# new flutes... old flutes.... **URL:** \ **Category:** Irish Flute\ **Created:** [March 1, 2009, 3:55am UTC](https://www.chiffandfipple.com/t/new-flutes-old-flutes/62693 "2009-03-01T03:55:38Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Showing post:** 32
**Author:** ![dcopley](https://chiffandfipplewww.b-cdn.net/user_avatar/www.chiffandfipple.com/dcopley/32/92_2.png) [@dcopley](https://www.chiffandfipple.com/u/dcopley)\ **Post date:** [March 4, 2009, 7:40pm UTC](https://www.chiffandfipple.com/t/new-flutes-old-flutes/62693/32 "2009-03-04T19:40:58Z")
The various opinions on “flat foot” syndrome make more sense if you consider that not all feet were equally flat. Some early-to-mid 1800’s flutes had a bottom D which comes out around 40 cents flat (give or take 10 cents) if you blow it uniformly with the other notes. I have three such flutes (a William Bark, a Henry Potter, and a Harris), and I (as well as most others who have tried) find it very difficult to get the D up to pitch even with major effort. The three flutes have similar dimensions, with the spacing between the “E” and the “D” tone holes at around 93 mm. I use this spacing as a rough indication of the flatness of the “D”, recognizing that it is only approximate since it ignores the effect of hole size and bore taper. Some other flutes from the same period are closer to modern tuning. The bottom D is around 15 to 20 cents flat, and you can get a really nice strong and in-tune bottom D by adjusting your embouchure and pushing the note. I have a Metzler flute which is like that (though I can’t guarantee that someone did not shorten the foot in the last 150 years). The “D to E” hole spacing is around 87 mm. I have drawings of two Rudall and Rose flutes (Serial Numbers 655 and 5047) from the Edinburgh University collection, and these have a D to E spacing of 87 and 86mm. So I would expect those two R&R flutes to fit nicely in this intermediate category. The majority of Rudall Rose designs from modern makers also fit this category in hole spacing and in playing characteristics. The third catergory would be the late 1800’s and early 1900’s Pratten and Hawkes flutes, where the bottom D will be pretty much in tune if you blow evenly down the scale. On my Hawkes flute, the D to E spacing is 78 mm, and you have to be a little careful not to blow the low D too sharp. So if someone brings me a flute from the second category (slightly flat) and wants help because they cannot get the low D up to pitch, my advice is to spend some more time working on embouchure and getting to know the flute. However, if they bring one of the very flat flutes, I am certainly prepared to modify it by shortening the foot joint, since it would otherwise not be playable by the owner or anyone else. I agree with the comments that flutes of real historical value should not be altered, and that has to be considered. I also think it appropriate to provide the owner with a document describing what modifications were made, and asking them to pass the document on to future owners of the flute. Dave Copley Loveland, Ohio --- _[View the full topic](https://www.chiffandfipple.com/t/new-flutes-old-flutes/62693)._