel like it, shine my brass whistles up. I don’t ask others to do that for me, as I’d rather do it myself. Well when Jessie’s Eflat arrived, it had the most even glorious patina with no fingerprints, smudges, discolorations, etc. Now that I’ve had my mitts on it, there are fingerprints all around the tone holes. Conclusion: Jessie has no fingerprints and I’m calling for an investigation. While not unctious, I may very well be “oily” I guess.

Wiping the whistle down with a jeweler’s cloth and skipping the 0000steel wool doesn’t do it either - the prints stay and the patina goes aflay.

This is one of those small mysteries as I really don’t care that much what it looks like, as long as it sounds so angelic.

Regards,

PhilO

2

I’ve gotten quite a few whistles from others. Some are among my favorites, such as a few Water Weasels, a couple of Silkstone Alloys, an Abell, a couple of Copelands. Phil, I just can’t understand how you could let go of that Thin Weasel Bflat. It took me a couple of weeks to warm up to it, but it really is one of the finest whistles I’ve played.

As for the fingerprints – have you tried acetone, alcohol, or nail-polish remover. I use acetone and methanol to remove fingerprints from things like optics or vacuum components, although if they’re actually showing on the brass, it’s likely that there’s been a chemical reaction. Vinegar also might work, but might also affect the patina.

3

What about the chance that she hadn’t played it much, at least not recently?

Ah…and a huge heap of my whistles…most of them, as a matter of fact, I got used…everything from my Abell to the Silkstones, the Weasel, Grinter, O’Riordan…Rose…all pre-loved

the only new (D) ones I have are the Burke WWB, Busman, Sweetheart, and all the cheapies. The midrange ones (Dixon, Freemanized Gen…) are a mix of new and used.

4

I even stain nickel (Generations) and brushed aluminum (Hammy practice flute). I have no idea what chemicals may evaporate from human skin, though.

Sonja (all whistles purchased first-hand so far)

5

When I was a teenager my skin etched rather quickly through the silver plating of the keys of my first flute.

Some people have skin which is more reactive, I guess.

The results were so disgusting, even to a teenaged boy, that I pretty much swore off plated instruments at that point.

Oddly enough, my Burke brass whistle develops a nice patina everywhere except where my fingers touch it while playing, where it stays nice and shiny. Go figure.

–James

6

Me too, same thing.

7

Quote, PhilO,

Here’s the kick. I generally, when I feel like it, shine my brass whistles up. I don’t ask others to do that for me, as I’d rather do it myself.

Ditto. I also get the shiny fingerprints around the tone-holes as my brass whistles develop their patina. I use toothpaste and wet toothbrush to polish my brass whistles including a Copeland D. I like to keep them shiny. This works really great and the shine tends to hold up really well. It’s non toxic and they are always minty fresh right after.

-Paul

8

Spelling = sucky.

9

Funny, isn’t it Charlie? Just like I gave up the TW and you’ve lovingly adopted it, I’ve adopted others’ Copelands, ABells and O’Riordans, wondering how they could let go of them. Part of what makes the world go 'round, I guess. Anyway, really glad you’re enjoying it.

Regards,

PhilO :slight_smile:

10

I use Simichrome Polish (that’s the correct spelling). It’s a white cream paste that will remove any stain. I use it on brass and nickle whistles and they look brand new. It even takes the mouth stain off my harmonicas and makes them look brand new. Bought the stuff at Orchard Supply Hardware here in San Jose. Can’t live without it.
Good Luck,
Jon Harl

11

It’s all down to the acids secreted through the skin which varies from time to time, and between individuals. Deposited on metals during handling, they cause corrosion.

The actual pattern of a person’s fingerprint can corrode into a metal surface (seen sometimes by gunsmiths and jewellers).

As for prevention - I don’t know…hand washing just before playing or playing in gloves :roll:

Trisha

12

Mittens!

13

Jerry, I’d pay good money to watch you play few nicely-ornamented sets of tunes wearing mittens. :laughing:

14

See what happens when I post something measured and sensible…others are daft instead… :roll:

Trisha

15

Actually, you can play in light gloves, if you cut the ends of the glove fingers off at about the first joint.

I’ve done it–when I was in junior high in marching band white cotton gloves were part of our uniform. I hated them; most of the other students did as well.

For what it’s worth, it seems to have provided that old Artley flute I used to play absolutely no protection at all.

–James

16

My step-son had a horrible condition of “sweaty hands”. :blush: He was always embarrassed by this, to the point we went to doctors. They said the only cure is through surgery. They cut a nerve in his back that stoped the moisture from producing again. It takes two surgeries to get both hands. It’s painful and sometimes not effective. Best advise is to wash your hands prior to playing. Other than that, car wax helps to slow it down, but there go that patina thing. I also used “Happich” Simichrome Polish, tube paste form, which also leave’s a small amount of coating. Got that tip from an instrument repairman. You can get it at most auto supply stores. “Good stuff Maynard!”

17

Actually, my hands are quite dry; gee, I wonder if it’s got anything to do with the Zim’s Crack Creme that I apply liberally during the winter months. I know it sounds terrible, but what great stuff for dry hands!

Think I’ll pass on the back surgery as well. Oh well, back to the 0000 steel wool and jeweler’s cloth for that high sheen look.

As always, thanks guys…

Regards,

PhilO