I’m putting in/on new pads (leather deluxe clarinet pads) onto the keys of R&R 5035. I’m using a glue stick. I cut off a small piece, heat it up in a tea spoon, then pour the melted glue into the salt spoon key that I’ve removed, then I place and adjust the pad so that it sits level. Then after the pad has fastened I put the key back onto the flute. This has worked fine down to the two F-keys. They are not sealing completely and sound very weak.
I’ve read about “floating” the pad on metal flutes and wedging the key shut so that the pad adjusts to the contour of the hole and seals as it cools. So prehaps this would work on a wooden flute by leaving the key on the flute and dropping glue onto the back of the pad and inserting the pad into the salt spoon key, then let the key close and use a rubber band to apply a little pressure so that the pad follows the contour of the tone hole? Or is there another obvious way of doing this?
Hello Thomas,
You’ve hit the nail on the head with the rubber band approach. It will allow the
pad to take the impression of the key seat and encourage a better seal. We
generally put rubber bands on all of the re-padded keys for a couple of days
when restoring an instrument for this reason. The only downside to this
approach is that the rubber bands can slightly tarnish the keys where they
have made contact, but this can be alleviated by putting some kitchen towel
or the like between band and key.
No need for rubber bands. These are closed-standing keys - their spring pressure is sufficient. But you absolutely do need to float the pads with the keys on the flute. It is far easier to install the pads initially with the keys off, but don’t expect them to seal right off like that except by luck. IMO shellac or sealing wax (the latter being the C19th norm) are better than meltable glue. Regardless, first put pads into keys, then put keys on flute. Then hold each key in turn open, reheat the metal of the key cup until the pad is obviously free to move, shut the key and, using a cloth to protect yourself, press the cup and pad gently but firmly onto the pad bed, observing carefully to see it doesn’t side-slip. Don’t press too hard. Then leave to cool and clean up any excess glue. Then suck test - obviously making sure other holes on the joint being worked on are sealed. Repeat as necessary until you get a good seal. Sometimes you may need a tool to manoeuvre the pad on the molten glue under a held open key. Silver keys conduct heat very rapidly, so always use a cloth to hold them open by the touch. GS is less conductive, but even so, take care.
The safest way to heat the key on the flute is with a soldering iron, but it can be done (I usually do it) with a cigarette lighter or gas zapper or a spirit lamp - just hold things in such a way that the rising heat from the flame will not scorch the pad or the wood (which doesn’t scorch easily, let alone catch fire…)
This floating in situ is a necessary, integral part of the padding operation. Done correctly, no further seating pressure will be necessary unless you have some open-standing keys to deal with.