This is going to be my “parts car”.
More to follow when I can get some shop time with the dremel tool. 
Cheers,
Kirk
Something like this. Shouldn’t take much work.
Progress! I used hot glue to test it for a bit and I like it a lot. Now I have some JB Weld hardening up for the permanent fix. It’s a 35 year old junked sax and a cheap Bundy student flute so no harm in tinkering. Now I can switch between the “Boehmcliffe” and the Forbes and not have to think about the F/F# difference.
Cheers,
Kirk
Can you explain this a bit better? How did you reverse the F/F# sounds like a great project? I like the beer or cider in the foreground.
Thanks, It was much simpler than I though it would be. All I did was remove the trill key post and cut off the touches with a Dremel tool to get them out of the way. Then I replaced the post and hooked the springs back up to keep the trill pads down. I then had to remove the post that has the Bb trill key and cut off that little “L” shaped Bb trill touch that covers the key right below the G# touch. I put it back together and then grabbed some parts from the old Sax. I just needed the three finger touches to epoxy down to the flute keys. I needed to leave a little bit of an arm on the middle one so it could close two keys with one touch, but I only epoxied it to the original R2 key key so I could still play F natural by sticking my finger in between the new R1 & R2 touches. The only tricky part is adjusting the regulator screws when you’re done. You have to do this make sure all the pads seal properly. It’s a bit of a drill but one you get it dialed in it works great. The RH finger stretch is a tad wider now but no worse than a simple system flute. I’ll try to post a video sometime soon so you can see how the mechanism works.
Oh and BTW it was a glass of ale. I needed it to get the courage to tear the old sax apart. And now I can honestly say that I’ve had sax on the kitchen table. 
Cheers,
Kirk
isn’t F# a bit, ah, sharp?
It’s sharper than F-natty but not sharper than F-sharp. Tain’t that the way it’s supposed to work. 
nope, it isn’t…
it should want the old R2 or R3 down also
Believe, It’s not sharp. What was R2 is now R1. I think you maybe be thinking one key off kilter. Take what you’re thinking and move everything down one key to the right (or left) depending how you look at it.
Wait, that explanation isn’t right either.
I’m rushing off to a lesson but I’ll post a video later. It works.
-Kirk
OLD
F as XXX XOO
F# as XXX OOX or XXX OXO
let’s toss the left hand with it’s all down
there is a pad uphill from the old R1 that closes with R1, R2 & R3
this is what you’re using for the new r1 to get f# - but neither of the old R2 or R3 are down
not to mention that if yer new r2 touch is glued to both the old R1 & R2 you don’t have an F natural anymore.
never mind 
I just tried it. Neither the old R2 or R3 flatten it enough to matter. 
I didn’t glue it to both keys. Just the bottom one of the two. There’s a little tab sticking out that pushes the top upper one down. You can also push the upper one down separately to get the F natural
Right, that’s what I would have gotten around to saying earlier if I hadn’t been running out the gap at the time.
Cheers,
Kirk
Finally making some progress. The head joint and foot are done. I think the body will go into the paint booth tonight. Don’t ever paint anything with appliance epoxy if you think you might want to remove it later. This stuff is never coming off. Maybe it will add some body and woody tone to a cheap flute. Or maybe not. But hey, it looks official. 
Cheers,
Kirk
If this ends up continuing to work OK, you can always add a wood headjoint. Waiting to see the end result.
I’ve thought about a different headjoint but I’ll have to really play it for a while and see if I think it’s worth it. I have it completely painted right now but the epoxy takes a long time to fully cure. From the testing I’ve done so far it works great. Sine the RH keys now work independently and the slave is disconnected I can cut E with my R1. Hitting F natural is a little awkward but for the time being I don’t use it often enough to care.
I’ve been practicing one of McElvogue’s A minor jigs and I have to say that it’s really nice to have keys and be able to play tunes like this.
Cheers,
Kirk
Well, here’s the finished product. I think I prefer to call it a “Badcliffe” now due to the stealth paint job. I found some great metal buttons to use for the RH key touches. I have to say that I really like playing this thing. It’s much easier for me to play ITM on it now and jump back and forth between this and my other simple flutes. I’m going to take it to session next time around and give it a thrashing.
