ok, so I just got my practice set of uilleann pipes the other day and I’m not completely sure how to play them. I’m getting it slowly, but I’m having one HUGE problem: I have no idea how to make the upper octave come out (sad, yes?). I was also wondering if uilleann pipes are played with your right hand above the left on the chanter. I’ve seen some pictures of people holding them like this, but it just seems so backwards compared to every other instrument in the world (with your left hand above your right). Oh, and one more thing: should picth be a huge pain to keep constant? It seems that way when I play. Does squeezing the bag raise or lower the pitch…I can’t really seem to get a consistent result.
Any other general tips on playing would be a big help (assume that I know next to nothing). Thanks!
I’m a pre-beginner myself, since I’m on the waiting list to have a set of pipes made. I have done some research, including reading this board, and you can do two things that would probably be helpful.
First, find a tutor if you can. Not sure where you are, but there might be someone nearby who gives lessons. Even if you only make a trip once or twice a month it would be worth it.
Secondly, get an instruction book with a CD. I’ve heard the best one is by Heather Clarke (not sure of the title, but it’s well known). You might also want to consider getting the first NPU instruction video–again, not sure of the title, but they are also known. Both of these items can be purchased over the internet by a site that carries Uilleann Pipes and supplies. Check out the various places listed at the front page of this website (listed for tin whistles, but many carry supplies for pipes as well). Pipers on this site can give you suggestions for their favorite places.
to get the upper octave, squeeze the bag harder…increased airflow will make the reed “overblow” much like what happens with a whistle. the high D, however is the back hole.
as with the whistle, second octave fingering is the same as first (except the D)
left above right
left thumb: back hole
left index, middle and ring fingers: top three holes
right index, middle, ring and pinkie: bottom four holes
for the left thumb, left ring and right pinkie use the pad of the finger over the hole, for all other holes use the pad of the middle joint of the finger.
If you are having trouble with hand placement, and trouble getting a steady tone, you are not ready yet to worry about the secong octave yet. Read the FAQs for this forum. Get the books and videos mentioned above. But above all, get at least one lesson with a UP teacher to get you started correctly.
1st things 1st..Left hand above right .(majority of pipers)also makes gettin a full set later easier(especially 2nd hand sets) + if you are starting from scratch it will present no more of a problem than the rest of the techniques ye will be a learning.
2nd Squeeze the bag hard enough to get the 2nd octave on note F.Try and keep this steady for a while,stop the note KEEPING THE SAME PRESSURE ON THE BAG and see if you get the 1st octave note f.
Most pipers I have come across are under the impression that ye have to squeeze the bag harder every time ye want the 2nd octave. This can have a wavering effect on the drones whereas if ye keep the pressure constantly on the bag as for 2nd octave ye will ensure waver free playing and pop from note to note with nae problem.
Heather Clarkes New Approach to Uilleann Piping +CD
The Art of Uilleann Piping Vol.1
Both available frae Na Piobaire Uilleann
15 Henrietta Street.
Dublin I
Rep.of Ireland
Tel.01-8730093
e-mail info@pipers.ie
Website www.pipers.ie
This is not sound advice. And particularly bad piping.
To get to the octave, close your chanter to stop all airflow, build up the little extra pressure needed to speed up the reed, open the note you are looking for and you should get to the 2nd octave. This works for octave e,f and g, a and b will need a ‘stepping stone’ to get there, i.e. you will have to vent/open f or g very briefly to get to the higher note.
Peters advice is sound as a pound and is what was trying to say.The pressure is achieved by momentarily stopping the air allowing the build up and if ye have the air in the bag already cranked up to full pressure then it should be a negligable moment.
Slan go foill
Liam
[quote=“Antaine”] the high D, however is the back hole.[quote]
Since when has this been the case?..
The high back D is 2nd Octave C# and F opened together!!
If ye just open the thumb in the 2nd Octave ye get a kinda E flat.
If ye don’t believe me try it or refer to Leo Rowsomes Fingering Chart.
Seems like there are some odd ideas about pipering out there.
Slan Go Foill
Uilliam
I think Antaine was referring to d in the first octave (back d) but confused his terminology.
Lessons to get started are really essential especially to get the basics from the start.
Just to be in no doubt the above is reprinted.I don’t think it is a confusion of terminology but a confusion of technique.How many others are there out there?
Uilliam
I was referring to the back D, the D above the C above middle C…I’ve never played anything that called for a third octave D, and so was referring to the back D when I said “high D”
as for upper octave bag squeezing, I use a closed fingering, and did even when I was learning, and so I have a de facto airflow stop before any jump into the upper octave.
I live in northern NY on the canadian border in the 1000 islands region (like the dressing). Piping is not big here…well at least I don’t think it is.
I have another question (maybe you guys already answered this): I read somewhere that the uilleann pipes use a “closed” fingering system where as many holes as possible are closed on each note (even the holes below the first opened hole). Is this true? It seems like it makes the pitch worse.
One other thing: when I play 2nd octave D with the back whole it sounds like a C# or even a C at times. But when I finger low D and increase the air flow I get a nice in tune D (for the most part). Oh and by the way, the upper octave is coming out better. Yeah for me!
I would still love any other advice that you guys have. Thanks.
Doan, when you play make sure the bottom of the chanter is closed off against your leg for all notes except bottom D. If you are trying to play them open-ended like GHBs that might explain the tuning problems you report. Also, if you really are trying to play them off the leg I would suggest you dearly need to buy a tutor book/video/CD ROM of some sort, and get in front of any experienced UPiper or teacher to get you started off right.
This is not sound advice. And particularly bad piping.
Well, partially in their defense, both the Clarke tutor and Ennis tutor say you need more pressure to obtain the second octave. Regardless, Peter and Uilliam’s point still stands: you must learn to “finesse” the chanter into the 2nd octave with no perceptible, or at least the absolute minimum of, pressure change. You shouldn’t come away with the idea that you brute force the reed into the octave.
a and b will need a ‘stepping stone’ to get there
On my setup, besides the stepping stone I absolutely need more pressure to get and maintain the octave A. That being said, I dont think I’m working with the greatest setup, and should take steps to remedy that. Peter and Uilliam, do you guys need more pressure to maintain your high A?
If you are having trouble with hand placement, and trouble getting a
steady tone, you are not ready yet to worry about the secong octave
DJM makes very good sense there.
I read somewhere that the uilleann pipes use a “closed” fingering system…
It seems like it makes the pitch worse.
I have no good answer except to find another player who can test out the setup on your chanter. The reed might need an adjustment, or it may simply be that you haven’t yet learned what’s necessary to get your chanter to play in tune. I’m assuming the chanter is properly constructed. Perhaps the more experienced folks here have more insightful wisdom to offer?
I’m probably going to regret asking this, but who made your practice set? Did you get it from the maker or second hand? Whatever the answer the problem is almost certainly beginner inexperience and not the pipes.
I had great success using the NPU videos for several months before I ever saw a live teacher. Its really invaluable to be able to look at someone playing and have them coach you through the beginning steps. Lesson 1 is testing your set to make sure there are no problems, so any subsequent issues are just a matter of practice. Also it was good for me because coming from the GHB, I was used to reading from sheet music. The videos helped me to start listening more and get used to an aural teaching style, which is what is used at tionals (pipers gatherings). So I would recommend either the NPU videos or Mad for Trad CD at first. You can use the quite good Clarke tutor when you have some more of the basics down. Also, the NPU videos and the Clarke tutor teach quite different styles. When you get more advanced you may prefer one or the other depending on the style you like.
jd
I think I’m smoothing out most of my intonation problems now. I have a few more problems/questions:
-when I try to play the second octave it is usually a half step higher than what it should be. I’m assuming this is because I’m trying to squeeze the bag too much. But when I let up on the pressurem, instead of dropping the pitch into place, it falls all the way back down into the lower octave.
-could someone explain this “finessing into the upper octave” thing? I don’t quite follow it.
The differences in pressure are slight. It takes very soft hands and you must be very sensitive to the levels of change in pressure.
This is a practise exercise in itself. All you need do is to make sure all the holes are covered completely (but not hard pressure - keep soft fingers), add a slight bit of pressure, and then try sounding a note with the bottom hand. Keep doing this until you can hit the second octave for each note in the bottom hand.
Then go back and try sounding each of the notes in the lower octave on the bottom hand, closing off the chanter, then sounding the same note in the second octave, e.g. E - e, F - f, G - g.
Pay attention to how little pressure it takes to jump the octave. The trick is to keep the fingers soft, but close/cover completely all the notes between octave jumps. It is a feeling you have to look for, memorize, and then get comfortable with. It takes time and practise.
