Reedmaking Tips

I made a couple of reeds this morning, and got to thinking that a very useful service this forum could provide to the world would be a topic that featured little bits of reedmaking advice, stuff that hasn’t made into the reedmaking books. There are people who read these posts who are very good at the bizness, it would be fantastic to pool their advice. Dale could make it a “Sticky” (ewww) topic, one which appears at the top of every page and doesn’t vanish into the archive dispora like everything else we type out here. Some of this will be regurgitated from earlier posts, of course.

The importance of having a good reed to play is far more important than many people realize, I think. Trying to cope with a bad reed is like trying to play the fiddle with a concrete bow.

Here are some starters from mine own desk:

1) When rolling a staple, if the seam gets a bit crooked, I grab one end with a round-nose jewler’s pliers, and twist the other end with a standard type pliers. This gets the seam back on track every time.
2) I use short nibbling cuts with the tinsnips when cutting a bridle out of copper sheet; this helps to keep the width constant.

3) I fold the bridle blank over with the pliers, and see if half of it covers the reed; if it’s a bit too long I shorten it a tad with the snips. For clarity’s sake, call this the right side of the bridle. Then I fold the other half over on the other side, by hand, and bend the rest of the blank over in the middle. Then I fold that part, the left side, back, and cut off the bit in the middle, so the bridle is now the right size/shape/length. Then I fold the left side back to the middle, with the pliers this time - now it forms the correct angle at both sides. Voila, perfect bridles every time.

4) I trim reeds with a sewing scissors. Never had one split on the edges or anything, unless I’d had too many brewtowskis that night.
5) After trimming a reed, sand the inside of the reed with some fine grit (600+) sandpaper, to remove the burrs. I keep a little bit of sandpaper shaped like a pistol or the state of Oklahoma for this purpose.

6) Burnish the inside of a reed with the outside of a piece of cane or a sanding block or the like. Sean Folsom told me about this, he learned it from Ted Furey (father of Finbar and company), it was something the old pipers did, to help the reed settle down more gently.

7) My latest scraping knife is 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a wine bottle cork. I have to see what’s happening, I’m a disaster with knives, although I still use an Opinel knife to carve the scrape into the correct shape.

8 For the lips of the reed I wrap some 220 grit paper around a flat metal Starret ruler, to insure that they have that nice crescent moon shape. Again, I like to see what I’m doing.

OK, next! And as Geoff Wooff said, get off the Internet and start practicing.

Good post Kev. Maybe you could post the result of your creations on the “Picture of Your Reeds” thread. I learn a lot just by looking at reeds. One can tell a lot, but not everything. And I think that a picture at least can answer a lot of the basic questions.

Kevin, another possible way to bring your information forward would be to post your methods on your own web site. That way you could take as much time and space as you like, and could update it whenever.

Please include pictures. I for one have difficulty with purely verbal descriptions of these processes, so I don’t usually try to apply the methods described (yes, I’m a shallow, visually-oriented person).

Other people have done the same (personal web page) for their reed making techniques. C&F could be involved by having a list of reed-making links, but I think Uilleann Obsession might be better suited for this.

djm

Kevin,

Great information!

No E

PS- someone set you up the bomb

I own no camera. I have no truck with such satanic contraptions.
How about a daguerrotype?

(that was all BS) Actually I’m waiting for the price of digital cameras to come down just a wee bit more, and then I’ll post some pics of pipes, reeds, my coffin-shaped pipe case, the foot-wide mole on my stomach, etc.

The reason for having this info here is that I don’t want to monkey around forever with websites. Making Brad’s was irritating enough, and I used a program that took practically all the effort out. It was still a chore.
Perhaps one of you techie types could be a host? Ewwwww, sounds like an intestinal parasite.

You have a foot-wide mole? Really? Gosh, a Bb set and a foot-wide mole. :boggle:

djm

Kevin,
There are discount commercial webhosts available for less than $100 a year.

In addition to pictures of the reed’s outer appearance, shots of the inside of reed blades would be most nifty…ie tone chamber, gouge pattern etc.

Joseph, didn’t Evertjan already do this? (can’t find the link, now)

djm

http://www.hartdd.com/reed/

The old website:
http://home.wxs.nl/~ejthart/Reed/reed.html

Tony, thanks. That’s the site, but I’m sure there was a cut-away graphic in there as well. I suppose we’ll see it when the site is completed.

djm

This is a great idea. It should result in the post of things that one would not find on sites that others have referenced. This is the congregation. How many of you who “come to the meetin’” here would look at something posted in this thread yet not likely go look at a website off somewhere else for reed info. Probably several of you folks. The lore belongs here.

I value Kevin’s input, and the input of many more of you as well. In fact, I know a little more about cutting my bridles as a result of Kevin’s post. This thing needs to take shape. I like the idea of a sticky post on top of the rest on the UP forum front page. Somebody with computer smarts should make it happen.

And, based on my views of the other thread, I’ve changed my mind about pictures of the reeds. (I am free to do that without it being labeled as hypocrisy). Preacher Lorenzo has made me a change man with regards to my attitudes on the matter. we ought to have reeds photos in the thread as well.

I’ll add one of my observations…

I’ve noted a characteristic of chanter reeds made by others, and myself of course, that seems to be associated with a high likelihood of playability or at least adjustability to reach a level of playability. In fact, if I cannot obtain this effect on a reed, I know that it will not play according to my demands and preferences. Basically, I aspirate air thru the reed, first at low pressure without sounding it and then at an increasing pressure until it sounds. If the reed gets funky and breaks or gargles in a harsh mechanical sounding way and I can maintain this sound by constant negative pressure pulling air thru the reed, a pressure that seems to be just below the full crow, then I know it is a good reed and ready to pop in a chanter for a trial run.

The pictures on these two sites look remarkably similar.

Are they good friends, or is someone doing a naughty? :angry:

http://home.planet.nl/~HartDD/Reed/reed7.html

http://www.geocities.com/uilleann_pipe_reeds/scraping.htm

Mukade

Many thanks to Evertjan… this is ‘thee’ most impressive display of reed construction.

From this link:
http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php?t=19729&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=73e5d94cb19a6be6fb47210283b3448d

Pictures of reeds are great and all, but you still have to make the godforsaken things. I’m much more interested in the methods used, and cures for problems, etc.

Here’s two more tips:

  1. The hand drill I use comes loose easily; I wrap a bit of string on the threads to keep the mandrel clamped tight, so it doesn’t come loose halfway through winding.

  2. Regarding what Lewis is getting at - when making reeds, I draw initially purely using the air in my mouth, which has much stronger pressure, to see if a reed is beginning to sound at all. If I can sound a nice crow using the air in my lungs, which is much weaker, then it’s a good sign that the reed will be playable. Maybe this will depend on the person, I’m not sure.

How about a page with a bunch of links to discussions on this forum involving reedmaking? They don’t necessarily have eye-catching topics, you know - I didn’t even look at that yak about narrow bore (D?) chanters until today. My mind’s made up about them - they rock. It’s like a flat chanter, only, you know, in D. What could be cooler? Dude.

I figured it would be just 8 pages of Royce’s froth, which seems to be the case, but you’re also gabbing about bridles and the like. Howzabout one of you devotees hunting down that kind of stuff and linking it all up? Maybe making an anthology page of some kind. A valid long-term resource out of all of this would be great, don’t you think? A year from now if someone wants to learn something about bridles and does a search here, they’re going to completely pass over that post - and you will have left him in the lurch, in a sense.

A naughty…

:swear: :swear: Harummph! :swear: :swear:

Anyway, nice site Evertjan. The new one is looking even better.

I am just starting out with reed-making, so I am pleased to have such a lot of good sources.

Mukade

djm wrote:“Joseph, didn’t Evertjan already do this? (can’t find the link, now)”

Why, yes, yes he did… and I thought them great cut away photos of the reed. But I was thinking of something other than a profile shot…something that would show the inside surface of the reed.

Kevin L.R. wrote:"1) The hand drill I use comes loose easily; I wrap a bit of string on the threads to keep the mandrel clamped tight, so it doesn’t come loose halfway through winding. "

A technique I am not certain I could be comfortable with…being mostly thumbs and all. For me, having my fingers on the reed at all times while tying allows me to more accurately judge the tension of the tie. Still, I may give it a try someday, once I exorcise the dinosaur mentality I currently possess.

Mighty reed pics Evertjan!! Have you tried this with a crap reed to note any difference of the internal shape?? (Given that obviously it’s not a true reflection as the reed, as tension is missing).

Alan