As I recall, there was such a thing as synthetic reeds for single reed instruments, mass manufactured and thereby eliminating a great deal of reed making effort.
The key to getting Oboes to sound, your saliva must become one with the reed.
There was an Oboe player that went to the grocery store and remembered that he left his Oboe in the car unlocked. He immediately rushed out of the store back to his car to discover that someone have gotten into his car. Yep, now there are two Oboes in the car.
synthetic reeds - haven’t tried one recently but they were terrible.
What was not clear was whether the material was not suitable or whether the folks making them didn’t have a clue. You could only buy them completely made and they had been scraped to far to fix.
I once had a friend in the chemical industry, worked for DuPont at one point in her life,
told me that it’s well within reach of current tech to come up with synthetic raw material (all made from recycled materials) with the same vascular (cellular?) structure as cane, ebony, ivory, etc.: all the musical ‘stuff’. Problem is; funding outweighed profit last time they looked at it, and it was tabled.
I’m resting my mouth -practicing scales and intervals in thirds. That’s the most frustrating thing for me, that I want to keep practicing but the old mouth just can’t do but so much. I keep plugging away until it becomes a hopeless blob and I’m forced to quit for the night.
K&M
I wouldnt get the cheesy 2 piece plastic fold-up kind.
Get one that has a screw-on peg and four feet, if it’s in the budget.
knife? Doube hollow ground only. Vitry. Herder.
Rigotti beveled edge knifes are good for the rough stuff, (shaping, etc) but you’ll need a double hollow ground for everything impotrant. Ive found Vitry’s easyist to sharpen, (You’ll need a double india stone for that , btw)
well that depends…one can do the whole sad routine on a d.h.g. knife no problem, but ive found those bevel edge knifes make life easier for operations like easel work, removing cane bark, scoring cane, shaping, rough profiling, cutting the tip open, cutting string…then pick up the dhg to carve the actual lay with all its details, and the fine tuning, especially anything near the tip..
There’s more sharpening involved using only a dhg blade, and it wears down the knife a lot faster too.
Some people prefer bevels from start to finish…reeds i made doing it that way never seemed to last.