Sharp E's in two octaves...

To make a long, unbelieveable and interesting short, boring and suspenseful, I recently have become the happy owner of a Seth Gallagher D chanter (like, as of Tuesday night).

It didn’t have a reed at the time I picked it up, and so I proceeded to make one for it. It seems to be playing fairly well in tune etc. with little difficulty. However, I’m having a problem with both E’s being sharp by about 40-50 cents. The rest of the octaves sound good and in tune.

Now I know that Seth’s D chanters sometimes have a squirrely E note - particularly a growl in the second octave. But this is my own reed, so I gotta take full credit for any strengths or weaknesses I’ve scraped into it. The E notes are strong and don’t have any hint of growl or warble to them in either octave. I’m wondering if I did something in the scrape to exasperate this situation.

I tend to use a moderate to hard cane (Seth supplied the last batch to me actually) and like a scrape with a fairly rounded end - I’d call it about halfway to 3/4 of the way towards a “U” from a “V” shape. Make sense? The staple is made per Seth’s specs.

Is this one of those instances where a roll of paper or card in the chanter between the F# and E holes would help things? Or something? :confused:

Curious as to the general consnsus of the board. Thanks guys.

Best!

Brian~

P.S. Brian C. Now I can tell you I’ve reeded a Gallagher D chanter. :wink:

Give it a try. Also, what size former for sanding are you using? try a 78 - 82mm diam and narrow the staple eye to help growly Es?

Alan

Congrats on both the practice set (she’s beautiful) and the reed you made for it. :slight_smile:

Brian,

I’ll send you some Blue-Tac.

Properly applied, (filling in about 1/4 of the hole at the bottom) this should to the trick. If you’re embarrased about bit of blue being seen when your finger isn’t lying across the chanter, then use a black ‘Sharpie’ and color over it. It’ll look fine, sound fine, be fine.

PS: Don’t eat any of the Blue-Tac. Unlike Play-Doh, it doesn’t taste as good.

Hi Alan,
Used a 70mm former for the inside of the slips. Works fairly well as anything much smaller, and the reed has collapsed before I can even fit a bridle to it. I used the staple eye of 0.06" as Seth suggests and I’m not getting a growl at all - just really sharp on that one note, and in both octaves. I’ve taped it and brought it down about 20 cents, but taping anymore and I might as well just tape over the hole completely. :slight_smile:

Joe,
Thanks. I was immediately struck by the figuring in the ebony of this particular chanter. I’ve seen and played a fair amount of Seth’s and NEVER seen one that looked as striking as this. I think I’ll keep it. :wink:

Hey Bri, don’t bother with the Blu Tac unless it’s the good kind - you know…with the lead paint chips built right in! I mean, what’s the fun of ‘not eating’ it if you can’t hallucinate a bit during?! :slight_smile:

I’ve actually got some here I can try too. And you say to fill the BOTTOM of the hole? Wouldn’t thant tend to sharpen things a touch instead of flatening?

…I hope that you do, BUT, if you decide to give it away, I got dibs. :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: OK? OK!

I’ve had tape on top, and blue-tac in the bottom, and both worked well.

(The tape was during ‘play-in’ period, the blue-tac a bit more long-lasting with_out_ the residue).

I’ll give the card trick a try first as it seems like it will be the easiest to remove…and go from there. :slight_smile:

Hi Brian,

Congratulations! That’s a beautiful chanter.
My old reeds did the same thing when I put them in my Gallagher chanter. I have been making new reeds to Seth’s specs that work better. We Western Gallagher-ites should get together for a reedmaking party soon!

-Dirk

was immediately struck by the figuring in the ebony of this particular chanter

Probably African Blackwood, not ebony. It does look very nice, but all the ebony I have ever seen is pitch black, with no visible grain or figuring. Whereas “blackwood” is usually more interesting in terms of grain and patterns.

And I use black femo or sculpy or some other such modeling clay to partially fill in holes when needed for tuning; it is virtually invisible on the chanter, and stiff enough to shape well and stay put for months at a time.

Enjoy the new chanter!

Seth says he hasn’t used Balckwood in ages. I’ve seen a few pieces of ebony that indeed had brown streaks - usually Gaboon Ebony as I recall, but it’s not uncommon.

Dirk, let’s DO it! Our next tionól for the Salt Lake Piping Club will be sometime in late February. Think you’d be up for a drive? You can stay with me if needs be. :slight_smile: I have beer.

Nope..that stick is definately ebony.

Instead of blue tack, try some wax from the outside of a round of cheese. the stuff is great. I much prefer it over blue tack…I’ve found blue tack tends to fall off and is tough to get just the right amount etc.

Davey’s right about cheesewax. I recommend the sort of cheese that has a black wax covering. I’ve got some red cheesewax in the E hole and it looks like a bit of very fresh hamburger. Ew.

MMM,

I think I’ll stop at the cheese shop and buy a wheel of nice cheese - with black wax… Also, for some reason, I’m thirsty for beer. Did somebody mention beer?

Also, Brian we are hosting a tionol or two here as well. Maybe I can arrange a drive out there, or maybe you could make it out here? Let’s chat off-forum.

Note to self:

Pick up some gouda cheese on the way home…

:wink:

Exactly what I was thinking! :laughing: I’ll keep the red stuff I have just in case there’s a qualitative difference between black and red cheesewaxes.

Black wax on cheese?

Something about that just doesn’t seem right…

… do you remember the name of it? Limburger, maybe? P… U…

I know I’ve seen it. Maybe it was smoked Gouda or Edam, or something else, but it’s out there. I think.

Anyway, I’m stocking up on provisions after work, and I’ll be lurking in the cheese section for sure.

Here you go…

http://www.cheesesupply.com/product_info.php/products_id/330

You could get enough for all of us! :laughing:

PD.