Tweaking a LowD Merlin Black Knight, Help Needed

Sorry for the number of my threads, but i really need some help.

i own a LowD Black Knight by Merlin Music.
It not sounds well: the bottom notes are really difficult to play and switching to the highest is too much easy. Is really unplayable.
More, there is too much “chiff” and requires A LOT of breath.
I must tweak the mouthpiece to reach some result, i guess. So i’m asking some tip.

The second quest is working on another tube, but tuned in minor, so i can play some “Venetian” music. The “vivaldi minor” made by Erik is my inspiration
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSbpfxkIuWQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIzKvVt207U

I’ve already ordered a beautiful carbon tube (correct size) for few bucks, i need to shorten it and make the correct holes for a minor D scale… HELP

Many thanks in advance and HAPPY NEW YEAR

Is this your first low whistle? Perhaps you need to tweak/improve your breath control first? Practice playing from the middle down to the bottom notes until they are easy to play. All whistles require a different amount of breath and this is more noticeable with low whistles. Is there a person close by that could give you a second opinion of this whistle?

There are several definitions of chiff and we do not know which one you are saying? Could you quote where you read about chiff so we would know better what you are hearing. Perhaps again it comes from your breath control?

Contact the Merlin whistle maker before you hack into this whistle. :thumbsup:

Hi, Italian Rover.

Here’s my tip.

I am in agreement with Tommy (that’s usually the case). I am not sure how long you have been playing the Merlin but I would not hack into the whistle head until I got a second opinion from another experienced player or talked to the whistle’s maker.

One thing to remember with whistles is that “it is all relative”. How much air a whistle requires is relative to our experience. If you come from a flute background then a whistle will likely use more air. If you come from a tuba background you may view the whistle’s air requirements relative to that experience. If you have played high D whistles and this is the first low D you have played then your experience may be relative to the high D. Your Merlin low D may be doing just what it is designed to do. Some makers like an airy sound, other do not. Some like free blowing whistles and other makers do not. It is all relative.

So I would suggest that you work with what you have got to play with for a little bit until you can get an opinion relative to another player’s experience.

And on that minor note … I encourage people to make their own whistles. It is a fun activity and you can learn a great deal about the instrument by making them yourself. But I usually add a provisos, a caution or things to consider before jumping into that. So here are my opinions. Take them for what they are worth.

First of all, every whistle made can play a minor scale. A low D whistle is tuned to the D major scale. It can also play the G major scale easily with one cross fingered or half holed note, C natural. The D major scale contains the same notes as the B minor scale. So we say that B minor is the “relative minor” to the D major scale. See, “it is all relative” once again. The E minor scale is the relative minor scale to the G major scale as it happens. So you can play two minor scales easily on your low D whistle - B minor and E minor.

I am not sure which Vivaldi minor you want to play. I am no Vivaldi expert. It seems the famous violin piece is played in A minor. You could transpose the A minor notes into the B minor key and play it on your low D whistle. No drilling or hack-sawing required. Of course you would have to examine the range of the notes in the Vivaldi piece to see how they sit on the low D whistle.

Alternatively, a low C whistle would play in A minor since A minor is the relative minor scale to the C major scale - same notes. You could make a low C tube for your low D whistle to accomplish that. It would need to be longer than your low D tube. You may want to consider making an entire low C whistle from scratch using the dimensions from Dr. Guido Gonzato’s website: http://www.ggwhistles.com/howto/index.html

Hold off on drilling into that carbon tube for a while. A first time whistle maker will almost never get the dimensions right the first time. We tend to make trash or what I prefer to call “artifacts of valuable experiments” at first. Buy some PVC pie of a similar diameter, identical diameter if at all possible. Then use a tone hole calculator to determine the sounding length and the positions for the tone-holes for you minor scale. Realize that it will not be perfect, perhaps not anywhere near perfect, the first try. The reasons for that have to do with how the calculators work and the variables they use for things like “end correction” as well as how they calculate the depth and area of the voicing window. You will likely have to make some adjustments. So make the first tube.

Always cut the sounding length a bit longer than calculated and then trim it down to get to the bell note pitch.

Assess the pitch by playing in a normal fashion just as you would when playing a tune. When most people blow a note against a tuner they will unconsciously adjust the air pressure to make the note register as being “in tune”. So try not to trick yourself.

Drill your holes a little smaller than calculated and then ream/file/etc them out to get the proper pitch.

Work from the bottom up. First the bell note, then the lowest hole, then tune the second from lowest holes, etc., etc.

Expect the upper second octave notes to be a little flat. It would take too many words to explain why here and to also explain the ways to address that. So work on the first tube and see how you do.

Analyse your first effort and make adjustments to the hole positions based on your findings. Drill a second tube based on your findings and assess the results. Drill a third tube if needed and so on. Once you have things right you can figure out what to do with that beautiful carbon tube.

Tone-hole calculator: Phill Van Leersum, who is a member here known as DrPhill, has provided a straightforward hole calculator for whistle makers called TWJCalc. You can find it here. http://twjcalc.sourceforge.net/2.10/TWJCalc2.10.html There is a lot of background to that work. You can search the archive here on this forum to read about that.

Hope that helps.

Feadoggie

Thank, as usual, for your kind partecipation. This is a real friendly community.

@Tommy
i purchased this Low d several years ago. I tried to play it for weeks, but without results. Unfortunately i haven’t people around that can test the whistle.
His chiff is like the Traditional Clarke one, maybe more accentuated and the sound is really too much airy. i wish a more “defined” sound. More, the bottom D is almost unplayable.

I play the pennywhistle without issues: i have some different pieces in my “collection”, from the crap to the Impempe (the best i own) and -despite the differences- i have fun playing all them without problems.

@Feadoggie
my goal is setting a LowD minor whistle for some "vivaldish"improvisations without cross-fingering. The examples i’ve posted before are almost perfect, played on the G#minor flute made by Erik. I love this kind of music as the sound of the LowD, so i thought an half-way…

I will follow your suggestions and i’ll look for a 25 millimeters pvc tube to experiment. The good thing about the Merlin is that i can change the tube without problems.

Make sure you find a nice tunnel to play in. :slight_smile:

Old churches are nice too. There are a few for sale around here it seems.

Best of luck.

While I’m usually among the first to suggest that the problem is often the player and not the instrument … I have definitely come across whistles that I would consider unplayable or let’s say less than optimal, even with every breath trick and embouchure trick at your disposal. And not just no-name whistles, but often lesser-known makers. I know nothing about Merlin, so I won’t even guess if that’s the case here. But the choice is either a tweak and a risk of making things worse, or simply biting the bullet and taking the loss, then opting instead for a known maker with a predictable product - Goldie, MK, Burke, Chieftain, etc. IMO.

well… i live in Rome. I can choose which of the 350 churches is the best for the sound i’m looking for… The nearest is about 40 meters far from me.
I will avoid the tunnels: here the traffic is huge, the drivers are serial killers and i don’t want to ruin the whistle. And my body :laughing:

Thanks, i’m not a good player and i’m not an absolute beginner, but trust me when i say that there is some defect in the mouthpiece considering the large bore 25od/23id millimeters.
Before, i’ve checked the Guido Gonzato website and downloaded his nice manual (in italian, of course).
I must say that the overall sound is potentially nice: deep, organ-ish, very mellow and full of overtones but the chiff (imo) waste the effect.

I have carefully disassembled the Merlin mouthpiece. Simple job. I cannot say that is poorly made.

First, there is a gap, an asimmetry, between the aluminium cap and the right side of the windway that makes the windway larger more than the 12 millimeters of the embochure. And the window is square and large: 12 millimeters wide and 12 millimeters long. (12 millimeters everywhere!!!) The lip is semi-circular. The lenght of the mouthpiece is 26 millimeters.
Second, the fipple edge is too sharp, and i think this should be the problem around the weakness of the bottom D. Guido gonzato says:“you may bevel the fipple block to make the bottom notes stronger. Do not exceed 1.5 - 2 mm for altos, 2 - 3 mm for lows.”

So, following the Guido’s indications i should

  1. Make the fipple less sharper to give strenght to the bass notes
  2. Try to reduce the width of the windway to make the sound less airy
  3. make the window a little longer to make the notes in the first octave more solid

Later i’ll work around the new tubes.
IMPORTANT QUESTION:
Offset holes, affect the tuning???


MANY HUGS!
HAPPY NEW YEAR

The fipple is the whole mouthpiece. Guido Gonzato’s talking about the edge of the block, but you’re talking about the edge that splits the air. In other words, don’t touch it on your assumptions so far!

IMPORTANT QUESTION:
Offset holes, affect the tuning???

No.

Sorry… my awful english… i was talking about the BLOCK. The end of the block is square(ly)

this is good

Many thanks, mate

Thanks for the plug. Do you think an android version would be popular?

Star Trek may have beat you to it!

:laughing:

I don’t suppose there would be a huge demand, but I would buy it.

Problem solved!!!
following the Guido Gonzato’s indications i’ve made some adjustments on the mouthpiece: the block was too long and too close to the lip, the window too short.

The block is now half millimeter shorter and a little beveled, so the first octave don’t flip to the second one so easily!
The window is now half millimeter longer, so the bottom notes are MUCH stronger, loud and warm: the bottom D remember me an organ and is more focused!
Then the holes are now grooved: is incredible! The feeling is drastically improved, but the strange matter is that the tone is really better: the second octave is less shrill, more round and mellow and the first more defined.
Is amazing, now i play another flute and i really love its tone.

Now i can work on my beautiful carbon tube: i will copy size and placement of the holes, but i’ll drill the bottom holes a little offset, for my comfort.
A.s.a.p. some pictures and sound samples

Regard, mates
Andre

WAIT! It doesn’t work like that. As you’ve found with the Merlin, small changes to the layout of the window or windway can significantly affect how the whistle plays. Before you start drilling in to your precious carbon tube, make the whistle head first, and follow this excellent advice:

Oh… sure! I’m waiting for some PVC pipes to experiment as suggested, for now i will ONLY rectify the size of the upper part of the carbon tube to slide it in the mouthpiece.
No No, i don’t want to ruin it!

I would second that, but add that the only whistle I’ve came across that was completely unplayable was a low D Merlin. From the looks of the picture somewhere in this thread it was of the same model too. As I recall it had a weird combo of a curved windway and a blade that was made for a flat windway I.E. not curved, so I didn’t even bother trying to tweak it. It would have taken some major surgery to correct that design flaw.

the tweaking i made seems works. The fipple needs some adjustment as described and de-assembling it is quite simple