Hi everybody. The problem is with the D sharp key: the pivot pin wich holds the key in place is stuck. The flute had one more key wich also was stuck but I could take it off. Actually the key was glued because of a bad past restoration (It was a very bad restoration, I have just bought the flute) and I was able to take the glue of with a few drops of acetone. But the big problem is with the D sharp key. It does not seem to be glued the same way the other key was since the block have not been restored. I have tried to remove the pivot pin by pushing it at first but it didn’t work, so I used a few drops of oil to help it to came off but it doesn’t work. I am afraid I will have to cut part of the block off to be able to remove the pivot pin but before that I will like to know any other possible solution.
Hey Victor,
My condolences! 
I’ve removed stuck pins by using my drill-press. I tightly chuck up a pin-nail (with the tip slightly blunted) and fashion a bed on the support for the far side of the block. I then pad the face of this bed with a thick piece of leather (the offending pin can be driven into the leather a bit). I then carefully use the pinion gears of the drill to force the pin loose.
If the offending pin has an exposed tip, it may be heated with a soldering iron. Then it may be loosed when it cools.
I’ve also fashioned a pin driver out of a small C-clamp. Grinding the driver side of the clamp to a blunted point and padding the other jaw with an O made out of thick leather.
If none of the above work email Jon C! 
Good tips from Jordan/Sillydill. You shouldn’t need to cut away the block! No metal pin ought to get that stuck in a wooden hole! Sure, there is a risk you may split the block in the process of getting a recalcitrant pin out - in which case having to repair it is not a big problem, but better avoided if possible. I think letting your penetrating oil soak in and then using one of the suggested extra-strength push techniques ought to crack the problem, not the flute. If you decide to try heating the pin to break its adhesion to corrosion products in the hole and take advantage of it shrinking on cooling, probably the best way to heat it would be to apply the tip of a pointed electrical soldering iron to the end of the pin. I’ve never yet had a pin I couldn’t push out by hand, though I have a couple of times split top segments of blocks off in doing so - chiefly by being clumsy. Just make sure you use a pusher that is no wider than the pin/hole and keep it aligned correctly - no angle. Also, try to push from whichever end of the pin (I assume the ends are “lost” inside the hole?) appears flattest - trying to push on an obliquely cut end of a pin inside the hole could lead to the pusher running down the side of the pin instead of pushing it - and that would almost certainly split the block. Remember you don’t have to push it right through, just enough to be able to grip its end and carefully pull it out with pliers.
Best of luck! Let us know how it goes.
Finally I have removed the pivot pin using the soldering iron method it took me some time but it worked perfectly.
I have another problem now. The head had an old repaired crack wich opened again a few days ago, I think that because of a suddenly change in relative humidity (very windy days with very dry air the last few days.
I have tryed to remove the metal liner in order to repair the crack as I have done other times (with a hot iron rod) and this time it didn’t work. Is it possible that the slide is glued to the head with a glue wich is not afected by heat? I have used oil but it doesn’t work.