Well the Murray barrel is playing again. So thanks again for all the interesting advice, suggestions and tips. I made use of a tip Chris Wilkes had suggested to me regarding a head joint. I put the barrel in a closed tin with a damp piece of sponge for a few days in order to close the crack and humidify the wood. This seemed easier than filling the crack with super glue and blackwood dust. I checked on the barrel each day to see how much the crack had closed. Then I got the idea that after the crack had completely closed, I could prehaps push out the silver sleeve and make a repair from the inside of the barrel. I’d tried earlier to carefully dislodge the sleeve, but the wood around it was too tight.
This proved easier than I had anticipated. After it’s sojourn in the tin, it was very easy just to place a finger inside the sleeve and push it out of the barrel. I don’t know what kind of glue Sam had used to secure the sleeve to the wood, looked like some kind of brown shellac. Anyway I then lightly sanded the inside of the barrel and then used super glue along the crack inside the barrel, easily done as the glue container had a long noozle, let it dry, then pushed the sleeve back inside the barrel. I let the barrel stand on the kitchen table all night to dehumidify somewhat, and also to see what would happen. The next day all was fine and it played like it should. Now it’s possible that the crack will reopen if the wood dries out to much and the glue gives way under the strain, but I’ll try and keep the flute “humid” (in a humid environment) until the summer months are here. If the crack does open up then I’ll prehaps try Cathy’s suggestion.
Yes, I also read Pat’s repair description of the R&R head joint and was influenced by it to not fill the crack with glue. I assume that when the wood has dried out he sands the inside surely in order to get the brass tube back in? Otherwise the drier the wood the wider the crack?