I have only seen a few posts on the best way to leak proof the non-tuning tenon joints of an uilleann pipe set and they have varied from 2 or 3 ply sewing thread, the fake orange hemp pipers thread, fine hemp thread, fine nylon ,cotton, or polyester thread, teflon tape, non waxed, waxed, cobblers waxed, cork grease. The wound thread can be neatly wound with each thread next to the other, or a random criss-cross affair.
So what methods have people found successful?
On my chanter I had been using cobblers waxed fake orange thread ( don’t know what else to call it) and that worked well. With my new set and the quadrupling of tenon joints it was driving me leak crazy. The existing joints seemed to be a mix of dry and bees waxed 2 ply thread. Some were wound very evenly and others randomly. Many of the joints leaked to varying degrees. So I tried rubbing some cobblers wax on the existing binding… No change. I tried adding a little additional cobblers waxed orange thread and got a minor reduction in leaks and some cases the joint became too tight.
But then I read in a Seth Gallager post on pipes maintenance about using cork grease. I had some left over thick bag seasoning I had made with wax and olive oil. I put some of that on the existing binding. Leak stopped… And it made the joint much easier to pull apart.
So another question is have I ruined anything with the grease?
I hope not… I got a real sense of satisfaction when the leaks all went away.
BTW. Sorry for all the posts… But there is so much to learn.
I’m interested to hear the replies, as this is something I’ve been wondering about, too. Seems no matter how I wrap the joints with cotton, some little bit of air is leaking out where I wrap it. I heard to use bees wax, but I don’t know where to buy it.
I have cork grease used for recorders, and I am wondering after reading your post if that would be okay to use.
Had a crazy idea… Back in one part of past career I was a rocket test engineer. We had this magic lube/ sealant called DC-111 made by Dow. It’s a silicone based thick viscous lube that is inert and its properties do not change much with temperature… Where any wax based lube would change a lot with temp change. We used it on o rings, valve packing, threaded AN tubing and on pipe threads. It stopped most leaks… even high pressure helium leaks…
Luddites and traditionalists might gag at the thought… But I wonder how that stuff might work on tenon joints.
Certain types of thread are air permeable - nylon and cotton certainly often are. As a GHBer to trade I wouldn’t use anything other than the prewaxed yellow “hemp”, simply because I know and trust it.
I struggle to see why cork grease would be bad - the stuff is made for musical instruments - but I don’t see a need for it either.
Cotton is what I am using, and it feels like the air leak is passing directly through where the cotton is wrapped where the chanter plugs into the stock on the bag, so I suppose that explains it.
I was also told to go for the waxed hemp. The pipemaker didn’t necessarily say the cork grease was bad, only that he wouldn’t use it. ( I know you aren’t necessarily responding to my comment, but just want to clarify the quote)
I’ve been recommended dental floss a few times by various people, too. But I think it might be better to just go for the hemp and do it right the first time. Not sure as to how well the dental floss idea works.
I use cotton thread and Beeswax and have no problems with these materials leaking. there are certain caveates ,of course. You need to Wind the thread firmly and neatly onto your tennon, as you would do with any material… I buy my cotton thread usually at flea markets where it is possible to find large bobbins of the stuff left over from work by Overlocker machines… The cotton thread is small, in diameter, so takes a lot of winding but this also makes it easier to just get the right ‘fit’…
One problem which does make sealing the joints very difficult is that some makers use poorly seasoned wood and then drill the stock holes Parallel… then the wood shrinks dramatically which can mean that the hole becomes smaller at the open end of the stock, and also becomes oval. These two factors will make any attempts to seal the joint very difficult.
I use Ten year seasoned wood( and make the main stock over at least a six months period) and after drilling the stock tennon holes I use a tapered reamer to make the open ends slightly larger . In this way it is simple to get an air tight joint.
Bob,
I don’t know if you got around to the ‘Corks in holes’ job but when I do this I inflate the bag and jamb my thumb in the last hole and sit on the inflated bag.. if the bag deflates ,at all, I deem it not good enough.
Test regulators by blowing into themby mouth.. when your ears pop and the pain in your throat is too much to bear then the regulator is air tight enough.
Do a search on this forum. Bill H has written the definitive reason for what type of wrapping material to use and why.
I am too lazy to find it currently.
I never use that yellow GHB thread, waxed or not. Too thick, too uneven, and the waxed stuff may not move enough with the seasons. Double that for teflon tape.
Traditional wrap is un-waxed linen or hemp thread which is a bit fuzzy. The first few inches or so of the hemp should have cobblers’ wax applied to it so the thread sticks securely to the pin. The thread should be thinner than the yellow linen sold by GHB suppliers. The amount of hemp applied in the top wrap can be varied to adjust the tension in the joint due to the timber shrinking or swelling. Cork grease or bees wax and oil can be applied to the surface of a wrap that mates with metal, as in some chanter or bass regulator caps. Neatly applied one thread next to the last and under tension, the wrap will be air-tight and adjustable by varying the amount of hemp applied on the top wrap. I supply hemp and wax specifically for this job. PM me to get some. Waxed yellow linen was developed to keep the thread dry in mouth-blown pipes. It lacks the cushioning effect of raw hemp. The fuzziness helps assure an air-tight joint. This has worked well for centuries. Avoid plumber’s tape. It is meant to be slick so too much hemp must be under it for it to seal. An easier fit can be accomplished without it or any waxes, grease or other additives. Raw hemp on the top is all you need for an easy fitting, air-tight joint. Avoid cotton, polyester etc. as well.
