I was wondering if someone would just spell out the steps in oiling a keyed flute. I’m afraid I’m a little haphazard and I’d like to know how the experienced fluters do it. Let’s say it’s a blackwood six-keyed flute.
Many thanks in advance for anyone willing to take the trouble to do this! I did do a search but I didn’t find quite what I was looking for.
Carol
I purchased a shotgun swab kit (a cottony thing and several lengths of aluminum screw together rod). I put a little almond oil on the swab and go up and down inside the bore. I then look to see if the bore is shiny - if so that’s it, if not, then I swab the dull spots.
I keep the amount of oil to a minimum and then store the cotton swab in a plastic bag for the next time.
Because I use so little oil, I don’t have to worry about getting the oil on the pads.
Chuck
Depends how involved you want to get.
An easy way to go (without removing the keys) is to make some little covers for your pads by cutting some circles out of a plastic bag, and then rubber band these over the end of each key, keeping the rubber bands from touching the key, which would cause discoloration.
Oil the bore as usual, then wipe down the outside of the flute with oil as well, just stay off the key blocks and keys. I normally use a Q-tip to oil the embouchure hole, vent holes, and any unkeyed holes. Leave the keyed holes along.
After you’ve let the flute absorb oil for an hour or three, swab out the bore, wipe down the outside, and use Q-tips to swap out the vent, embouchure, and unkeyed tone holes.
Next, if you have enough clearance, use some alcohol or acetone on a Q-tip to clean any oil out of the keyed toneholes and let dry. If you don’t have the clearance to do this on some or all of the keys, just make sure you let the flute air dry overnight, before removing the little plastic pad covers you’ve made.
Finally, hope you didn’t miss any oil that might get on the pads…
I dislike oiling keyed flutes, but when I must, I remove all the keys. However this approach is best for those who have the tools and are comfortable removing and re-installing their keys. It’s not difficult, but using the wrong tool, or forcing something can cause damage to the key or block.
Loren
Loren’s system is the way to go. Its the one most wooden flute makers recommend. I’d like to emphasize two things: #1. Do not let oil come in contact with the keypads. I slide saran wrap under them, and when I’m ready to remove it, I always have a piece of facial tissue handy to slide under the pad as a blotter if I see any oil at the top edge of the tone hole. If your swab material has only enough oil to lightly coat the bore, you shouldn’t have a problem with oil getting all the way up the tone holes to the keypads. Its better to start out with too little oil on your swab than to find that you’ve sludged things up by using too much. Go easy on the oil! #2. Always swab the excess oil from the bore completely and then let the flute dry at least 12 hours, preferably 24. Your breath condensation and excess oil will eventually form a layer of crud in your bore. Indeed Loren, the lowly Q-Tip is the wooden flute maintainer’s basic tool.
I’m glad they’re good for something, since you’re not supposed to use them in your ears.
I agree with all the above but recommend aluminum foil instead of Saran wrap. Saran wrap is a pain in the tuckus.
Doc
Little bits of Saran Wrap under the keys is a wonderfully simple way to protect the pads.
In a pinch a little oil on your pinky finger will work on the embouchure hole and open/vent holes …
Also, don’t forget the tenon and socket ends where the joints butt together. Moisture likes to build up there, and unless you wipe them down after you play, they may stay damp – so it’s good to give them a little extra waterproofing.
Just my .02 …
Oops, sorry, Doc. Never thought of aluminum foil.
(Is this the time to confess that I also use bits of paper towel or napkin when in a hurry or at a gig or fest or such?)
I use wax paper instead of saran wrap or aluminum foil…it’s pretty easy to use, too…not that I’m oiling the old M&E these days, but back when I had keyed wooden flutes I oiled them.
Eric
I use cut up bits of plastic bag next to the pad and a layer of cut up bits of newspaer between the plastic bag and the wood.
That way, the pad is protected but I can see how much oil actually would have got onto it… an indicator of whether there’s too much oil on the swab.
Pamela
What they said. Saran wrap, myself, although the Glad Press’n Seal® Wrap is easier to handle.
Note to self: time to oil keyed flute.
Kevin Krell
Actually, I haven’t ever oiled my keyed flutes that much…
And certainly, not enough that I would get oil on the pads…
M
I oil my flute only very lightly, so no oil drips through the finger holes and on the key pads. In addition I use cling film (that’s how my doctionary translates “Frischhaltefolie”, I hope it is correct) to protect the pads. Sometimes I forget this, though (shame on me!), but no oil has touched the pads yet.
peace,
Sonja
Actually, IMHO paper towel or other such absorbent material is a better choice than plastic wrap or aluminum foil for blocking off the keypads prior to oiling the flute. In fact, I have been using bits of paper towel, folded over a couple of times to add some thickness and then stuck under the keypads to block the hole, when oiling my flute ever since I got it. A year or so ago I had the flute back in to Patrick Olwell’s shop for its “8 years or 40,000 hard low Ds, whichever comes first” unscheduled maintenance, and one of the things he remarked on was the good shape my pads were in after all that time. So I must be doing something right.
Why do I think paper towel is better than foil, cling wrap, etc? Well, first of all you must realize that when it’s said that you should keep oil off of your pads, we’re not talking sulfuric acid or superglue here, where if one molecule happens to touch the pad it will be utterly destroyed and become useless. The reason you want to keep the pads free of oil is because oil buildup can eventually harden them, or oil on the pads can attract dirt, both of which can cause lack of a tight seal under the pad. So it’s a broad goal, i.e. keep oil from building up under the pad, not a specific prohibition that a drop of oil must never, ever come in contact with the pad. In other words, surgical cleansing practices when oiling a flute are not necessary!
Keep in mind the nature of oil. It either attaches itself to (i.e. absorbs into) another substance, or it doesn’t (i.e. it slides off). Oil will absorb into wood, leather pads and paper towels, and slide off of aluminum foil and cling wrap. But the rate of absorption of oil into paper towel is much, much quicker than the rate of absorption into wood or leather. So, if you do as I do and stick a couple layers of paper towel under the keypads before running an oiled swab down the inside of the flute, any oil that comes up through the holes will hit that paper towel and be absorbed before it can reach the pad. The couple of layers of towel is enough to ensure that capillary action doesn’t pull it through the towel and onto the pad, where it could be absorbed if it stayed in contact long enough. But even if any oil does make it through all the toweling, when you yank it out from under the pad all but a few molecules of that oil will go with the towel and not stay on the pad. Those few molecules of oil on your pad are not a problem.
On the other hand, if you use a non-absorbent material like foil or plastic wrap to block off the keys, it is true that not even a molecule of oil will make it through that to touch the pad - while the barrier remains in place. But as you remove the foil or plastic wrap from under the keypad, any oil on the foil or wrap is going to want to slide off and attach itself to whatever is nearby, which of course will be either the pad itself or the wood at the top of the hole, where it will stay unless you meticulously wipe it off with something absorbent - such as a paper towel. So what have you gained by using the foil or wrap in the first place? Why not use the absorbent towel from the start?
BTW, what do you think I use as my swab to run oil through the flute? An absorbent cloth? Of course not! I use a piece of saran wrap on a stick, because the oil will slide right off that and onto the bore of the flute, which is where I want it. (Actually, I have to credit Rob Greenway for giving me this tip many years ago.)
A thin layer of paper towel between a plastic layer and the key hole isn’t a bad idea, but I’d suggest, not skipping the plastic barrier completely, not that I expect John to take my advice.
Why do I think paper towel is better than foil, cling wrap, etc? Well, first of all you must realize that when it’s said that you should keep oil off of your pads, we’re not talking sulfuric acid or superglue here, where if one molecule happens to touch the pad it will be utterly destroyed and become useless. The reason you want to keep the pads free of oil is because oil buildup can eventually harden them, or oil on the pads can attract dirt, both of which can cause lack of a tight seal under the pad. So it’s a broad goal, i.e. keep oil from building up under the pad, not a specific prohibition that a drop of oil must never, ever come in contact with the pad.
Well actually, there’s another major reason: When oil comes into contact with a pad that is then left closed while the oil dries, the pad will often adhere to the pad seat (the wood of the flute where the pad contacts), and then the next time you press the key open, the pad surface can tear, causing instant leaking and the need to replace the pad. This can happen quite easily.
Obviously what John’s doing has worked for him, and as I said, the addition of a layer of paper towel under the keypad, in addition to the plastic, isn’t a bad idea. One can still have problems with paper towels alone, because if oil does contact the papertowel and makes it through to the pad, can cause the Paper to stick the the pad, and also cause a pad tear when you go to remove the paper. I have seen this as well.
One thing John’s suggestion doesn’t take into account is the different types of oil being used - some dry much “tackier” than others, and drying times vary. John may not have had problems due to the type of oil he’s using, others using a different oil my not be so lucky, and having to have you flute repadded is kind of a drag…
Loren
P.S. I also have to caution agains the use of tinfoil : It can also cause damage to pads: Both by cutting or tearing them (usually only on very thin faced pads) but more importantly, if you get a wrinkle in the foil, as the key closes on in, this can make an impression on the pad, which can cause a more or less permanent leak once you remove foil.
Again, it’s one of those things that might not cause problems 90% of the time, but eventually, it catches up with you.
John makes a very good point. I think I’ll put a titch of towel under my foil-wrapped keys from now on.
Did I mention that Saran Wrap is a pain in the tuckus?
Doc
PS: Saran Wrap is a pain in the tuckus.
Disclaimer:
Doc Jones has to wear suspenders to keep his pants up and is, therefore, no authority on tuckuses. Any comments he makes on the subject of tuckuses shoud be suspect.
I never recommended Saran wrap, I suggested cutting up a plastic (read non-cling) bag. What, don’t you have a sandwich bag in that hous full of kids? 
Loren
I’m not sure I understand the reasons behind Loren’s implied hostility toward me and my opinions, but just let me make an addendum to my comments about flute oiling. I’m speaking from the perspective of someone who plays his flute daily. It seems Loren is speaking from the perspective of someone who restores and maintains flutes that may end up spending a lot of time sitting around and not being played. His concerns about oil drying up, rubber bands discoloring keys, etc - and the drastic consequences thereof - are not unfounded. But if the flute is played daily, that oil will never have the chance to dry up because it will be wettened by condensation and/or swabbed out with the next playing, and likewise the rubber band will not be in touch with the key long enough to discolor it.
Think of it this way: An antique car enthusiast will spend no less effort maintaining his vehicle than will a NASCAR driver. But their priorities and concerns will be different, and as a result their maintenance efforts will also be quite different. The same is true for flute maintenance. What you are doing with the flute will determine how you should be maintaining it. If readers of both Loren’s and my advice keep that in mind, then they should have no trouble deciding whose advice is best for their situation.
I’m taking this all in with great interest–thanks so much to all who have responded. Haphazard doesn’t begin to decribe how I have been oiling my flutes, though the suggestions I got were from a long-time flute player. I was pretty much advised to just slather some oil on the outside, try not to get close to the keys, and drop some oil in the (unkeyed) holes to take care of the inside. I think I need to tone things up a bit!
Thanks again very much for the very clear descriptions.
Carol
There isn’t implied hostility, but rather annoyance at comments like the one above, and your attitude that you know better than I and the other experienced woodwind makers/repairers who happen to have thousands of hours of experience dealing with these issues.
For the record, my comments are based on nearly 5000 hours of formal instruction and direct experience making, repairing, and restoring fine woodwinds at shop that has one of the best reputations in the world for this sort of work. During my time there I was responsible for the lion’s share of $50-$60,000. repair work each year, in addition to my instrument making duties. This included work on instruments from players at every level - from those who sent in instruments which handn’t been played in years, to those of constantly working/touring professionals.
I don’t claim to be an expert on playing IrTrad John, and as such, I don’t post like one. I have, however, worked hard and payed my dues with regard learning craft of woodwind making, repair, and restoration, and as such, I do know what I’m talking about.
His concerns about oil drying up, rubber bands discoloring keys, etc - and the drastic consequences thereof - are not unfounded. But if the flute is played daily, that oil will never have the chance to dry up because it will be wettened by condensation and/or swabbed out with the next playing, and likewise the rubber band will not be in touch with the key long enough to discolor it.
Well see, that just goes to show what you know, or rather don’t: Keys can, and very often do discolor, within an hour or two, when in direct contact with rubber bands, and we’re not talking about simple tarnish that just wipes right off.
As for your comments on oil: If it gets into a keyed tone hole, it’s not going to simply going to be “wetted” by condensation and never dry, unless it’s a non-polymerizing oil, particularly the keys further down the flute, which get much less water vapor.
Think of it this way: An antique car enthusiast will spend no less effort maintaining his vehicle than will a NASCAR driver. But their priorities and concerns will be different, and as a result their maintenance efforts will also be quite different. The same is true for flute maintenance. What you are doing with the flute will determine how you should be maintaining it. If readers of both Loren’s and my advice keep that in mind, then they should have no trouble deciding whose advice is best for their situation.
Where’s the eye roll emoticon when you need it?
Okay Dale (E.) Jr.
Many people on this list don’t play every single day, however that doesn’t make them the equivalent of antique car entusiasts. Regardless though, good maintenance practices are good maintenance practices, for the pro, or those who play less. And, just because something has worked for you John, doesn’t mean it may not cause problems for someone else.
Loren