I tried to perform Steve’s suggested operation: pressing down on the dome over the fipple with my thumb. It didn’t alter shape at all easily, and when I started to hear a cracking noise from somewhere I thought I’d better stop. Breath requirements remain the same.
Perhaps I just need some more guts.
On 2002-11-22 08:58, Michael Sullivan wrote:
I tried to perform Steve’s suggested operation: pressing down on the dome over the fipple with my thumb. It didn’t alter shape at all easily, and when I started to hear a cracking noise from somewhere I thought I’d better stop. Breath requirements remain the same.Perhaps I just need some more guts.
Maybe not. Maybe you did the right thing. I ruined the one I got in the mail this week. Oh well, the Whistle Shop is having a sale, so I ordered 3 more.
i went to the basement with clarke
borrowed tacks from brother-in-law mark
i beat on the sides
in the hope of sweet rides
and all i get now is a bark
btw: i destroyed (=tried to tweak) the unpainted as i was most unsatisfied with it’s qualities. i suspect there is a lot of variations in production clarkes, though.
Hi,
Are Clarkes Originals pretty constant regards to buying and getting a bad one..??
Thinking of getting one, may be tomorrow…
Thanks
Tony Fletcher, Sheffield England..
On 2002-11-22 17:55, Tony Fletcher UK wrote:
Hi,
Are Clarkes Originals pretty constant regards to buying and getting a bad one..??
tony -
i’m new to this. so it’s hard to say who’s bad, me or the whistle. but i already know, there’s some magic in a clarke, & i’ve only known two, one of which i hammered to death.
On 2002-11-16 12:35, jeffmiester wrote:
I’m curious what the long term life of a wooden fippled Clarke is. Do any of you know? Among you, what’s the oldest Clarke that still has the original wooden fipple?
I still have the one I bought as a kid in 1974 (painted with diamonds around the holes). The wood block is still just fine, though tastes a little musty after three years in my parents attic in Ireland. Is NOTHING sacred?
It was treated with linseed oil way back, as I recall.
Ian
Clarke’s are very constant in quality. I’ve never had a “dud” or heard of someone getting one.
Indeed, Clarke’s are usually consistent in quality, although one can occasionally run into one that’s exceptionally good.
Tweak tip: before bashing around on the top of the windway, put a small nail/brad through the sides of the block and the tin surrounding it; this will hold it in place.
Micah
By the way, my attempted tweak doesn’t seem to have done any harm, so that’s good.
I really like the thing. Often I get tired of the air and put it away for a week or two, playing other things. But when I come back to it I always have a pleasant sense of surprise, like it sounds better than I remembered.
On 2002-11-22 18:43, bassnwhistle wrote:
It was treated with linseed oil way back, as I recall.
Where does one buy linseed oil? And then does one soak the fipple block in it, or just swab it on?
On 2002-11-23 15:07, blackhawk wrote:
Where does one buy linseed oil? And then does one soak the fipple block in it, or just swab it on?
Man, just get mineral oil, you can get it anywhere, and it won’t spoil. Another idea (maybe), when I got my clarke, I played it after using chapstick and that sealed the block nicely… just a thought
—The opinions and views expressed in this post are not necessarily the author’s opinions. If you agree with them, they are mine. If you disagree, they are someone else’s.—
[ This Message was edited by: jeffmiester on 2002-11-23 20:21 ]
On 2002-11-23 15:07, blackhawk wrote:
On 2002-11-22 18:43, bassnwhistle wrote:
It was treated with linseed oil way back, as I recall.Where does one buy linseed oil? And then does one soak the fipple block in it, or just swab it on?
You can get linseed oil at any hardware store. Caution though - I wouldn’t put it on a fipple block. It’s very nasty stuff; skin irritant, very combustable, reacts violently with chlorine. We used it to finish wood when we had our custom furniture biz. The rags impregnated with it would get very hot if not put in a can of water after use.
T
On 2002-11-23 20:30, Teri-K wrote:
You can get linseed oil at any hardware store. Caution though - I wouldn’t put it on a fipple block. It’s very nasty stuff; skin irritant, very combustable, reacts violently with chlorine. We used it to finish wood when we had our custom furniture biz. The rags impregnated with it would get very hot if not put in a can of water after use.
T
Thanks, Teri, this explains why there were warning bells going off in the back of my mind when I read the words “linseed oil.” I must have run across this info many years back in some other application.
Use olive oil, works great. I love the sound of my Clarke but when the weather gets colder the tin tends to form condensation. warming it doesn’t work 'cause the tin is so thin it won’t hold the heat.
hmm Maybe it’s the type of linseed oil…
As an avid equestrian and ranch hand, I know that sometimes you’ll have to feed a horse linseed oil if they’re down on a certain mineral. So, if you’re feeding it to an animal, it can’t be very harmful, so maybe it’s a different type…?