I just recently started playing the flute with a Tony Dixon Tb014 polymer flute that I got in used condition for 20€.
While at first I thought this is a very good beginner flute I now have the presumption that this flute might be better suited for me as soon as I can play decently but not as an absolute beginner. Mostly the big 5th hole (12mm) is giving me trouble with closing it consistently when playing a D after the left hand notes. That is for sure a matter of practice but also the embouchure has a chimney like Böhmflutes and the flute is too light and too slippery to hold it in rockstro grip.
Basically I don’t want to develop bad or wrong habits.
So this made me decide to buy “a real one” - but still made out of delrin because of the insensitivity to temperature and impacts and the uncomplicated maintenance.
Living in the EU I narrowed it down to Baubet and Di Mauro.
Now I searched the forums thoroughly already but most of those topics have become quite old now and I thought it might be nice to have some recent input regarding quality and intonation, because both makers probably developed further and might have changed styles or whatever over time.
So first thing are prices which confuse me. Both seem to have an excellent reputation but the prices differ a lot (at least for my purse).
I contacted both and while Baubets website is updated, Di Mauros website hasn’t been updated for 15 years. So his prices are now higher obviously.
Model: Keyless Delrin Flute in D
Baubet: 400€/450€ (short/long foot) WITH flute case
Di Mauro: 600€ without case
Everything seems to be the same with both models, at least the images look very similar.
So are Di Mauro Flutes also that much better?
Or is the inflation in Ireland just more severe than in France?
Now the general questions:
1.) what is the purpose of a screw cap on a Delrin Flute with tuning slide? I see why it could be nice if you have no tuning slide (for tuning the pitch a little) or if you have a wooden flute (to have easier access to the head for maintenance/cleaning).
2.) Is it true that apart from weight/balance issues the long foot has easier high octaves?
My current model is obviously short footed and I do have problems with the second octave. Very obviously this is mostly because I am a beginner but again I don’t want to get bad habits when most other flutes work differently in the high octaves.
In the end I believe these are the last things to decide: screw cap or not and whether short or long foot.
Due to the price I am already leaning towards the Baubet also because of the waiting time being around 3 months compared to October.
I’ll start by saying that prices don’t necessarily mean something is, or claims to be, better. They reflect the cost of the work and the value that maker has placed on the instrument they produce. A lot can go into determining pricing, so your best bet is to read up on each maker and see if what they produce is aligned with your expecations and preferences.
To answer your two questions. The screw cap, if it is truly a screw cap, is a way to easily adjust the cork which is very different than adjusting the slide. The slide will flatten the flute as you pull it out, but it will tend to affect the upper octave more than the lower. So, as you move the slide out the cork should theoretically be pushed slightly toward the embouchure to balance everything out. Early R&R models with the Patent Head had this all occur with the use of one mechanism:
Each maker should advise on the ideal cork position and expected slide position for in-tune warmed-up play. If you follow this, you should generally not have to worry about the cork location. Experienced players will likely find the adjustability of the screw cap a nice feature, but a typical player will likley not miss its presence.
For your second question, some claim the long foot helps express the bell note. Some may claim it helps upper octave notes because it increases the backpressure slightly. I’ll be honest, I’ve heard people play both, and I’ve made both myself, and while I think there may be some differences, I think in the end they are minor enough to come down to preference. Similar to the lined / partially lined head debate (woodier vs crisper), or the Mopane vs Blackwood (same). There might be some slight differences but you’d be hard pressed to reliably differentiate in a blind test, so it ultimatley just comes down to personal preference and what feels best in your hands, and what sounds best to your ear.
Both are great makers, so either would be fine. I’ve been playing ITM on a trad flute for 26 years now and firmly believe once your head joint cork is in the right place you will likely never, ever move it again. So screw cap/cork set ups are just a waste of money…especially on a delrin flute.
As for short vs long foot, it can impact balance a bit but I think a short foot can lead to an easier hard low D and definitely decreases weight.
Just ti throw another name into the melting pot - if you see a Damian Thompson Delrin flute come up second hand (he has closed his order list but does still make flutes and will put finished ones up on his website from time to time) they are excellent instruments. I found a second hand student model on Ebay at a very reasonable cost as my first flute and hugely enjoy playing it (I lucky enough to have got onto Damian order list before he closed it for a 6 key flute). They are easy to play, have a great tone and his website has some excellent players demonstrating. I go motorhoming to hot countries and delrin removes all worry about taking care of the instrument
