Hi Chiffers,
I have a gig where I need to play fife. I usually borrow a Cooperman from a friend, but that’s not an option this year. I play solo and use the first two octaves. I only need the fife for this gig, so I don’t want to spend a lot.
I see Cooperman has a student persimmon that may fit my needs:
http://www.cooperman.com/fife-news/traditional-bb-model-student/
Is this decent? I would think it is coming from Cooperman.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Jason
Probably a silly question … But if it’s the 8va range you need, could you play a whistle instead? If it needs to look like a fife, you could play it sideways in the transverse position, and few people would know the difference.
The best inexpensive fife might be a whistle. 
I thought about that, MT. 
Looked at all my options I already have. Still need a real fife. Cheers.
I’ve never gotten on well with any of the Cooperman persimmon models I have tried. The Cooperman professional models are better, and you would think that they should be. Actually, the plastic model fifes are sometimes better. YMMV.
For first octave playing I like the Sweet folk flutes. I’ve had C and D versions. But I do not think that they offer one in Bb if that is what you need.
A DIY PVC job is always an option if you can handle that. Or how about one of Jem’s fifes?
I’ve had Dixon’s in D, C, A, G and F but not Bb for some reason. They aren’t the best fifes in my book but they will work. The most recent ones are much better than the older ones from, say, ten years back. The latest embouchure and lip plate work better than previous versions.
I also play a Healy 10-hole fife that does well in the first octave and soars beyond that. Might be too much for casual use though, not cheap.
I play a couple of Peeler fifes too. They aren’t particularly good for the first octave though.
The Yamaha, Angel or Woodnote fifes are more recorder centric in their fingering layout but they do work. The price is usually right.
David Angus fifes get talked about now and then. Never played one. Not sure about the first octave. Medium priced - lots for sale on eBay.
But if you feel the need to try the Cooperman persimmon fife you can almost always find them quite cheap on eBay.
I have nothing but good things to say about these fifes, off of Ebay. http://stores.ebay.com/littlewoodwinds?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 The guy is committed to making the best fifes possible, for a very reasonable price. He has a wide variety of really nice hardwoods, as well, and is great to do business with. I have five of his fifes, in different keys. Definitely check it out!
What are your needs? Specific key? Period look? If it is wood, I cannot say anything about Cooperman’s student fife, but their plastic one is usable With a wider bore for a fife, and their maple one sold to tourists is not worth the trouble, so it seems like a crap shoot. Might be worth a chance depending of on the ability to try or return. Chances are it will be weaker in the first octave as most fifes compromise the first register to help the third, but if you have played a Cooperman, you know what to expect from that style.
There are some wood like bamboo options out there that would most likely have a more solid bottom end. Usually they are in the same price range as the Cooperman student model. Unfortunately I have no experience with those.
Feadoggie pretty much covered everything else I can think of..
Are these designed to play in the lower registers? Would the D version play in the same range as a D whistle? Or are they designed for the upper registers?
Thanks and best wishes.
Steve
Are these designed to play in the lower registers? Would the D version play in the same range as a D whistle? Or are they designed for the upper registers?
Thanks and best wishes.
Steve…sorry for the late reply. His D fifes are the same range as a D whistle. They are loud, just sayin’! Drop him a line, he’s a great guy that knows his fifes.
I just came across this post, some 3 years later. He still has those on eBay, and I ordered a D in Curly Catalpa wood. They really do look nice.
I think you’re going to really like it, BrewerPaul. They’re pretty sweet!
I got the fife two days ago and I totally agree. The curly Catalpa is absolutely gorgeous and the craftsmanship of the fife is superb. I’ve been in communication with the maker on technical details, and I agree that he is indeed dedicated to making the best fife he can. I really don’t know how he can do it for $30 (varies by wood and key).
If anyone has toyed with the idea of a fife, I’d whole heartedly recommend these. I may even go for another or two in different keys.
From what I remember, he pretty much sticks with a half inch bore for his fifes up to G. Seems like he is more for the lower registers of the instrument he mentions G and F fifes, but I don’t recall seeing them for sale.
Ah, here’s the info.
http://www.fontanastudio.com/history.html
He has a G flute/fife in butternut for sale on eBay now. That one sounds like it has a 11/16" bore although the maker refers to a small bore G (I assume it has a 1/2" bore) in the auction write. up. It can be viewed here.
This is nice to know. I have seen these fifes for sale every day for the last several years on my fife/flute/whistle rounds at eBay. I have dismissed them based on the linked sound samples - the intonation on those is not very good.
Feadoggie
Angus Fifes, they are really good. I’ve been to David and tried lot of his fife, very nice quality!!
I stopped by Al’s (Little Woodwinds) shop yesterday for a couple of hours. Had a chance to check out a whole bundle of his instruments—landed up buying two. One caveat: I have never played a fife or flute of this size before; my experience is with simple system, conical bored “Irish” flutes in D or F.
The fifes (or are they folk flutes?) are made from a single piece of wood. No tuning slide or adjustable cork. I saw production versions of D down to G. The Gs come in two different bores—the narrow bore is the same as is used for the rest of the range 1/2"; the wide bore, as mentioned above is 11/16". They are designed to play in the lower two registers, although on some it takes either a very focused embouchure or some alternative fingering to get that second register T1 note.
The embouchure on all keys is 3/8" and circular. Al adds a cutaway area on the downwind side of the embouchure hole to “improve clarity, increase volume, and dissipate some of the turbulence” produced while blowing. This does mean that they all need to be played right-handed, unless specially ordered.
The two I chose, a D and a wide bore G, both produce a somewhat buzzy/reedy bell note and a sweeter upper register. I found the intonation to be fine on all the instruments I tried, with the possible exception of the second register T1 (b on a D whistle) note; and that may be a function of my having to learn the embouchure.
They seem to be finished with a coat of super glue which, in most cases, has a smooth, clear finish. But there are spots on mine where there are small drips, rough areas (possibly from bubbles) and an occasional cat hair. The bores are unfinished and I’ll probably oil them to see what, if any, effect that may have.
The finger holes on the instruments are all of the same size (1/4" diameter) which makes the B2 hole somewhat closer to the B1 hole than I’m used to. A larger B2 hole would allow it to be a bit further down and closer to the spacing on most whistles and flutes. We talked about that and he might consider that for future models.
All in all, at the price point, they seem a pretty good deal. If you’re interested, you might contact him directly to discuss your interest and desires. He may be able to direct to something that better fits your goals than merely selecting something based on an eBay photo.
Them’s my thoughts.
Best wishes.
Steve