Wax or no wax?

I’m not referring to my legs. I’m cleaning up a set of drones and replacing the binding on the mainstock to fit it into the stock-cup. Is it better to use waxed or unwaxed binding for this?

Heres a blown up section from your avatar, taken at a different angle .I’d say wax.
Regarding the mainstock ,dont wax . Use a soft compressable linen or hemp thread .

RORY

I like to use a little Beeswax; especially rubbed onto the initial wood surface so that the thread has something to grip onto.

I use cotton ( or cotton and polyester) sewing thread, because it is thinner and wraps nice and tightly and its small diameter allows a fine adjustment of Fit to the joint. But even if using Hemp I would rub a little Beeswax on every few layers just to 'firm down the wraps.

Wrap tightly and evenly. Check your cup bore , if it is made of wood, for ovality and parallelism. Wooden stocks can shrink and as moisture leaves more quickly through the end grain it can effect a slight tapering to the bore which means that the stock is smaller at the outside edge than it is further in. The result of this, not uncommon feature, is a joint which is difficult seal. I always taper my stocks slightly in the other direction to allow for a better fit of the joints.

The last few wraps of thread are best left unwaxed.

I am doing this particular job on a new set today . So , the cotton thread I am currently using for the bindings is Four thousandths of an inch in diameter… that requires a huge amount of winding on but the resulting joint is worth it. Every third layer I rub a bit more beeswax on the threads.

When making the binding joints for the drone sliders I start with beeswax but change to Candle Wax ( parafin wax) part way through, which gives a nice smooth moving joint.