Well, I’m just back after a week-long trad tour of the ‘west’. I visited Kerry (where my parents live, so that was handy…) Clare, and Sligo. Here’s my brief report.
Dingle
Took a drive out the Dingle peninsula, and for the first time actually got a decent view from the Connor Pass (the other times were ruined by mist or fog!). Ended up in Dingle town. It being a Monday night there wasn’t much in the line of sessions. Finally found a tourist-filled pub ‘The Small Bridge’ (or whatever the name is in Irish). Wasn’t so much an open session as a setup with mics, lights, and a mixing desk. But, they let my banjo-playing friend in on a few tunes and were friendly enough.
Consisted of a bodhran / guitar / 2 fiddles. The fiddler was also a pretty good flute player, and took out a susato C whistle for one of the reels.
Session came to an abrupt end at 11.30pm on the dot, just as we were getting into the swing of it - damn licensing laws!
Ennis
It was off to Ennis in Clare next. Stopped off at Custys in the afternoon. Bought that Micho Russell CD (the whistling ambassador I think it’s called) but when I checked it later it contained a blank plastic disc! - Must have been a production fault, Custys exchanged it for me no problem. They didn’t have any more of the Micho Russell ones in stock, so I picked up the Mary Bergin CD instead (the first Feadoga Stain one). Then it was off to Brogans for a few pints, and the ‘Town Hall’ restaurant for food. If anyone is visiting Ennis, I can seriously recommend the Town Hall, some of the best food I’ve ever had in Ireland (and I live here!)
So we progressed to finding a session, and ended up in Cruises. This was another one for the tourists. Consisted of 9 players (bodhran, 2 fiddles, concertina, button accordion, 2 flutes, guitar, banjo you get the idea) - Looked fairly open. But these guys were pro - you’d have to be a brave man to pull up a seat…! We decided to go across the road to Ciarans (opposite Custys) much smaller crowd, but a bit more relaxed. There were 2 fiddlers, and a flute player, and were quite happy for my banjo-playing friend to join in. Covered some great Clare-style jigs/reels. The clientele seemed fairly oblivious to the music, but we enjoyed ourselves.
Sligo
The second part of our road trip was a few days at the trad summer school in Ballaghadereen in Co. Sligo (we bypassed the Miltown Malbay festival thinking it would be too busy). We picked a lovely sunny day for the drive up from Kerry, and took in some of the scenery around Galway. We stayed at a motel in the town, which was adequate enough if you’re looking for somewhere to lay your head at night. For food there is ‘Durkins’ the main pub in the square. Does a lovely steak, and a decent wine selection, with good service.
The summer school consists of daily schools in the main instruments (bodhran, whistle, flute, banjo, singing etc.) and then sessions in the pubs in the afternoons, together with daily recitals, lectures, and concerts.
This was 4 days of hardcore intravenous trad. Now, I like trad a lot, but sitting in a session for 16 hours (no exaggeration) of continuous jigs, reels, and barndances does funny things to your brain. Still, it was enjoyable, as long as you remembered to take breaks for food and a few pints in the pubs that didn’t have sessions! - Actually, there was only one main pub that had sessions, called Spellmans, and another one that had a couple of sessions, Clarkes (nice small pub).
So, there you have it! - In case you’re wondering, my instrument is tin whistle. I wasn’t brave enough to take it out at the sessions, as I’m just a beginner with a handful of tunes. I did get a nice bit of practise in, but more importantly, did a lot of listening. It was great hearing and watching the different styles of playing. And we got some of it on MD for reference.
John.