WTT: Tweaking breakthrough AKA "Bye, bye blue tack&quot

Caution: This information is for dedicated tweakers (the reasons will become obvious as you read the following).

As you all know, the technique of filling under the windway of a Generation type whistle has been discussed here a lot. Some have been enthusiastic about the results, some have been less enthusiastic or even critical.

After considerable research, here’s what I’ve been able to determine about what the poster putty fill does:

  1. In many cases, it stabilizes the whistle and makes it easier to play, reducing the tendency to buzz, making the bottom notes less fragile, etc. These effects are desirable.

  2. It mutes the brightness of the whistle’s timbre. This result is undesirable.

I have experimented with removing and reinserting the poster putty fill in several whistles and concluded that the improvements in playability are too important to give up, so I mounted an expedition in search of a material that would have the exact properties to provide the benefits without the drawback.

Such a material would have to be:

  1. Opaque to the flow of air. In other words, it would need to have the same effect on the airflow in the whistlehead that the poster putty fill had, so as to reduce the random turbulence and stabilize the whistle. But it must also be …

  2. Accoustically transparent. In other words, even when the fill is in place, sound should resonate inside the whistlehead as if there’s nothing under the windway at all. This will allow the thin plastic shell to resonate freely, which contributes a certain characteristic brightness to Generation type whistles.

The material I selected for this purpose is lightweight spackling compound (Ace brand, to be exact, available in small containers at hardware stores).

I have installed it in a dozen or so whistles with excellent results and expect to use it now instead of poster putty. In addition to retaining the brightness of the timbre, it seems to work better than poster putty in other ways, as well. It seems to be more effective in stabilizing the whistle, and it seems to produce a sweeter sound overall.

So here’s how you do it:

Lightweight spackle isn’t something you can roll up in a ball, drop in and tamp down like poster putty. Imagine now, instead of working with a claylike material, you’re working with ricotta cheese. That’s what the stuff is like.

You’ll need to fashion a tool (a bit of flat metal, wood or plastic; a strip from a cut up credit card would work) that you can insert into the window of the whistlehead and use like a spackling knife.

Lightweight spackle doesn’t tamp down. It sticks to the end of anything you press against it. You have to work it into the cavity under the windway and then “trowel it off” with the aforementioned implement, like you would if you were spackling a hole in a wall.

So basically, the challenge is to put it where you want it and keep it off of the places you don’t want it. No matter how you try, it will tend to get into the windway and elsewhere, so you’ll need to carefully remove it where you don’t want it. You can push it out of the windway with the aforementioned implement, and you can carefully remove it from elsewhere inside the whistlehead with an exacto knife, etc.

After drying overnight, you may find the spackle has shrunk a bit, in which case, you’ll want to apply a little more to bring it up flush again with the end of the windway.

OK. So far, so good.

Now, if everything’s gone well, you’ve done the tweak and been pleased with the results. There’s one more step …

Lightweight spackle is an interior/exterior product, but for applications where it will be exposed to water, it must be sealed with an oil based product. You could use linseed oil, exterior spar varnish, exterior urethane varnish, etc.

After allowing it to dry thoroughly (this may take a day or two), you can seal the fill using cotton ear swabs, using one swab wetted with the varnish to apply the sealer and then using a dry one to swab off the excess. I would recommend using two coats. I’ve found that a little of the varnish gets on the plastic at the window end of the windway. This needs to be carefully scraped off after drying, or it makes the whistle sound breathier.

Anyway, that’s the news.

To follow up on some previous conversations …

This confirms what several people have stated, that the thin plastic shell under the windway does contribute to the voicing of the whistle. Thomas Hastay calls this part of the whistle a “paraboloid reflector.”

What I’ve been able to determine about the functions and effects of this part of the whistlehead is …

  1. The open airspace under the windway does contribute to unwanted turbulence in the airstream, which has undesirable effects on the whistle’s playability.

  2. The resonance of the thin plastic shell contributes to the brightness of the whistle’s timbre, which is desirable.

  3. The space under the windway, whether left open or filled, does not make a difference in the tuning of the whistle (I’ve studied this carefully).

I think you can see, if the unwanted turbulence can be eliminated without impairing the resonance of the thin plastic shell, that would be ideal.

Happy tweaking!

Best wishes,
Jerry

I personally wouldn’t bother - it sounds so much more complicated than just rolling up putty and putting it in.

Sounds like you have a lot of time on your hands! Thanks for sharing, I’m sure a few hardcore tweekers will be braving the holiday crunch to get down to their local hardware store tonight!

Hey, I’d try it. I’ve never been totally happy with the blue tack solution.

Jerry,
For getting the spackling compound into the cavity under the windway (CUW) maybe the thing to use would be something like the inverted cone that pastry chefs use for decorating cakes. They usually make the cone with waxed paper and put a metal or plastic tip into the cone and then fill the cone with icing. The tip gives shape to the bead of icing that is pushed out. For your purposes a longer “beak” could be used, say the long part of a funnel. Might be worth a try.

I would still be concerned about whether sealing with varnish would make it sufficiently waterproof. The way I drool into my whistles I could see the liquid finding all the cracks and melting the filling. What about a material that is completely waterproof like that foam insulating stuff that you spray into crevices and then it expands to fill the space?
Mike

Hi, Mike.

It should be fully durable once sealed with an oil based product. The lightweight spackle is sold as an exterior product that can be exposed to rain and snow, temperature extremes, etc. once it’s been sealed. The whistle application is less demanding than that, so I’m confident it will hold up.

I like your cake decorating tool idea, although I might adapt it, using a syringe instead to accomodate the small quantities involved. I’ll have to do some experimenting.

Best wishes,
Jerry

A few years back I inadvertantly bought a synthetic type wallboard compound, it dried to a styrofoam consistency, not plaster-like at all. Is this what you’re using? It was made by Borden I think (white and orange container w/ cow, like the white school glue).

Yes, I believe that’s the stuff. It dries like styrofoam.

In fact, the thing that made me think of it in the first place was something that happened maybe 20 years ago when I was doing construction work. We had a room to partition off that the customer wanted insulated from sound to make it quiet.

We had some styrofoam insulation on hand, but we weren’t sure if it would work as a sound insulator. After experimenting a bit, we concluded that it’s actually a sound conductor. Taking an eight foot piece of styrofoam, if you have someone hold one edge against their ear, you can whisper into the other edge eight feet away so quietly they wouldn’t hear you through air. However, the sound comes through the styrofoam as though you’re whispering right into their ear.

That’s what made me think of using a foam-like material for the under-the-windway fill.

Best wishes,
Jerry

What on earth is spackle. Can someone translate for UK residents please? I have used beeswax to good effect. Would be interesting to compare with spackle, blue tac etc. Hot beeswax is fun to work with - smells nice but hard not to get scalded :laughing: . I used cut down packaging from a pen to make a pouring chanel.

happy Christmas
Brian

Jerry,
Did you consider making a Styrofoam plug from sheet styrofoam and inserting it in place? That should kill the turbulance and be acoustically transparent and not as messy.

Ron

Hi, Ron.

I’ve thought about inserting some kind of foam plug, but the lightweight spackle works so well, I stopped thinking about other ways to do it.

BJS, spackle (or “spackling,” “spackling compound”) is another name for wall patching compound. Ordinary spackle is like plaster, but this stuff is more like room temperature snow in weight and consistancy, except that it sets up quasi-hard.

Best wishes,
Jerry

BJS,
Spackle is pre-mixed wall board plaster. Comes in a tub like yogurt. Spackling is filling holes in wallboard. And you use Spackle (the material) to make the fill.

Happy Spacklemas.

Hmmm, “room temperature snow” – wouldn’t that be water? :laughing:

“spackle” is a brand name, like band-aid, which has become synonomis with the type of product. Probably why the UK residents cant quite get it :slight_smile: (no offense to you UK residents, I envy you). I believe the material itself (generically) goes under the monkier of “joint compound” but I could be completely off base on that one…

The labels of three different brands I’ve looked at call the product “spackling.” Perhaps “Spackle” is trademarked, but apparently “spackling” isn’t.

Weighty matters, indeed.

Best wishes,
Jerry

Maybe you could pour in some of that acrylic stuff that air hardens.

And yes, Styrofoam is extremely resonant. In fact, Bart Hopkins book “Music Instrument Design” has something called a styrocello, a string instrument with a styrofoam cooler as the resonator.

Hi, Daniel.

Is “that acrylic stuff that air hardens” a foam or other very low density configuration? If so, I would like to know more about it. Can you track down the actual name?

Thanks and best wishes,
Jerry

When I was in construction, they were two separate compounds. Joint compound is used to fill in the joints between separate sheets of the gypsum wall board.

Spackling compound was used to repair or fill in holes in the wallboard, so the compound is dryer and stickier than joint compound and it drys faster than would the joint compound.

It’s sold in aerosol cans with a hollow tube for positioning it. You can get it under various brand names at almost any hardware store. Just ask them for a can of expanding foam insulation. It’s intended for sealing cracks around windows, etc.

It can be very messy to work with though and also quite expensive for whistles unless you’re tweaking a whole lot of whistles at once. That is because the stuff dries out in the applicator once you start using it. There is no way to really clean the applicator very effectively, so you basically want to use the whole can once you’ve started.

I think to use it on something as small as a whistle you would have to squirt a small pile out on a paper plate or something and then trowel it in place much like you are doing the spackling material now. And, having used the stuff and ruined a shirt, I think it would be a lot messier and more difficult to control than spackling compound.

Now, if your aim was to fill the bore of a whistle with foam, you couldn’t beat this stuff :smiley:

What about…a flat, thin wall glued to that space to close it while leaving the space empty??? I guess if the spackle is really acoustically transparent, it doesn’t matter.
Tony
(It’s a really slow day at work today.) A good thing.