some unusual wood suggestions???

I am currently saving up for my first wooden flute and since I like some fun, it would be nice to have something in unusual wood for a flute.
Do you flautists/ makers have suggestions for OTHER types of wood which are suitable to make into a flute and which are available to flute makers (with resources if possible).

I have seen some woods on other sites used for other things and I liked the looks so here are some examples: snakewood, cocobolo, tulipwood, paduak, cocin rosewood, chakte vega
But open for other suggestions as well, as you can see I like warm looking woods with nice grains and flaming.
Any of these NOT suitable to make flutes out of? Reasons?
Anyone have ideas how the sound might be affected by wood type?

Maybe this will also help people get ideas for other woods than the standard types…

Berti

Check out this thread, I’m getting a Busman made of Macacauba:

http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php?t=19782

I have a cocobolo flute from Glenn Schultz that I’m absolutely crazy about. It has a nice warm sound and is without a doubt the prettiest piece of wood turning I’ve ever seen. I’m hoping it doesn’t darken too much more; it’s lost a lot of the really fiery red that it once had.

Many types of rosewood also make good flutes and can be very pretty too. Mopane is another.

That said, for me it’s still all about boxwood.

Dear Berti,
This is an interesting topic. Over the years I have tried a number of woods with various success. These days I am constrained from this exploration by the demands of my waiting list. Currently I can hand select my blackwood and mopane from my wood broker, and I am sitting on a very nice pile of French boxwood that has aged for 20 some years. These other woods, although interesting and in many cases lovely, just aren’t available to me reliably enough to offer them in my catalog.

In some cases I am able to get logs and then eventually mill them myself. I am able to do this with boxwood due in part to the relatively small size of the logs as well as its relative ease of machining. I used to mill larger logs on an old meat cutting bandsaw converted for this purpose - but I had a number of close calls and these days, prefer to keep all of my fingers and buy turning squares instead!

Here are some woods that I have tried:

Mountain Mahogany - this is still one of my favorite, and what I will probably resort to when I run out of this French boxwood, unless I or my wood broker can locate more. This tree grows in the northern Great Basin at higher elevations, and is a favorite for firewood in that region for its density, about the same as blackwood. The wood is as fine grained as boxwood, relatively stable if properly dried, and in moderately sized trees is a nice uniform color similar to aged or stained boxwood. In the apple family. I have tried other Rosacea including another Pacific Northwest native called Oregon Crab Apple, all with limited success compared with Mountain Mahogany.

Desert Ironwood - depending upon how it has been stored, Desert Ironwood remains one of the most superb woods for flute making in my opinion. There are a few wood suppliers offering it again, from Mexican trees as all of the trees in the US are protected. I’ve only been able to find this from retiring wood carvers who brought up several logs to work back in the 60’s and 70’s when it underwent a popularity boom, as an alternative to Red Cedar, who gave up almost immediately due to the hardness, but kept the wood aware of its value. If stored in an even environment, the wood is fine. However my current pile was stored in a hot garage - and is virtually useless - every flute attempted cracked! I am planning to investigate some of this recently cut material.

This wood is a lovely dark brown color with occasional gold streaks, not unlike aged Cocus. Very hard and heavier than blackwood. Smells like dirty socks when turning. Tonally it is one of the richest in terms of resonance and quickness of sound.

Olive - another favorite of mine. When turned, it makes the entire workshop smell wonderfully! Considerably lighter than boxwood - however, if kept oiled it makes for a fine instrument with a warm reedy tone, if somewhat weak. I was fortunate to get some from a fellow wood turner in California, who rescued the wood from a large tree cut down at the University of California at Chico campus to make way for a new building - this turned out to be the largest Olive in California, and planted by Spanish missionaries! Ooops! All of the wood from this tree was fiddleback and incredibly lovely.

Pistacio - The same friend has some of this from local orchards down there. This is another wood worthy of investigation - once dried. Tonally it is excellent, being somewhat more strident than boxwood, but with the same quickness of tone. It ranges in colors from a brownish green to oranges and reds, sometimes in the same piece.

There are other woods I have tried - our local Madrona, Manzanita, Lilac, Almond, etc. as well as a few like Mesquite. None of these have been very suitable either tonally or stability-wise.

Casey Burns

www.caseyburnsflutes.com

I have a recorder in plumwood (see http://www.blezinger.de/eng/c_i_pflaume.htm for a short discription and a picture) which I like very much. I haven’t seen it used for wooden flutes so far, though.

Sonja

Purpleheart is an interesting wood used in instruments sometimes but i have never seen it for flutes. :slight_smile: yet any way

Do you consider bones instruments?

Red Lancewood, some of the Australian Acasias used by Terry McGee (McGee has info and pictures on both these woods on his site). Also I’ve seen Bubinga wood and it looks astonishingly beautiful. I think there is an all wood Bubinga flute in the Flute Porn thread. I haven’t tried any of these woods in a flute myself, these are just other options.

Now you’ve done it!
Once you get into the type of wood, you’re hooked forever!

I was in this mode many years ago with fifes. I had come to know the man who at the time was making the McDonagh fifes, Mr. Larry Trout.

At fife/drum gatherings, called “musters,” everyone had a thing for wearing a different/odd type of hat. I thought, why not have a different type of fife? So, I had a boxwood fife made by Roy Seaman (the original maker of the McDonagh fife), but Larry and I wanted to try other woods.

So…at home I still have fifes made of:
Ebony (too stiff)
Rosewood (too much vibration)
Jamaican Cocus (very sweet)
Cuban Cocus (sweeter still)
Cocabola (very oily, but terrific look)
Paduck, or padouk (very orange, a GREAT player!)
Osage (yuk)
Zebra (a beauty, but a crappy player…too porous, doesn’t oil well)…and we made this as a 9-hole fife (Model Z, we stamped it!)
Bubinga (yes…i know…but terrific looker)
Mahogany (yuk)
Teak (exterior only…great club)

The only suitable wood on all these fifes, which I chose merely for looks, was the Padouk wood. It still plays very very nicely.
Needless to say, they are all on a wall mount rack for decoration now.

DM

Dave, tell me more about the Osage, yuk to look at? or play?
I think it has a great potential, it naturally is oily, and extremely durable, very dense, and it darkens to deep brown.

It is interesting that Mr Burns talks of Frenck boxwood .Can he , and does he distinguish this from English boxwood ?

French boxwood has a certain…je ne sais quoi!

ne rien sais quoi

Hi Burtie, 5 years ago I got 21 billits of cocobolo. They are about 5 cm. X 5 cm. x 60 cm. I sent 4 to Michael Cronnolly (of M&E flutes). Right now Johnnie Gallagher has all 17 at his shop in Elkins WV. He will sort through them to pick one to make me an R&R, 6 key job.
If you are Natherlandish, I would suggest that you go over to County Mayo, Ireland, and look at one of Michael’s cocobolo flutes made from my billits as well some flutes in F made from cocobolo from India. If you like it, I can send two to the flute maker you choose. My flute will be done (probably) by the end of July and I can post a picture. The stuff is so heavy, I think the 4 billits I sent to Michael Cronnolly in Ireland from West Virginia cost me $50 postage. The stuff is heavier than water. So 5x5x60=1500 cc or grams, i.e. 1.5 kilograms each. 4 of them was 6 kilograms, no wonder it was $50. Maybe it was $25, I forget. My cocobolo was from the west coast of Mexico. The billits were cut for pool ques, pool sharks like cocobolo because it stays absolutely straight and slick, so they say. If you do decide on cocobolo, be sure and check if you are alergic, I’ll send you a tooth pick.

Anyhow, a flute is a big investment and you are close to County Mayo, Ireland, right?. Michael makes his own whiskey, but it is not worth going over there for, so I have been told.

Nelson

French boxwood strolls along the Boulevard,
a flower in its lapel.
It likes to eat, it likes to drink,
it likes to…heh, heh, heh!

I’ve always read and been told that French boxwood grows into much larger logs because Buxus sempervirens does better in the French climate than in the English. I don’t think it’s uncommon in the timber world for timbers that grow in various climates to be of different qualities even though they’re the same species.

It’s like the Jamaican vs. Cuban cocus question. They too are the same species of boxwood, but the timber seems to grow significantly differently depending on which island it finds itself. Supposedly Hispaniola also grew nice cocus, but I don’t think there’s any left in the D.R. and who knows about Haïti.

Stuart

Berti - what maker are you going with? that is kind of more important than the choice of timber.
my wood of choice is Cooktown Ironwood.

I won’t speak for Mr. Burns, but many others certainly do make such a distinction. It is not uncommon for wood dealers, let alone instrument makers, to distinguish between woods of the same species grown in different localities under different conditions.

French boxwood, particularly that from higher altitudes (when it is carefully selected and well seasoned), may preferred by some as quite distinct from English boxwood. The beast grows more slowly at dry, high altitudes than in wetter, lower, milder climates. This results in significant and meaningful (to woodwokers and instrument makers) differences between the two.

Further, some boxwoods sold by wood dealers may not even be of the same species.

By way of analogy, a syrah grape grown on one bank of the Rhone will have slightly different characteristics than a syrah of the same rootstock grown on the opposite bank or in the next village, or cultivated slightly differently–let alone a shiraz (née syrah) which is grown in Australia.

I grant that the skill and experience of the wine/flute maker may captialize upon the differences or obliterate them.

Moi, il-y-a des differences importants, et des characteristiques exceptionelles. Je ne sais plus!

An interesting site:

http://boisbuis.lepetitluthier.org/accueil.htm

I was just in Salzburg and went to the world instruments music shop there. The guy had some amazing flutes he let me play and one of them happened to be made by the Irishmen Martin Doyle. Apparently, Doyle has experimented with native New Zealand woods and had great success. I played one and was absolutely amazed at the earthy and strong tone. If you want a very different wood I would suggest looking Doyle up, I think you will be impressed.

I didn’t like the osage fife because it was just too dry a cut. An oily wood, yes, but this one must not have been a good billet.
The tone just wasn’t as crisp as the padouk is.
As I said, perhaps it was just a bad billet.
I’m no wood expert!

dm