Two quick questions: First, I’m wondering whether any makers have experimented with titanium fittings on their pipes?
Second, I’ve heard that some people find that their skin reacts to Cocobolo? Is this true?
Thanks.
Cocobolo is a toxic wood, and some have had reations when coming in contact with the wood natural oils. But I haven’t heard of any reactions as a result from holding a chanter made of the stuff.
The majority of the reactions are due to inhaling cocobolo dust while turning it on a lathe.
Toxicity of Wood
For centuries, it’s been fairly common knowledge that some woods could hinder your health. As far back as 60 A.D., the Roman historian and naturalist Pliny the Elder described a case where four soldiers actually died after drinking wine from hip flasks made of yew. Of lesser gravity was the experience of a few German sawyers in the early 1700s. It seems they developed chronic irritation of the nose and eyes, as well as headaches, from sawing bald cypress.
What are your chances of a reaction to wood? Statistics say that only 2 to 5% of all people develop an allergic sensitivity to one or more compounds found in wood. But, if you handle a lot of potentially toxic species, and work with them long enough, you increase your chances of an allergic reaction. And, with sufficient exposure, some woods bother almost everyone.
Any dust, including wood dust, mildly irritates the sensitive mucous membranes of your nose and eyes, making you sneeze and tear. The dust of some woods such as western red cedar and rosewood can be especially bothersome. However, other woods, called irritants, can make you even more uncomfortable, with a rash that classifies as either irritant dermatitis or allergic dermatitis. The rash usually has a uniformly red, swollen area that may erupt in blisters, and typically first shows up on the webs of skin between your fingers. Irritant woods include black locust, cocobolo, ebony, oleander, satinwood, sequoia, and yew.
However, for you to get an allergic-type rash, you first must be allergy-prone to one of more of the chemicals found in certain woods called sensitizers. And, it may take repeated contact for your body to develop a great enough allergy for it to react (the so-called "latency period of as little as five days and up to 6-8months). If you do eventually get a reaction, the rash will look like poison ivy - red with small, individual, itchy bumps. Sensitzer woods include cypress, balsam fir, beech, birch, elm, greenheart, mahogany, maple, myrtle, redwood, sassafras, spruce, walnut, willow, western red cedar, and teak.
In addition to the actual wood dust, molds frequently trigger reactions, too. One that actually grows in wood happens to be extremely potent: Cryptostroma corticale. This mold lives happily between the bark and sapwood of many hardwood trees, especially favoring maple and birch. It’s responsible for the marbleized spalting that woodturners prize, and for “maple bark stripper’s disease,” a condition with all the symptoms of a severe respiratory allergy.
If you have an aspirin allergy, be wary of willow and birch. Both of these species possess significant concentrations of salicylic acid (the predecessor of aspirin) and very sensitive individuals might only need casual exposure, such as a whiff of sawdust, to react.
Never say “no” to a dust mask. Among woodworkers, the chances of developing nasal and sinus cancer run about 5-40 times greater than non-woodworkers. Although researchers haven’t identified the exact cancer-causing compound (primarily because the disease has a latency period from 30 to 50 years), some evidence points to dust from wood with high tannin content, such as chestnut, oak, redwood, western red cedar, and hemlock.
If you are sensitive to wood dust, work in a well ventilated area (this also reduces the risk to mold), avoid unseasoned wood as much as possible, and wash or shower frequently. If you develop persistent rashes or respiratory problems, contact your physician or dermatologist.
Titanium is ligth+ hard available sheets and tubes different sizes etc,
BUT, needs special cutting tools +soldering equipments (need special protecting gases etc) Nice character with titanium is, that it can be nicely coloured, allmost all colours can be achieved by heating or electric dc -current (different amount of current gives certain colour)
Robbie Hughes made a set with titanium keys and ferrules 20 or so years ago. Polypenko chanter, too. The chanter reed chamber was clear - you could see the reed.
Years ago I made a set of cocobolo Scottish Smallpipes for someone. He got an allergic reaction (a rash on his hands, if memory is correct) from playing the chanter. To cope with this he put some kind of finish on the chanter. As long as the finish is not worn off he is ok with it.
I know of two other people who developed a reaction to cocobolo while working with it. One had scary respiratory problems for a while.
In my world cocobolo is NOT RECOMMENDED for musical instruments or eating utensils.
Nick Whitmer
It is such a shame that such a pretty wood as cocobolo has to be so damned toxic.
It gives me a poison ivy like rash on my hands mainly on my fingers, also my neck and arms get spotty ichy spots for about a week.. I know a guy who carved it for years and had to stop because he developed an alergic reaction to the wood. A few years ago he picked up one of his carvings and his hand swelled and got all red and itchy… Nasty stuff, I don’t use it anymore… Seth
Oh yea bocote does the same thing to me…
Cocobolo is a dalbergia (i.e. a rosewood). So is african blackwood. Cocobolo has an especially nasty reputation, but all the rosewoods are potentially trouble.
Since “cross reactions” can develop, another down side to working with cocobolo without protection is that it could make it more likely for you to develop a reaction to the other dalbergias later.
I wear an air helmet for most operations when I’m working with cocobolo, and as a rule I avoid using it (I’ve made exceptions). Too bad, it’s lovely to look at, takes a lovely finish, and works very cooperatively as well, and seems to have good tonal qualities (at least for flat pitched stuff).
Bill
I have always worried about this. My new concert pitch set, due to arrive in a few weeks, is in cocobolo. I know the general problem is when you are working the wood, particularly from inhalation of wood dust, but I have heard of cases like Nick mentioned.
It is great looking wood but there is also the difficulty for a pipe maker to get the bits to match, especially if you are upgrading in stages.
I have yet to have a reaction to my chanter, and it will be a year and a half since I have had it. Honestly, I think it is a very small (see minute) chance you will have a reaction.
Many instrument makers seal the wood with (shellac) French Polish that is rubbed into the wood with cheesecloth.
Sold in many woodworker supply houses. You can probably get smaller quanities from a cabinet shop or furniture refinisher.
http://www.myland.co.uk/shellac.html
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=926-719&ov=3943
As the wood ages you should have less chance of it giving a reaction… that is if you haven’t already developed a sensitivity.
Don’t try to use oil as a barrier on the outside, it penetrates and makes the toxins rise to the surface. A few folks on the flute board have experienced that already.
I have not had any problems turning Bolivian/Honduran Rosewood or Maple but Ebony burns my nose and causes mild itching. I use a respirator that helps a ton but if I take it off and get just a little dust on my face I can tell. Unfortunately Ebony has been my favorite wood to work with. When it is freshly turned and polished it has a really sweet look to it.
I am hoping that I don’t have a reaction, I would prefer not to put a shellac or other glossy coat to the wood. I think it looks quite cheesy. I have known of these problems for many year I am just hoping I am not one of those few.
I used to date a woman who was an equestrian rider, and her horse did dressage (or however that is spelled) and she competed in rodeo for eleven years, but the only thing she was allergic to was horses. It was mild and she was not planning on staying away from them. I think she got treatments. Just a worthless tidbit of info I thought I would add on. Sorry.
It’s too late if you start having reactions.
Many makers buff the wood to bring it to a shine.
The shellac finish can be rubbed with 0000 steel wool and it would look like raw wood… not glossy.
There are many suitable matte finish lacquer products that give a ‘dull rub’ look without having to break the glaze with steel wool. Besides, we are only talking about applying a very thin coating with a rag or cheesecloth… not spraying a thick topcoat like finishing a guitar.