Well, I’m thinking that my reed has become aclimatized, and this is not good! It seems that the bridle has slipped downwards, and there is now approx. 1/4 inch of loose space, where the bridle needs to be, but will not stay in place.
It would seem, to me, that the bridle needs to be tightened (aeeii!! Don’t touch it!!) I know, but what to do??? tok is making me a new reed, but until it arrives, is there anything that I might do to hold the reed in place, or what should I do… I need to practice! Help! (I know, welcome to the club!)
edit: Is there a measurement of how far the bridle should be from the end of the reed, or is that dependent on what style of reed it is?
[ This Message was edited by: elbogo on 2003-01-21 04:00 ]
You could tighten the bridle a tiny bit with a pair of pliers while it is still loose, then slide it back up the cane till it grips. Different makers position the bridle in different places, so there’s no way of knowing where it should be except by judging the sound.
Just made my first proper reed this weekend, to have as backup for when my main reed dies in dry weather. But at the moment the weather is perfect, and the main reed is going beautifully, so I’ll have to wait to make the final adjustments to the new one.
maybe you should inspect your reed carefully. If the bridle was adjusted quite tightly in the first place, it should be possible to see tiny marks on the cane, indicating the correct position.
Alan…elbogo just sent me a photo of his reed. The scrape looks way too long, the copper bridle too big, the scrape has been changed from a uniform V to a U. You can see the change about halfway up…the scrape lines suddenly become parallel. Also, the edges of the blades have a steep shoulder where the winding starts…not real conducive to holding a bridle.
I’m forwarding you the pic so you can see for yourself.
Leave the bridle on it…if it worked fine and now doesn’t the likely culprit is reed shrinkage due to loss of moisture content. Rehumidify the air. If you can’t or that fails then slide it back up and prop it up by finger warming a little lump of beeswax and then sticking it to the reed and bridle on the side of the bridle towards the staple to hold it in place. A little tiny ball of wax will suffice. Or, take a small rubber band and wrap around the reed to hold the bridle in place without putting too much presssure on the reed itself…just enough to hold the bridle up. Sobo glue, quite removable and nondamaging at the same place on the bridle reed interface will work fine …a little dab 'll do ya.
Hey, thanks, everyone! Lorenzo actually gave me a really good, time-honored idea, when he mentioned that Liam O’Flynn used thread under his bridle. This seems the most innocent , temporary solution, and it works! So until I get my reed from T. Kennedy, I am able to practice!!
By the way, anima, my mistake… it is not an elder reed.
edit: No not the hammer, Tony, not the hammer!
[ This Message was edited by: elbogo on 2003-01-22 04:12 ]
Heres the deal , some reedmakers make the reed so that the bridle is used to close the reed lips down , the other side , or vica vera , is to set or tie the red so that the bridle is moved ever so slightly to open the reed lips some . Either way , the goal is to give the cane fibers some bit of tension , and that is what gives the reed responsiveness, and reedy sound . my 4 cents ,
Heres the deal , some reedmakers make the reed so that the bridle is used to close the reed lips down , the other side , or vica vera , is to set or tie the red so that the bridle is moved ever so slightly to open the reed lips some . Either way , the goal is to give the cane fibers some bit of tension , and that is what gives the reed responsiveness, and reedy sound . my 4 cents ,