Folks! I would like to share with you a picture of my project and ask your advice. I shall try to learn how to attach a photo.
glad to see you made the jump! i cant wait to see the flute.
Folks, Here are 3 photos
interesting project
I’ll leave the advice to our more qualified members.
BTW the line “Roman Numeral VIIII is cut into meeting faces of both threaded parts” seems to be in a standard footer that is shared by most of your site’s pages… 
oh…there is a euphonium player on this site…do be careful.
That looks like a great project Pete…you’ll have a great amount of fun,I’m sure…
I could be imagining things here,but it looks pretty similar to the Flute that I’ve just finished (see the thread Cracked Flute…before and after ) …I wonder if they could be by the same maker ??? Would’nt that be something 
Nothing like a challenge! Looks do-able. The only things I can see not tackle-able with basic home handy-man’s facilities are the broken short F key and the chewed up crown cap (hard soldering on and shaping a new touch for the key, turning a new cap for the crown).
I’d advise you start by thoroughly cleaning everything - remove any pads (hold the outside of the key-cup over a small flame to melt the shellac/sealing wax that is the most likely adhesive) and residual joint lapping. It might be a good idea to remove all the key pillars too - they’ll just unscrew - but if you do, be careful to keep them systematically with their own key - I’d suggest putting each key in a separate bank coin bag or small snap-seal bag with its own pillars and axle-pin. Clean the wood with alcohol, acetone if necessary for any gluey residues, carefully scrape away any gunk that won’t wipe/rub away from tricky corners etc. with a pointy but not too sharp knife. Try to clean inside the cracks as best you can without forcing them open. (Don’t apply any oil to anything at this stage.) Clean all the metal work with a normal household brass cleaner/metal wadding and buff up if you have a buffing wheel - by hand otherwise (you may have to scrape residual shellac or glue off the insides of the ferrules and the outsides of the tuning slide tubes first).
When you’ve done all the cleaning, the next step is to fix the cracks - ask for the next set of advice when you’re ready for that!
Hope that helps. Good luck!
Thanks, “jemtheflute” . I did already clean everything with Xylene and a Scotchbrite pad long ago, but gently on the bore I think. Will I be wanting to smoothe the bore, or is that part of the oiling process at the end? For more cleaning now, do I choose the glue first, to determine which cleaning liquid to use? I suppose mainly we want the wood to become porous at the surface to receive the glue … If I will be wanting to squeeze together the cracks to restore the bore inner diameter, would that be more possible with the wood wet with cleaning liquid?
Hi,
Use the scotch brite, grey pad for rough and white sheet to finish polishing the bore, you just want to polish it, not sand it.
keep the wood dry, I use hose clamps to close the crack, glue with CA glue, get the good stuff at a woodworking store, it is formulated to work better with wood. The liner can be re-glued with epoxy or carefully with Gorilla glue, careful not to use to much and keep it about a inch away from the section that the female slide takes up. you can do any filling of the cracks with fine blackwood dust or in this case a lighter wood.
Work with the flute dry - I don’t think what you use to clean it will much affect the superglue you will use to glue the cracks - just make sure there’s no greasiness in the cracks. I have actually very carefully pulled cotton rag soaked in alcohol or acetone right through a full length crack like the one in your headjoint, but don’t try that if there are any splinters you might catch and worsen. Make sure any solvent has had a chance to evaporate before gluing. Then squeeze a fairly generous amount of superglue into the crack all along the length, flex it with your fingers a few times to spread the glue, then clamp it up (all pretty swiftly!) I us plastic cable ties for providing clamping pressure - you can pre-set them just big enough to slip quickly over the tube, then tug them snug, and put as many as you like along the length - I’d say they were quicker and easier to use than jubilee clips (hose clamps), and less likely to scratch the wood. Don’t worry if they get glued on by over-flowing superglue - they can easily be pulled off it when cut or released and the residues cleaned up with acetone, or if very lumpy, carefully scraped away with a blade before rubbing down with acetone and then with very fine wire wool. That’s the head fixed.
For the partial split in the lower body, I’d put a cable tie around the body just below the end of the split to prevent it spreading, then very gently open to end of the crack at the tenon end with a wedge-sectioned knife blade to allow you to insert the glue. Very, very gently and slightly waggle the blade to flex the crack to spread the glue, then remove it and cable-tie the crack shut as before. Same process for the upper body tenon cracks.
For the barrel, it will be easier to spread the glue, but harder to assemble and clamp it accurately. Also, do the halves fit back together more-or-less accurately and fairly circular, or have they gone out of shape? If so, here’s how I dealt tolerably succesfully with a similar one a while back. I soaked the wooden parts of the barrel in water for a couple of days, which noticeably softened even cocus wood - not loads, but enough. Then I just wiped them thoroughly dry and got on with the gluing much as before. However, I left the cable ties on for a few days until all had dried out, to try to preserve the shape - pretty succesfully. I pulled the ties pretty tight too! The crack-line one side closed almost perfectly, the other one remained somewhat open at the surface, though securely glued and fairly flush on the inside, but filled in neatly with a more generous than usual top-dressing of wood dust and glue.
Once you have glued up all the cracks satisfactorily and cleaned off the outer surfaces, they will need top-dressing (I sometimes just scrape out a little of the glue along the crack surface to give the dressing a better key) with wood-dust and superglue. I also do this where a crack runs through a tenon on the inside surface of the tenon. Don’t worry about down the bore, as long as you applied glue generously and it squeezed out on the inner side - any residues there will get cleaned away when you polish out the bore (body and other unlined sections) or re-ream for tube-reinsertion. If you do the initial bore widening in the barrel with a fine file, you will get some self wood dust for the top-dressing - save it carefully. If you don’t get enough, you’ll have to find some scraps of similar coloured hardwood and file off some dust deliberately. You can also do the bore widening with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel, but sandy dust is not good for top-dressing! Obviously the best way to widen the bores to readmit the tubes without stress would be on a lathe if you have one and the skills to use it - may be absolutely necessary for your partial head tube (I’ve only done full head tubes so far!). In any case, if filing or sanding, be very careful not to “hourglass” the bore.
Keep us posted.
One of the ways to fix the cracks from reopening is to “flush band” the flute. It is a ring that is shrunk around the flute and draws the cracks shut. Ferree’s tools makes the kit and many woodwind repair shops have the equipment - too costly for just one flute. Alternatively they also make blackwood epoxy called “Jet Magic” and you can rebuild broken tenons and patch up some of the cracks - it’s bit more reasonable.
Or -
Save your saw dust from the bore work - you can mix it with clear epoxy and seal the cracks with the same color from the saw dust.