OK, so maybe I’ve watched too many Frankenstein movies as a kid, but I see that Howard low whistle mouthpieces are available to buy from several locations, with an inside diameter of 1". And there’s a product called Hollowood available with an outside diameter of 1". Has anyone made anything with the Howard mouthpiece yet? Or has anyone made a low whistle with a wood body? I’m considering it, making a low D and C for myself (not for sale, that would be illegal I believe). How does anyone like the Howard low D? Also, does anyone remember the website that has the formula for hole placement based on the inside diameter/length ratio? If I make one of these and it sounds decent, I’ll let you all know… probably with a post stating “It’s ALIVE I tell you! ALIVE! Muhwahahaha!!!”
[ This Message was edited by: ScottStewart on 2002-01-28 18:33 ]
I can’t say anything other than “DO IT” ohhhh yeah, make that wierd freaky beast of a whistle. Buy a few tubes and make one that is so out of wack and wierd that it would scare the strongest of us.
Of course, then make a real nice one. From what I hear Howards are very nice.
I for one would be very interested in the results of your experiment.
The Howard mouthpiece design is very characteristic, so you might get a wooden Low D with a Howard sound.
I have tried using the Howard mouthpiece on 1" shower rod tubing with fair results, i.e. does not sound as good as a Howard. I also have put a Howard mouthpiece on a Kerry Low D barrel (with extra teflon tape because the Howard mouthpiece is slighty bigger than the Kerry-the result is it sounds more like a Howard (quiter, not stable between octaves) than a Kerry.
A “theoretical” embouchure diameter can be derived from L + W X 2, for course square/rectangle window calculation. Voicing(embouchure)diameters can range from 1/4 to 5/8 of inside bore diameters with larger/louder,smaller/softer. Average size is roughly 1/2 of the inside bore diameter divided by 4(four equal sides of a square window derived from a round embouchure etc.)
Because of the “trapazoid” shape of the voicing window,caused by the area of the labium ramp,fundamental pitch will be a few cents sharp. This can be corrected by making the bore length a tiny bit longer.
[ This Message was edited by: Thomas-Hastay on 2002-01-29 14:46 ]
I would recommend that you make the instrument slightly longer than needed.
Then cut between the fipple and the top tonehole and make yourself a tuning coupler.
Remove material from this tuning coupler until you have it in tune.
Daniel, good idea! Hadn’t thought of that before, but it makes sense. I’m going to try to find some pipe with the same wall thickness as the hollowood to make the mistakes on before cutting into the wood. Where’s Kings Mills in our great state?
[ This Message was edited by: ScottStewart on 2002-01-30 23:44 ]
[ This Message was edited by: ScottStewart on 2002-01-30 23:44 ]
From a real newbie - Ive developed a laminated veneer tubing that can be made to any bore diameter and any wall thickness and up 28" in length - Is there any market for such a thing?
Sounds like the same product I’m considering using. It’s called Hollowood. It’s a laminated wood tubing, available in all sorts of different woods. I’m thinking about using Bubinga or Purpleheart.
Hey, I’ve got a Howard. I bet the dimensions will be pretty close since it’s made of pretty thin walled metal - about the same wall thickness as a generation, perhaps .015 inch. If you want dimensions I’ll measure it for you. I like the whistle pretty well, it’s my only low d and I’m pretty new to whistling. I did loan it to a much better whistler who liked it and said he may just buy one. He wasn’t concerned about the fault I find: high notes A’ and B’ are considerably louder than the lower range of the whistle. Probably just my inexperience. - Joel
FYI - my product is not Hollowood - my product is made differently - Hollowood’s smallest size is the 1" you refer to - I can make mine as small as 1/2" inside diameter to almost any wall thickness - Hollowood is made up of pieces - my material is made in a single sheet and then rolled around a mandrel - just didn’t want any misunderstandings.
I’ve got a Howard as well. I have the previously-mentioned problem with the difficult (high) a and b, as well as intonation, the high a and b are fairly sharp.
Someone recommend adding a few fingers (crossfingering) to flatten, and that works, but eh! I just play my flute now, when I want to play in that range. It does not have this problem.
I gotta say, though, that I love that Howard tone.
Brooker,
Tell me a little more about your product. Is there a visible seam on one side? Also, how strong is it? Have you tested it for how it holds up to moisture? Can it have a finish added to it? I’m thinking of adding a marine finish to the wood, an epoxy or poly. Oh, and of course (you can email me on this if you don’t want to post it), what kind of prices?
Scott - yes, there’s a seem - not to visible - Some of the veneers can be stained - you would have to seal the bore, I suggest a waterbased varnish - The veneer and backing is approximately .010" thick - it’s resonably strong - Pricing has yet to be determined - I’m guessing $6.00 - $8.00 for a small flute/whistle - more for something larger - I have sent samples to several makers and am waiting on there comments - time will tell!