the headjoint is horribly stuck on my copeland low D, I can’t seem to even get it to budge, is there an easy way to free it or should I send it to mr. copeland for repair?
i still have my instructions from copeland. as soon as i get home i will post again- i seem to remember that it covers that. certainly don’t use any tools or undue force. will get back to you soon.
meir
Do not pull. You can run some hot water over the joint. Then twist the two shafts in opposite directions (helpful to use rubber gloves or something to give you good grip) and when you feel some movement keep twisting and gradually pull whilst twisting in opposite directions.
Once free, you should clean the slide piece and can wipe down with 0000 (ultra fine only) steel wool; then coat lightly with some vaseline (or chap stick), and put back together. Should then be fine.
PhilO
get some cloth lined rubber gloves and try to pull it apart wearing them. mack hoover told me this trick of the trade and it is amazing how well it works.
good luck, tansy 
I’ll try the warm water trick and see if it works, thanks.
no such luck, still won’t budge
Every time I have had that happen, warm (hot) water has done it. Try leaving it in longer, in hotter water. Good luck.
My father always told me heat was the best solvent in the world. If the hot water trick isn’t working your water may not be hot enough. You could try bringing the water to a boil on the stove, but make sure you have thick gloves after immersion.
Have you tried say, 20 minutes in the freezer? I’m thinking the cold might make the metal contract.
Cold would make it contract, unfortunately since the larger piece has more surface area it will be able to contract more than the smaller thus making it even tighter.
when I tried it with hot water the second time I let it sit for a good five minutes under scalding water, the whole whistle was pretty hot to the touch
You could try uneven heating. The part of the whistle that goes on the outside should be heated, try to keep the inner portion cool.
You could put the whistle in the fridge then pull it out and immediately put heat to the outer joint.
Also, try some penetrating oil - like Kroil or equivalent.
Do you have the head all the way in or out about quarter inch or so? If out, put some vaseline on that quarter inch and then see if you can just get the slightest budge when twisting and it will go all the way. I’d really stay away from any oils or anything other than what Michael includes in the instructions.
PhilO
When in doubt, send a pesky whistle back to the maker. I know Michael would rather fix it than have you mess it up by trying anything more than you already have. Contact him and ask if he has any suggestions for you to try-- otherwise ship it!
This is one reason that whistles with metal tuning slides should ALWAYS be stored in two pieces. Even the tiniest bit of corrosion in the slide can “weld” it together. My wife purposely makes the little cloth cases that come with my whistles too short to store the assembled whistle, in hopes of encouraging people to take them apart after playing.
I had a Copeland Low D with a frozen slide at one point (not my fault, I swear! 
) I tried the hot water thing several times, I tried the freezer thing several times, I tried going directly from the freezer to hot water. I pulled, twisted, yanked (still talking about the whistle now…), all to no avail.
There is a solution (suggested to me by Michael C. ) however it’s not for the faint of heart as it involves the use of a hammer… and not the sort of hammer one is likely to have lying around, unless one is a silversmith. However, if you happen to have a leather headed hammer at your disposal, give Michael a call and he may be willing to talk you through the proceedure, if he feels you’re not likely to botch the job It worked like a charm for me.
Loren
thanks for all the tips, I may just send it back to michael since I don’t want to risk any damage.
Wise choice.
Loren