My wife went and bought herself a bazouki and got some new strings for it , i have just changed them for her as she wanted it strung differently from it`s original setup , she wants the strings paired together the same thickness not as she got it , but now finds it near on impossible to tune the bass strings and has just snapped one , the higher strings are no problem any help would be greatfully appreciated , the make is a bluemoon bazouki
I assume you’re talking about your standard Irish bouzouki with eight strings in pairs, i.e. four courses.
What pitches are you tuning the strings to? Usually with an Irish bouzouki the bassmost string would be G or A.
If that’s what you’re tuning to, there are two possibilities that immediately come to mind: first is that you simply had a bad string (it’s happened to me) or there may be a problem with the bridge cutting too sharply into the string, but I expect that’s least likely. Still, I’ve seen that happen, too, but common sense suggests that if a bridge is going to stress a string that much, it would stress a string of any gauge usable on a 'zouk, the thinner ones moreso that the thinner ones. Try another string and see what happens.
If it was set up for octave bass strings, you might need to adjust the slot in the nut. If the slot is too narrow, the string would jam, which means that tightening the tuner just stretches a short length of wire to it’s breaking point. Is the break occurring between the nut and the tuning head?
This is also a very good point. If that’s the one that broke, I’d definitely look into the possibility.
Have you checked with the manufacturer as to whether it can handle the string tension as you intend to string it? Also whether the bridge saddle is compensated for those weight strings (or expect to go out of tune playing further up the neck)? And yes, the nut has to be fitted for the string diameters as well.
What gauge was the string that broke? and what note were you tuning it to?
Yes you mi I suggest tuning up a tone down at least at first. I imagine there must be more tension on pairs of thick strings compared to thick/thin?
I know my Octave Mandola was designed to be tuned CGDA, not GDAE as in standard Irish tuning.
Hi ruffdog … I’m afraid you simply haven’t given enough info. Everyone here is just guessing.
o How many strings, 6, 8, 10?
o What is the scale length of your instrument, in inches or mm?
o What was the exact original tuning setup, string-by-string? And what are you trying to tune it to now?
o What were the gauges/brand of the original strings? What gauges/brand of strings did you buy as replacements?
o Was the instrument properly set up by a luthier or technician at the time you first bought it?
All of that information would be helpful in remotely diagnosing your problem.
Shhhhh.
I love it when someone else stops and asks for the facts. I get in trouble all the time for that.
Sorry for lack of info the original post was done very quickly, its a blue moon bazouki with 8 strings , she hasnt any idea of the make or gauge of the original strings , the original tuning was G D A E and wasnt setup by anyone and was originally strung with a thin and thick string on the G and D strings, she wanted to change the G and D strings to both thick ones . She has just informed me she didnt want to change the tuning just the thickness of the top strings from thin to thick. The make of the new set is John Pearse 80/20 bronze wound set #5200L
Where did the string break? bridge? nut? or elsewhere?
Strings are fine for tuning to ITM pitch. Best to tune up slowly. I gather if you tune to fast the metal gets hot and changes its micro-crystaline structure, or something like that! 
and can cause breakage. Also lubricate grooves with graphite.
It sounds to me like Simon’s first thought was the right one. The slots may be cut specifically for a thin string and may be causing the thicker one to bind.
If they were, you can tell at a glance. The stage 1 fix is to coat the slot and the part of the wire that touches it with graphite (pencil lead), for some extra lubrication. If that doesn’t do it, then you’ll need to widen the slot. Any guitar repair guy can do this for a couple of bucks*. You can also do it yourself, but there are ways to screw this up, so if you’re not handy you might be better off with a pro. If you do it, be careful about keeping the floor of the slot square; you don’t want to round the leading edge, nor do you want a slot that’s too wide or one that’s deeper than it’s partner or the other strings. For the tool, people often use a set of files that are sold as an item of welder’s gear*; I think for adjusting the opening in a torch or something. It’s a set of files in various thicknesses like a feeler guage, with teeth only on the side. This job has also been successfully done by using a wound string stretched tight like a hack saw, but it’s harder to avoid the pitfalls, particularly with regard to not rounding the leading edge of the slot.
*If she bought the bouzouki from a local music store, I’d be astonished if they charge you anything to make a minor adjustment like that.
*As welding equipment, it costs something like five bucks. The same item from a specialty luthiery-supply place (identical except for their logo) is something like $20.
@ Fiddlerwill: If it’s designed to be tuned CGDA then yours is a mandocello. Octave mandolin, by definition, is GDAE an octave below mandolin. The term “octave mandola” is, IMHO, best abandoned as it is misleading. An instrument tuned an octave below (tenor) mandola is a mandolcello, not an octave mandolin.
Ruffdog, Blue Moon is a budget brand of mass produced SE Asian and Eastern European instruments. Quality varies greatly. In the UK the main outlet is Hobgoblin. I have a Blue Moon mandolin - the cheapest they make. With a new nut and bridge I find it a very serviceable and playable practice instrument: quiet but pleasant.
'Zouks with octave stringing (bass courses of thick and thin strings like a 12 string guitar) do really need a set-up if they are to be strung in unison (both courses the same gauge).
A couple of things that could explain your string breakage:
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If you’re trying to tune thick G and D strings to the pitch of the thinner of the original octave pair, then it ain’t gonna happen. They’ll break every time.
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If you have swapped out the thinner strings of the octave paired bass courses for thicker ones then they may well bind or jam in the nut slots, which will be too narrow. Tuning a string that is jammed in a tight slot will, naturally, break it.
I’ll reiterate Buddhu’s comment about setting up. It will surely need a set up after re-stringing in unison, but all stringed instruments benefit from a proper set up for best tone and playability. And that’s doubly true for the members of the mandolin family. While you’re making the change, have a set up done as well. It’s worth the money and you’ll not regret it.
Hi Buddha… Its a mandola right? not an octave mandola if its designed CGDA, or a tenor mandola? cheers I just play the thing
Hey Will.
A rough, and debatable, guide:
If the GDA courses are the same pitch as the lowest 3 courses on a mandolin and the scale length is somewhere in the neighbourhood of 16" - 20" then what you have is a mandola (AKA tenor mandola).
If the scale length were between 20" and about 23" and it were tuned GDAE it would be an octave mandolin or short scale 'zouk.
If the scale were around 23" - 26" and tuned CGDA then we’re talking mandocello.
One can muddy the water as desired simply by restringing to different pitches. Mandolin family instruments are surrounded by arguments about nomenclature and specs. One man’s mandolcello is another man’s bouzouki strung up all wrong…
ok, thanks. Its a Mandola then. my mistake in calling it an octave mandola .