I have saw all kinds of tuner in a musical instrument shop, which model could be use to makeing whistle ? Thanks a lot.
Dear lkthomas,
Don’t buy one, PC software is free. There are a few software listings, including a tuner on my site: http://members.shaw.ca/dabooks/music
Best,
David
hmmm, I am wonder if that one would work because it’s depending on my mic and sound card, I don’t know, do you find it work ?!
Thanks.
haha, I only understanding the “Hz” block ( my Howard Low D whistle is 288Hz ), how could I tell if that is Low C whistle then ?! 
Thanks.
I would recommend the Korg OT-12 or similar (Korg makes several good ones). I have the OT-12 and have been very happy with it. It can measure directly from the source (ie, it clips onto the whistle) or it has a mic. It also will allow measuring in different temperaments. Good tuner.
Erik
LK, the tuner I use in my shop is found here:
http://www1.ocn.ne.jp/~tuner/tuner_e.html
It uses your computer mic and sound card. It is also quite sophisticated enough to do very good filtering, and will allow you to get your whistles absolutely bang on perfect tune. It is also free.
IMNAAHO, Tatsuaki-san is a genius.
Cheers, 
serpent
LK…
Get it in tune or BAN!
serpent
Personaly I am a Peterson Nut. http://www.petersontuners.com/
I will put my VS-1 against any needle and green light tuner any day.
There is a point at which accuracy of tuning is academic. You cannot hear a beat frequency <0.01%, which is actually below the level of accuracy given by the shakuhachi tuner I mentioned. I strongly doubt that anyone can. I see no reason to spend large sums of money for tuning accuracy beyond that. I use a rather elderly Compaq laptop in my shop, which operates at 350 MHz - A few orders of magnitude beyond the audio frequencies involved, to say the least. So far, nobody’s complained.
If you use an expensive tuner, that’s fine. I have no argument with it. They have a certain cachet which is utterly disconnected from their absolute, demonstrable accuracy. If you like it, that’s cool. It just doesn’t make any difference in a session in a pub, where nobody but you has one. The fiddle plays an A/440 or thereabouts, and you tune to it. Period. At home, though, it’s all up to you.
Having fun is what it’s all about. If it makes you happy, do it! I love the individual differences on this board! C&F rocks!
Cheers,
serpent
what’s low C whistle of Hz ?
261.6
http://www.cwo.com/~ph_kosel/flutomat.html ← this one missing lob Bb, how about low Bb whistle ? Ridseard
Cough!
A# = Bb
Bottom but one under the frequency choice window
HTH
Thanks man, I am not good in music, so
hehehe
There is a point at which accuracy of tuning is academic
Serpent… I would call that point anything beyond 1 cent. I can calibrate / select individual 1/10ths… but why? The bueaty of this machine is the strobe display. And dialing in the cents calibration. At one pound, it is packing a lot more onboard meat than many other carry around units. Mine is running software version 1.6. (If I had a laptop, I might have considered the PC tuners on the market)
One thing I do with it bagpipe wise, is monitor my steadiness. Once calibrated it mostly picks up the A# +45 cents that my Drones put out. I can see the display from 10’ away. Some guys like tying themselves down with aquarium tubing to a big contraption manometer to accomplish the same thing…
I am actually thinking of upgrading to the VSAM. The programability is the main attraction there.
A piper! I shoulda known! Never tried the shak tuner on pipes - just whistles. It’s a cool piece of software with a big display, tweakable as to range of accuracy. Best PC-based tuner I’ve found, and it’s also free, so what’s not to like!? Still, the laptop ain’t something I’m going to carry with me to a session, whereas your one-pound wonder might be.
Cheers,
serpent