hello ~ 
i just bought a clarke original as my second whistle
to be honest i really like the sound comes out from it
120% better than my Little Black
i read about fixing the the position of the fipple and narrowing the windway
and i did both
what i want to know is that the wooden plug looks fagile, what should i do to keep the fipple in good health? (except avoid drinking coke before playing 
)
ps : the smell of it is pretty strangeā¦like rotten lemon.. 
I coated mine in lip balm. Seems to work, though I donāt play it often or for long. Still a fave whistle though.
Iāve run through a few original Clarkes over the years. I donāt think the fipple is a very dense wood (as, say, compared to the Shaw fipple block which appeared to be a much harder wood). The fipple seems to swell and shrink quite a bit with lots of playing, which is why they tend to eventually fall out of the whistle. They also tend to get a bit of a āgrainyā look in the processā¦you know that same look that untreated fences or decks get after lots of rainy-dry cycles.
I donāt have an original Clarke anymore to test this theory on, but I would imagine that an oiling regimen might be a good idea, similar to the recommended method of oiling wooden whistles. This would, in theory, help regulate the water absporption in the fipple and prolong itās life. Iād also be interested in seeing how a more āsealingā oil (like linseed) worked for fipple health.
does it mean soaking the wood in oil?
Um. Is this supposed to be funny?
I used candle waxājust rubbed it on. At least it makes it feel better against my lower lip.
For a while, I was soaking mine in water for a couple of minutes to tighten it up, but I donāt play it much anymore, either.
It is often recommended that wooden whistles be oiled to prevent cracking. Oil helps regulate the absorption and release of moisture.
When Iāve owned wooden whistles, Iāve generally used a swab to oil the bore. Iād imagine it would be difficult to oil a fipple this way..perhaps dipping the fipple in oil, and leaving it set in such a way so as to completely drain would work. In the past, Iāve used 5 parts olive oil, one part sweet almond oil, and the goo from one vitamin E geltab as my oil recipe. Iād imagine doing this once a month or so would probably be sufficient.
Hmm..donāt think so. Iāve heard of people taking even more extreme measures to improve even cheaper whistles (like Generations) ..going so far as to completely re-create the labium ramp out of guitar picks and the like. If you like your Clarke (which around these parts cost about $12.00), I donāt see why you wouldnāt spend a couple of extra bucks keeping it in good shape.
ok im dipping oil now~ 
and yeah i like my clarke~ tweaked it a bit and it sounds great
i bought it for like US$9 , really worth it 
thank u guys for the advice 
First congrads on your new purchase. In regards to the wood insert. Most are made of a hardwood such as maple or peachwood. The foremost maker of wood insert whistles āDave Shawā once told me that these woods are bacteria resistant and that your moisture alone is all that is needed to prevent any damage to the wood itself.
First congrads on your new purchase. In regards to the wood insert. Most are made of a hardwood such as maple or peachwood. The foremost maker of wood insert whistles āDave Shawā once told me that these woods are bacteria resistant and that your moisture alone is all that is needed to prevent any damage to the wood itself.
The wooden fipple block should be baptized with Guiness each and every day.
The wooden fipple block should be baptized with Guiness each and every day.
Thatās so true, Ridseard. I would only add that it should be administered by mouth!
When I bought my last Clarke Original C I immersed the entire wood block in mineral oil for 24 hoursā¦then let it sit inverted for a day or so to drain and dry out. It has been oh so healthy for the past three years
and has never been constipated whatsoeverā¦