I recently posted a query on finger position ( left hand L2 ) my Hammy delrin has the usual large holes, I have found that my L2 finger sits more in the hole, no problem when playing tunes, as I now always start of very slow when practicising and build up my speed gradually and concentrate more on the rythm and tone so my question is…
when I try a roll on (G) lifting the (A) finger can sometimes be problematic as its sits in the hole and getting it to lift and seal quickly is difficult.
now I have been trying this method---- Play (G) and then cut (G) and then strike/tap (F)
to my ear it doesn’t sound much different to the A cut F tap, and I can do this roll quite nicely without any issues and with more practice will be able to get up to speed.
I know there is no real right or wrong way , does anyone else use this method???
Cutting the G and tapping the F is the standard mothod. The flute players i know and the flute teacher i’ve met all play this way. I’ve never seen anybody lifting the A finger to roll the G…
for what it’s worth, I cut the a. it seems to me to give a nice contrast in the roll.
Also I have a C. natural thumb hole and cut that. Generally I go for the sharpest contrast where the flute
is still responsive.
I just got it into my head that the usual way was to cut the note above and tap the note below, which is what I do on my whistle, obviously easier on whistle.
so would you also roll your F and E notes the same
play (F) note - quick lift off the (F) hole and back down then a quick tap on the (E) hole
I have a Hamilton, and my L2 fingertip goes down into the hole a bit. Cutting the G with L2 sounded too mushy to me, so I started cutting with L3, which is crisper. If my fingers were faster (or fatter) I might use L2 to gain the extra pitch contrast. I also use L3 for E and F rolls, since for me it’s easiest and sounds the most crisp.
I just got it into my head that the usual way was to cut the note above and tap the note below, which is what I do on my whistle, obviously easier on whistle.
so would you also roll your F and E notes the same
play (F) note - quick lift off the (F) hole and back down then a quick tap on the (E) hole
The standard is:
roll on E: cut G, tap D.
roll on F: cut G, tap E.
roll on G: cut G, tap F.
roll on A: cut A, tap G.
roll on B: cut B, tap A.
I think cut L1 (not L2), tap L3 is more standard on A. Basically, L3 to cut E, F#, G, and L1 to cut A and B. But any cut you can play, you can use. And on some instruments, L1 cuts are useful throughout most of the range.
The cut on B gets you a higher note than the cut on A.
No question this creates more contrast and a more distinctive
sound. I find it more melodious and interesting. Obviously
you must decide this for yourself.
It’s
widely done this way, I believe Grey Larsen teaches it,
though I make no claim
that this is the ‘right’ way.
Again, the strategy, for what it’s worth, is to go for the cut that gives you the
greatest contrast while the flute remains responsive. If one must do it the other way,
because of the flute, or one prefers it, no problem. There are some interesting options here.
practicising them is much easier now that I can bypass the A hole thing, i suppose
I started a bit late with the whole ornamentation thing, and concentrated more on trying to get to the end of a tune with a least a bit
of rythm, although the few tunes I have learnt without any ornaments sound perfectly fine to me, it will be nice to add a bit of extra color
to them, the brains going to take a hammering trying to overwrite what my fingers do automatically, but hey its all good fun.
