Hello Chiff and Fipplers,
the purpose of this post is primarily to thank you for the valuable information that you have shared within the forum, and by way of thanks, to offer up the few little observations I have made in the hope that they might be of some use in the collective data-pool.
I started visiting the forum about a month ago, after suddenly acquiring the desire for a high d whistle-I wanted something VERY quiet, with high-ish backpressure, easy to play and hopefully as “haunting” a sound as possible.
Buying wasn’t an option, so it meant using what was to hand, or available at zero cost - in this instance an aluminium tent pole (17mm I.D. and 1 mm wall thickness-scrounged from the recycling centre) and a piece of 15mm wooden dowel.
I don’t have access to machine tools or workshop facilities, so it also had to be achievable by hand.
For the duration, I had access to a chieftain, a susato, a generation (all high d) and a howard low d for comparison. The sound is similar to the howard but up an octave, and it plays most like the chieftain, except that it has a lower air requirement and higher backpressure. This is exactly
what I was after, and being able to compare and contrast made it a lot easier. Also I tuned the whistle (to about 30 cents flat) before doing the final voicing adjustments-this meant that I could play over its whole range to get the voicing just right, and then bring it up to tune.
The diagram hopefully shows how I got round making the bits out of one size of tubing, and how the block is 15mm dowel with 1mm of aluminium wrapped and glued round it (thus making 17mm and fitting snugly in the whistle body).




Having a composite block like this means that the windway floor is aluminium and can be polished to perfection.
The block, the windway cover and body are such a snug fit (moreso after soaking the block in almond oil) that it wasn’t necessary to glue them.
The windway slot is 6mm wide and 38mm long. The windway cover slot is 6mm wide and 16mm long. The blade is conical section at about 35 to 40 degrees.
The observations I made along the way are…
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The block is now 4mm from the blade edge, and the windway cover is just over 1mm further back from that-it sounds fab, is very quiet(compared to the other whistles) and is in tune. If I move both the block and cover back another 2mm or thereabouts, there is another “sweet spot” -but it’s louder and about 20 cents sharper! Could it be that there’s a series of sweet spots at different block to blade distances, each with their own qualities?
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Moving the windway cover back a fraction of 1mm (but leaving the block where it is) gives preference to the lower octave, but makes the upper one more difficult to get. Moving it forwards makes the upper octave very easy, but if you go too far, the lower notes of the lower octave get thin and unstable before dropping off completely.
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I scrounged an offcut of window sill from a local joinery factory-a piece about 12" by 2" by 1" with a groove down one face-this proved REALLY useful for resting the tube on when cutting or drilling.
Overall, I spent about 20 hours on it, but at least the bits didn’t cost me anything. Tools used were a large coarse flat file, a large coarse half round file and a tiny very fine half round swiss file. Cutting was done
with a junior hacksaw, holes with a hand drill, and finishing with 600 wet or dry and autosol metal polish.
As an aside, the case is a piece of 1/4" wall thickness cardboard tube that I covered in leather, and sewed leather ends onto. The tube is the stuff that rolls of fabric come on, and if you ask nicely, fabric shops let you have the old ones. Short of stamping on it, it seems pretty indestructible.
Well, I do hope that some of that is useful to someone, either now or in the future - thank you all again, and blessings upon your whistling endeavours!
cheers,
Bill Bennett