Our trip to Ireland

So, I got married in May, and we booked a trip to Ireland for our honeymoon. We got back about 10 hours ago..here’s the first day’s pictures! :slight_smile:

We flew out from DFW to New York. The weather was nice and the clouds were big and fluffy.

Here we are, landing in New York. New York was a big disappointment, and not a good start to the honeymoon, let me tell you. We exited the aircraft directly onto the tarmac (rather than taking a concourse to the gates). Some of us have been forced to check our carry-on baggage because the plane was full, and we were supposed to collect it here, on the tarmac, before entering the airport. Delta calls this “valet baggage check” or some such. We were waiting for our bags with about a dozen other people for about 5 seconds tops when some chick from Delta starts screaming at us: “You can’t stand here! You need to move! Come on! Come on! Move move move!” She was totally rude. We ignored her, waited for our bags, got them, and entered the airport.

We entered Terminal 2, which was hot and crowded. We decided to stop at an airport restaurant and grab a bite to eat. We waited over an hour for service. We got some nachos, a hot dog, a hamburger, and a couple of beers.

Now, granted the hot dog was listed as a “kobe beef hot dog”, the burger did have a grilled pepper speared on top, and the fries had fried rosemary and parmasean cheese, but we really were a bit shocked by the bill.

Not counting souvenir purchases, this is about what we spent in Ireland every day, for a couple of meals each, appetizers, and a couple rounds of beer at each meal. We should have saved the money in New York and eaten at Wendy’s :slight_smile:
Notice the time the check was printed: 4:05pm. We landed at 1:08pm and almost immediately ate since we got up at 6am and skipped breakfast on the way out to the airport. Yeah, we weren’t that impressed with JFK. After our terrible experience here, we decide to just nap/rest in the airport lounges and not venture out into the city itself.

Yay, we’re back on the plane, this time heading over the Atlantic to Shannon, Ireland. Happy to have JFK behind us :slight_smile: The flight was like 6 hours long, and we tried to sleep during most of it.

Sunrise occurred over Shannon as we neared our arrival.

Landing at Shannon Airport. Even on the approach, the countryside was simply awe-inspiring. This really helped set the mood for our week in Ireland! Pictures really don’t do justice to how beautiful it was to fly over this gorgeous country.

This is the drive to our rental cottage. We didn’t get many pictures, because it was my first day driving on the left side of the road and it was absolutely terrifying. In Ireland, evidently the center divider lane (when you have one!) is merely a suggestion, and we were almost run off the road several times by tour buses and other large vehicles that just didn’t fit in one lane. These pictures were during the more sedate parts of the drive where we weren’t screaming in terror. :slight_smile:

Ireland’s major highways have a roundabout system rather than the exit ramp system I’m used to. I’ve heard horror stories about driving the roundabouts, but I really loved them. They made switching between highways really simple, and if you missed your exit, you just go around again and catch it the next time. The highways were nice and big, and easy to drive, but it was once we got on N67 that the terror began. It didn’t help that we got lost by taking a wrong turn at Ennistimon. We went through Lahinch, Miltown Malbay, and Cregg before realizing that we were going the wrong way.

Our landlady called N67 the “corkscrew road up the coast” which is a really good description of it. We went for nearly an hour on it in the wrong direction, and it was where most of our terror occurred. At one point we got behind a tractor moving about 5 mph, and my wife absolutely refused to let me pass it so that we could calm down and start again. It probably didn’t help that I was hugging the left side of the road the entire time because I wasn’t used to the steering wheel being in what would be the passenger seat in the USA. Shifting with the wrong hand wasn’t that big of a deal, surprisingly.

Eventually, we got turned around, went back up the road and went around the Cliffs of Moher looking for Lisdoonvarna. We somehow went in a big circle and so we stopped at the Stonecutter’s Kitchen restaurant to call our landlady since we had seen it twice already in our travels. The Luck of the Irish was with us, as the restaurant was directly next to the Clare Jam Shop Road, which led to our cottage–so named because it was the road that had the jam shop on it, naturally.

So we made it to the cottage! The yard was full of cows. Our landlords didn’t own these cows. They rented them, in order to keep the grass down. We thought that it was kind of strange you could even rent cows for that purpose!

The last picture is a shot from our kitchen out the window. Past the cow, a few hundred yards away, is the ocean! And beyond that is Inis Oirr, the smallest of the Aran Islands. This is basically the same view we had from the master bedroom. Nice! I’ve lived in Houston, and spent a lot of time in Galveston. I was expecting that, being so close to the ocean, that it would smell like salt, seaweed, and slightly fishy. The air here smelled nothing like that! It was clean, crisp and lovely.

While the cottage was ‘modern’, many of the buildings around it weren’t. Behind our cottage were some sheds for laundry, rubbish, etc, and most of these were built out of stone, which was really neat. In the yard next door was the remains of a stone house, and all that was left was the corner of the building, completely built out of stone. We found this kind of thing all over Ireland: Ruins and other remains of buildings from times long gone.

After gathering up our courage, we went further down the Jam Shop Road and into Doolin. We had a couple of pints at O’Connor’s pub, along with fish and chips and fried brie. Yum! This picture is taken from across the street at a picnic table. At every pub we ate at, there was outdoor seating off the premises where you could take your food and beer. This was nifty because in the US, naturally, all alcohol has to stay on premises. From where we were standing, if you did a 180 degree turn, all you saw was raw Irish countryside:

These are two pictures of the stream you could see from the picnic table across the street from the pub. After eating, we decided that after traveling all day, we were ready to call it a day.

About 3/4 of a mile from our cottage was Doonagore Castle, between our cottage and Doolin. This castle is now a private residence, so we couldn’t get up close to take pictures or go inside. But we stopped on the road to take a couple of pictures.

From the back yard, you can also see Crab Island, which is a very small bit of land just off of the Irish coast near the Aran Islands. The sun was just beginning to set as we took these pictures. It was around 10:00pm local time.

Happy to be here!

Our first Irish sunset

While the cottage was ‘modern’, many of the buildings around it weren’t.

Most of these houses hide a stone structure behind their plaster, even the relatively modern seeming. Stone was often quarried on site and Luogh has good stone. Or so I have been told anyway.


I have a picture of that same set of ruins. It was right next door to where I was staying. :slight_smile:
The house I stayed at was of modern, new construction, though many of the outlying buildings on the property were of stone. The landlady mentioned that she’d had the cottage built in the modern style specifically for tourism. But we saw a lot of stone buildings that had been plastered, especially on Inis Oirr.

I dug up a couple of my pics of that ruined cottage. It was literally a couple minutes walk up the Clare jam shop road. On some parts of it, the old plastering still existed, but I’m not sure I got any pictures of that.

You really should have walked on that half a mile or so with that whistle for some added value. :poke:

Congratulations on your wedding and honeymoon trip. We have something in common. My wife and I were married in May three years ago. We also went to Ireland on our honeymoon, only I didn’t want to drive a car on the left side of the road, so we took a tour and let the professional driver worry about traffic. Thanks for sharing your photos. I agree that JFK airport is the pitts.

We walked by that house, but it was pretty far away, and we didn’t see a way to get to it without jumping some fences. I took a few pictures from afar.

A little further up was Doonagore castle, which is a private residence. We got some pics from afar of that as well. It was a really neat road to have our cottage on.

Neat! I didn’t really feel confident on the road until about the third day. Even then, I wasn’t exactly an expert even until the end. Even so, by the 4th day or so we could easily spot the ‘newbies’ and chuckle to ourselves. :slight_smile:

The other one below it is actually the Russell one. They’ve started doing it up. During The eighties Gussie was trying to make his way into the tourist trade and tried to rent it out. There was a little sign up : ‘House to let. Strong building’.

[edit: I actually have a sort of an image for that]





The Russells built a new house during the sixties, on the main road, just around the corner above Doonagore castle. That’s empty now too but it was sold a few years ago.

Did you go look for ‘The Piper’s Chair’ at all? Very comfy rock seat to sit and play for the cows and horses while watching out over the ocean. They used to have dances in that field, or that’s what Micho said anyway.

The man who restored the castle is usually referred to as ‘an American Cigar Tycoon’. He died some years ago, I have never actually seen anyone at the castle so it wouldn’t really be a problem to have a look.

You were staying less than a mile away from Davy Spillane, also in the townland of Luogh. Didn’t buy a whistle then?

That piper’s chair sounds lovely :slight_smile: I wish I had known about it.

I did find a set of stones like a chair on Inis Oirr. But it was facing a pub, and not the ocean.

I did buy a couple whistles, but not a Spillane…I got a Clarke and Feadog. The music store in Doolin had Clarkes, Feadogs, Waltons (and of course the Guinness brand), Dixons and Susatos. I wanted to get an old Clarke like the kind I started on, and I don’t have any Feadogs any more, so I thought I’d get one too. Just because, you know :slight_smile: Didn’t know I was so close to Davy. It would’ve been neat to have seen him around!

When we were checking out our landlady said that she was coming from a house up the road that belonged to Micho Russel’s daughter (? I don’t remember for sure the exact relation) where they were having a Saturday morning Mass. She knew I played tinwhistle, and I had played a tune or two for her husband, so she assumed I’d know who he was, which was nice :slight_smile:

We flew Delta to JFK in May, on our way to Poland. I believe we may have traded words with the very same young lady of which you speak. A real charmer. :really:

We were pleased to arrive home via Philly.

Surely you know the tune ‘The Piper’s Chair’ which was named for it. Micho played it a lot. There’s a fine photo in Jill Freedman’s book of Micho sitting in the chair playing.

The Piper’s Chair isn’t all that easy to find if you don’t roughly know where it is but there’s a big chasm in the rock near it, Poll na nGall or the Hole of the Strangers, where sheriff Boetius Clancy had the survivors of one of the Armada ships thrown in all those years ago. The rock is about a quarter of a mile North from there.

And it surprises me each time how comfortable it is to sit in. Because, surely, it doesn’t look it.

So tell us more, there must be interesting stuff you’ve seen and done.

Well, we took a ton of pictures of course, which I still need to sort through. It was a pretty amazing trip. :slight_smile:

We didn’t go much outside of the Doolin area as we mostly wanted a relaxing trip and we didn’t want be rushing all over the place to do the “must see!” touristy stuff. We did book a ferry to Inis Oirr, and took an hour cruise around the base of the Cliffs of Moher on the way back. Inis Oirr was really interesting! I really felt like I’d stepped back in time a little bit to a simpler life as the horse-drawn-carriage rider took us around the island and explained about the island’s one primary and one secondary school (“with about 35 students”), and showed us the shipwreck of the Plassey and explained how the 12 sailors there were saved. We asked about all of the rock walls in Inis Oirr, and the driver showed us a granite-covered field and explained that at one time the whole island looked like that, but that over time people had pulled up the rocks, made the walls with them, and brought in seaweed and sand to make the lush fields that covered most of the island. It was an awesome story of human willpower, and how hard the people have had to work to turn the island into a livable habitat.

We did drive up N67 northwards a few hours one day, stopping to see ruins and churches and the like, but that wasn’t what we wanted to do every day. We ended up stopping at Dunguire castle in Kinvarra, taking the little tour, and exploring. I think it took us over 3 hours to get there with all of the stopping we did along the way, but it was great fun. We spent a day at the Cliffs of Moher and O’Brien’s castle, but I think those were the most ‘touristy’ things we did.

I managed to play a bit at McDermott’s near the end of the trip, after failing a couple of times to play at O’Connor’s due to the crowds. The musicians and the crowd were very welcoming, and I knew probably a third of the tunes that the group played that night. I wished I’d tried to play at McDermott’s sooner, as it really was an awesome experience.

You’d really want to stay on Moher to make it worth the fee. Robbers they are.

It’s a nice walk along the Cliffs from where you were staying, even nicer to start at Hag’s Head and walk back to Doolin, takes about three hours and it’s all in the flat or downhill (and close to the edge), you see more and it doesn’t cost anything.

But you took the right attitude, it’s best to scratch the surface and get the feel for a small area. Going round like mad to see a little bit of everything but actually only seeing a cardboard cut out isn’t much fun or use.

Cornelius O Brien built the tower as a place to have tea with his guests, it’s not a castle. His ‘big house’ (what’s left of it) is below in Liscannor and his grave is outside St Bridget’s Well cemetery (did you go see the Holy Well? There are nice tunes on thursdays in Murphy’s next to it). The pillar on it is still called Corney O Brien’s last erection. He had a bit of a reputation.

Aye, that’s Ireland all right. I recognised it straight away.

The surfing is better in Sligo. But the colors look familar, greenish like.

But the colors look familar, greenish like.

Except, of course, where they aren’t.

Guess what I found when YouTube trawling :smiling_imp:
The Banshee
Cat’s Meow
Dusty Windowsills
Merry Blacksmith
Fraher’s jig
David

stalker :laughing:

Cool! Did they perhaps call Banshee “McMahon’s Reel”?
I’ve seen that name thrown around.

I like the speed of Merry Blacksmith. Very relaxed and
swingy.

Only when you start playing UP :stuck_out_tongue:

David

I spent about 3 or 4 weeks playing with a David Daye penny chanter set…there are some videos on my youtube profile. but eventually, I had to give it back to the owner. I’d probably really enjoy having one for myself, though.

Every tune they started, they played that way, which is a bit slower than I’m used to from playing in my current group. I’m absolutely sure there’s a good lesson to be had there.