Flute (Sold):
Casey Burn’s Folk Flute for Small Handed Player for sale at $175.00 including shipping fee.
Flute is in good condition. Once a while, I use teflon tape for the joint connection.
I bought this flute about six months ago and I decide to buy a high-end flute. I need to sell this flute for extra cash to buy the new flute.
If you are interested in any of those items, please send me an e-mail.
I have a Burns folk flute too, and after a month or two put in an order with Hammy Hamilton. There seems to be a lot of this going on. Are the Burns flutes so good to learn on that we feel ready to upgrade after a short amount of time? Or are they such easy blowers that we are getting a false sense of confidence? Will I be pulling my hair out in frustration in three months when the Hamilton arrives?
They do sound fairly well with a mediocre embouchure.
From your avatar I had assume that you had been doing that all along!
Denny
Hammy is pretty easy to play too.
Get a Doug Tipple PVC.
Play it until you can get a good sound out of it.
Then see what you can get the Burn’s to do.
Denny
Well put.
Father, just think of it as an opportunity to change your coiffure. 
I’ve seen at least one post suggesting that their Burns Folk Flute was sold off a bit too soon ~ the person appreciated what they had had, too late.
Some have been surprised at the playability, quality and beauty of the Folk Flute’s sound. My Burns Mopane flute is gorgeous and has a rich beautiful voice.
My particular Hammy (Eb) was so difficult for me to play when it first arrived, that I didn’t pick it back up for a couple/three weeks after my initial attempts. I have been richly rewarded with my persistence, however, once I got over my snit at it.
I now have a Hammy in D, just got it, it is all I ever wanted in a flute. It IS my voice ~ which I recognized instantly.
Father, THIS IS SUBJECTIVE!!! Take a clue from another thread going on right now. You HAVE a nice flute already. Play it lots, it will reward you, as will anyone’s flute that they play ~ uh ~ lots. And when the Hammy arrives, wear a hair net! 
Mary
Just picking up on Denny’s remark…I have a Tipple flute and really like it, I am learning to play on it from the Timber book - I think he makes a great flute for the money - if I were to try , later, a Burns or some other of the craftsman flutes you mention, what would be the differences? A quality of the sound, handling? Can someone describe the difference for me as I have never had the opportunity to try a high quality wooden flute (just a high quality PVC one and an antique flute that needs repairing!)
JuliaC 
I had a Burns Folk Flute for a number of months and have had a Tipple PVC for about a year or so. The Burns flute was easier to play and had a better tone I think, but was not as loud in general and didn’t have as rich of a low end. The Tipple flute has a really strong low D (you can feel the vibrations).
I sold the Burns flute, because I needed some money, not because I didn’t like it, and have been playing the Tipple flute exclusively for a couple of months. I’m getting pretty good on it but the 2nd octave is harder to hit than it was on the Burns. The tipple is a bigger stretch for the fingers also.
I think they’re both great deals for the price.
If you’re just trying to get an idea of how you’ll do with flute before taking the wooden flute plunge, I think the Tipple is a great deal (as long as you don’t have really small hands).
-Brett
Julia, more than the similarities…
Burns/Tipple They are both “D” flutes.
The Tipple is more like a bamboo flute than a wooden flute.
Cylindrical not conical
Shallow chimney
The Tipple has large holes. (see cylindrical)
Half holing the Tipple is much easier than the Burns.
The large holes require the fingers to move farther faster to produce a clean sound.
It is much easier to be crisp on the Burns.*
The Tipple needs a focused embouchure with good breath support. (see shallow chimney)
The Burns sounds much better with a focused embouchure with good breath support, but is more forgiving.*
You can play blues on a Tipple in a hot springs in the mountains.
You can poke the two year old gelding in the ribs with a Tipple.
You can play beautiful warm woody things on the Burns.
Denny
Note to Doug: Please feel free to help me out here! I haven’t used this many words in a while…
My first insrument is ?was guitar, of which I have 2 - and I seem to be 2 different players, their characters kind of rub off on you as you play them. Also the expensive one is a bit easier to play(surprise!) So I expect the same to happen with flutes.Have you read the theory in “The Third Policeman” that an exchange of mollecules at the human/bicycle interface tends to make a bicycle become more human and a human more bicyclish? So you get crowds of bicycles hanging around together outside pubs. What if you flute and your face underwent a similar process. Seriously, I spent a few hours last night , having read an essay on playing on woodenflute.com, experimenting with different lip positions and now my Tipple, which was sounding a bit Chrome Boehm, sounds all woody and Celtic instead, hurrah, and my face doesn’t hurt any more.
Denny - your pastoral vision of the Tipple’s adventures in a mountain hideaway fill me with nostalgia for a country life that will never be mine. So does the music. I’ve been listening to a Matt Molloy solo album in my suburban little room and it takes you SOMEWHERE ELSE. Sorry I am wandering off topic.
I have never played a Burns folkflute, so I am not able to compare or contrast them with the PVC flutes that I make. However, I can add to the comments about my flutes.
For one thing, the hole spacing on cylindrical bore flutes needs to be farther apart than on a conical bore flutes in the same key. To compensate for the larger finger stretch, I compress the finger hole spacing by alternating the size of the finger holes. This results in three different hole sizes, with the smallest hole having a diameter of 5/16” and the largest hole having a diameter of 7/16”, which is a pretty large finger hole. Larger finger holes are a little harder to cover, but the good qualities of large finger holes are that they are easier to half-hole, produce loud and clear flute tones, and make slurs easier and more expressive. Consequently, I recommend my low D flutes to those with at least average, adult-size hands. For anyone with smaller hands, I recommend flutes with conical bores or shorter flutes in higher keys.
One difference in my flutes and wooden flutes with a simple joint between the two pieces is that the tuning of my flutes, with a two inch copper tenon, can be changed significantly. In fact, the tuning can be raised or lowered nearly a semitone from standard pitch, just in case you are trying to play with an instrument with fixed tuning that is off pitch.
With regard to the cutting of the blow hole or embouchure, the chimney depth on my flutes is 3mm, which I believe is sufficient to cut a very good playing embouchure. The small round blow hole of 3/8” diameter does require a focused embouchure, but the smaller blow hole is essential for playability, since the bore diameter is a large 21mm, whereas the conventional silver flute has a bore diameter of 19mm. By my reasoning, larger bore flutes play better with smaller blow holes.
Another quality of larger bore flutes is that they tend to favor the first octave. The first octave can be loud and easy to play, and the low D can really boom out. However, with a good embouchure, the second octave on my flutes comes in easily, and I can also play several third octave notes without difficulty.
The tone that you get from an Irish flute is going to depend mostly on your embouchure. Turning the blow hole towards you, and playing the first octave notes right near where they are ready to break over into the second octave, produces the complex, woody tone, rich with overtones, that most people are looking for.
And lastly, in addition to the larger finger hole spacing required, another limitation of cylindrical bore flutes is that the upper part of the second octave tends to go slightly flat unless you blow in the notes, which isn’t very easy for a beginner to do. I have recently designed a small wedge, which is inserted into the flute and rests against the stopper, which compensates for this problem. The wedge also makes the overall tone of the flute less loud but more complex and woody. I talk about it on my website, if you are interested, and I hope to have a sound clip available soon.
Best wishes and happy fluting
Doug,
Thanks, I knew you could do that!
Julia,
Ah, the short answer! The flutes have different personalities.
The player needs to develop the chops to bring out the flute’s personality.
Until the player has developed their technique and style/voice to that point, the question of which flute would best suit the player is, ah…
Thank you! I’ve been working on my pastoral visions… That is, for me, the joy of playing, creating a somewhere.
I see that I have left out an important commonality between the Tipple PVC and the CB Folk.
They are both affordable.
Olwell’s bamboo flutes should be mentioned as well.
All three are affordable, well in tune and are excellent players.
KCJiang,
Now that the thread has been derailed…
One of you short finger people should give the flute a new home.
Denny
This brings to mind the only problem I am having with the Burns. The sixth (D) hole is so small and smooth that my third finger sometimes gets lost. I can feel this hole on low D whistle and make adjustments, but not the Burns. I realize this my doing, but I am working on it. Large tone holes are one reason I ordered the Hamilton.
Thanks to all for the hairstyle suggestions. A dye job perhaps?
Oh, and that’s a really good price for a great beginner’s flute. Anyone thinking of of learning flute should seriously grab it quick.
… removes Eb as an option too. The C and Bb cross finger well. F nat will half hole with some work, then you’re stuck.
As long as you leave some, what ever works!
If not, Turtle Wax might be the way to go.
Dixon polymers are good for that, too 
Do they fit through a belt loop when not in use?
Denny