If the goal is to flatten the C#, Cnat and B in both octaves, but primarily the second, a smaller diameter staple or longer taper would be called for correct?
If back D tends towards flat, but the rest of the octave is pretty much in tune, this is a good tim eto think about taking a hir’s breadth (or less) off the end of the lips yes?
And lastly, if you’re getting a great hard D, but with just a bit too much pressure it seems to jump and squeak up to second octave D (without opening the back thumb) has too much scraping been done or should more be done in the area of the “U”?
Just curious to know what your experiences are vs. what I’'ve tried and found in the various reed making books etc.
If the goal is to flatten the C#, Cnat and B in both octaves, but primarily the second, a smaller diameter staple or longer taper would be called for correct?
Correct - you can insert a wire rush rather than go to the effort of replacing the staple (thin wire of same length as staple with a ‘U’ bend at the bottom so as to create a snug fit in staple).
If back D tends towards flat, but the rest of the octave is pretty much in tune, this is a good tim eto think about taking a hir’s breadth (or less) off the end of the lips yes?
Yes - However, you may end up with a sharp second octave and a gurgling bottom D. Based on your third query, I’d actually go for opening the reed or moving the bridle up a tiny bit higher
if you’re getting a great hard D, but with just a bit too much pressure it seems to jump and squeak up to second octave D (without opening the back thumb) has too much scraping been done or should more be done in the area of the “U”?
It just sounds like the reed is too closed here. If you keep the same opening at the lips and scrape the base of the ‘U’, it will free the note up a bit, but may cause more problems with tuning. As you already have a good hard D, don’t tempt fate by scraping more; you may cause a gurgle or make back D even flatter. If soft D is in tune, but hard D is sharp, a little scraping will definately make the note easier and flatter. I reckon just open the reed a bit and you’ll probably fix the flat back D at the same time.
Hmmm, I don’t think the reed is too closed at all - in fact, I’d like to close it down just a touch more than it is already as it’s pretty loud and playing on the hard side. I know it will soften up a bit over the next few months, but my main line of questioning was for the next batch of cane I tackle. Just curious to know what I can do to tweak the design etc. to make the next one even better. Thanks for the input so far though.
Alright, some of my suspicions confirmed, I’m curious to know what the relationship is between staple eye opening size and the resultant internal volume of it, vs. the tone chamber gouged at the mid point of the reed itself just above the staple. If I’m trying to reign in the B and C, would I reduce the size of the staple eye, the staple internal volume and/or the tone chamber in the slips themselves??
I’m curious to know what the relationship is between staple eye opening size and the resultant internal volume of it, vs. the tone chamber gouged at the mid point of the reed itself just above the staple. If I’m trying to reign in the B and C, would I reduce the size of the staple eye, the staple internal volume and/or the tone chamber in the slips themselves??
Ah… the area of tone chambers. Here is where Evertjan Hart needs to step in with some advice. All I can say from my experiences is that closing the eye of the staple will help keep a reluctant B’ and A’ and E’ from dropping out. The tone chamber you’ve made just above the staple will have increased the internal volume, thereby making the second octave sharper by comparison the the first. I’d try eliminating the tone chamber in the next reed and maybe even eliminate the staple bed altogether - If you eliminate the staple bed altogether, the reed will naturally want to close at the lips a bit more and lessen the loudness you’ve been experiencing, but the tails will need a little more chamfering at the edges to prevent splitting during binding (to counteract the fact that the tails will be thicker than they would with the bed.
Some have said that altering the angle and length of the staple will affect notes in the second octave, but I’ve never tried this so I can’t comment on it. I’ve only fiddled with staple eye opening and played around with rushes. If you’re using staples made the maker of your pipes, I reckon you should experiment with changing your reed design before altering the staple.
Right. No extra staples to mess with, but just using the best guess measurements I can gather from what he’s told me in email and looking at the exposed bit of his own reed. I was hoping Evertjan or Alan B could step up and try to tackle the mystery of the octave C/B sharpness.
Well, another bit of cane tied all up to another staple (with a smaller eye, and a shallower tone chamber this time. Guess we’ll see what will happen when they settle out in a few days and I have a chance to finish the scrape. All the best!
