YEAH!! HAND-MADE LOW D WHISTLE!! done!

YEAH, I drill 6hole on my whistle today, and adjust my mouthpiece, WORK FINE!
when I compare the tones with my Howard Low D, both got a same tone, but of course, Howard low D give out a more pure tone than my hand made one

my next target is low C whistle


but I got a question
in the flute hole calculator:
http://www.cwo.com/~ph_kosel/flutomat.html


it only messure from the end of whistle, but how could I know the distance from the windows (sink) to the first hole ?! Thanks.

The top [high D/c]hole is halfway down the whistle, but you don’t want to start from there.
:stuck_out_tongue:

what do you mean ? do you have a pic for that ?

What do you mean by windows(sink)?

Are you trying to place the hole on the fipple?

It’s best to start out building a blank whistle (no tone holes), then measure from the bottom of the whistle to make the toneholes. If your whistle length varies from the spreadsheet, you can take the difference of your whistles length from the listed length and use that correction value on other whistles in other keys that use that same diameter tubing.

which mean I goto messure the whole pipes of key first, once I reach the key, I can use the calculator to do it ?

I start with the calculator.
I enter a fair sized embochure (1.1cm) and start with all holes at .8cm to see how the finger spacing looks. I then adjust hole sizes untill the spacing is 3.5 cm or less and all holes are between .5 and 1.1 cm diameter.

It will tell you how far from the end of the flute to place the embochure as well as all the holes.

embochure ? we are talking about whistle, not a flute.
whistle should be ignore “embochure” data anyway..

I’ve said this all before, but I’m gonna say it again…

  1. Ignore the embouchure hole and the length shown in flutomat. Cut the barrel a few inches long, and make your blade and windway and insert the fipple. (Get it playable)
  2. Trim the barrel until you get the proper bell note, precisely.
  3. Measure from the end of the barrel to each tone hole center, mark, and drill with the proper size bit.

You will have a perfectly in-tune whistle. No fudge factors are necessary. Ladies and gents, I’ve so far produced a few hundred whistles in varying keys like this, and it works. Period.

The things you must figure out for yourselves, are hole diameters to get the proper placement, and the ratio of hole sizes to get the crossfingerings to work right. For a high-D whistle, 0.4825" ID, 0.040 wall thickness, here is what I use, starting with the hole nearest the fipple and going down:

1/4, 1/4, 1/4, 3/16, 1/4, 1/4

That is the set of hole diameters that give me a whistle that will hit a clean 2-1/2 octaves, in tune with itself, and crossfinger CNat as OXXOOO right on tune.

LKT, I’ve told you all this before, repeatedly. This time, why don’t you print it out and stick it up on the wall by your workbench.

Have fun, :smiley:
serpent

Congrats on the success, glad you did better then me, I built a low G whistle on weekend when I had nothing else to do; conclusion: Its really breathy and I poisoned myself on the cheap lacquer I coated it with :stuck_out_tongue: