Is it easy to do on softer plastic whistles, like Dixons? Could I use a hot nail? If I screw it up and make it too large, I can just tape it up and still play normall, right? And it goes between R2 and R3, only on the underside?
Just checking before I actually do it.
Interesting. I played a Susato with a C hole on the underside centered between hole 1 & 2. It worked very nicely. How is the hole you’re going to drill between R2 and R3 used? (does R2 and R3 mean your right 2nd and right 3rd finger?)
Good luck,
Eric
Do you mean between the top hole and the second hole from the top?
I wouldn’t recommend using a hot nail to make a hole in plastic. It will only melt the plastic, but it won’t remove any material unless you make it red-hot, in which case, it will burn the plastic and make toxic smoke. If you only melt a hole in the plastic, you’ll have globs of melted and then re-hardened plastic sticking out of the hole, both inside and outside of the whistle.
I would drill a hole smaller than I think I need and then enlarge it, starting at the top end of the hole, with an exacto knife to sharpen the pitch until it’s correct.
Cranberry
Step 1) mark the place where you want to put the hole on the back. make sure that it is on the exact underside because if it is off center, it will bug you. I would recommend between the 1st and 2nd hole.
Step 2) Use a center punch or a sharp nail to make a slight indentation.
Step 3) Drill a tiny hole where you make the indentation.
Step 4) Drill the hole again, only slightly bigger. approx the size of a pencil lead.
Step 5) Play the note. Is it still really flat? If so expand the hole. You are best off using a full set of drills so that you can expand the hole one size at a time. If you don’t have a full set of drills, use a dremil tool or a small file. The trick is NOT to over correct. If you jump from a hole the size of a pencil lead to a hole the size of a pencil, you are in serious danger of over drilling and you can’t put back what you take away!
Step 6) Have fun!!
Sandy
Interesting. I played a Susato with a C hole on the underside centered between hole 1 & 2. It worked very nicely. How is the hole you’re going to drill between R2 and R3 used? (does R2 and R3 mean your right 2nd and right 3rd finger?)
I guess that’s what I mean(between 1 & 2)…I want the C hole on the bottom like I’ve heard lots of people talk about. How are the other fingers positioned to get C?
I’m going to see if I can borrow a drill with lots of different sizes of bits and do it that way…curious - will drill bits work on brass whistles, too?
Cranberry, do you play with your right or left hand on top? If it is your right hand, this may be causing some of the apparent confusion evident in this thread. Just curious…
Cranberry, do you play with your right or left hand on top? If it is your right hand, this may be causing some of the apparent confusion evident in this thread. Just curious…
Left. It was I who caused the confusion…I said between 2 and 3 and apparently I meant between 1 and 2. 
Yes,
Drill bits do work on brass. If the whistle you are drilling has really thin walls, just be careful and let the drill do the work. WEAR EYE GLASSES!!
Have fun,
Sandy
One more stupid question. 
What would happen if I tried to drill all of
http://www.overton.de/GRAFIK/SOP-10.JPG
those holes in? I’m guess I couldn’t do that because the original 6 aren’t in the right places to start with?
i think daniel bingamon will fix this for you, for very little money. e-mail him about it at http://www.jubileewhistles.com (i’m not sure if the web adress is right)
i think daniel bingamon will fix this for you, for very little money. e-mail him about it at > http://www.jubileewhistles.com > (i’m not sure if the web adress is right)
Fix what? A C hole on the bottom? I think I could do that myself (or die trying ).
Or did you mean fix an otherwise normal whistle into a ten-hole whistle?
whatever tickle’s your fancy, just go ahead and e-mail him.
The C hole on a Silkstone is offset in the R4 position, not between anything at all. Perhaps a little weak sounding, but useful none the less.
Trisha
Seems to me, you would need a longer whistle for that kind of C hole.
The C hole on a Silkstone is offset in the R4 position, not between anything at all. Perhaps a little weak sounding, but useful none the less.
I think you’re talking about the D-plus whistles, no? That’s the C below D, I’m talking about the next C up…the one you usually finger OXX OOO.
Cranberry, hmm… do I sense the beginnings of a future whistlesmith here?
-Paul
No, what you sense is the beginning of destroying otherwise good whistles by adding holes that don’t really belong.
What I’d really like to have is a 10 hole whistle, but I’ve only seen/heard of a few and they cost a bazillion dollars.
You can never get good at something unless you completely screw it up in every way first so you know what NOT to do. The Good Lord knows- I am speaking from experience. LOLL 
Good luck! Daniel Bingamon is a guy who is taking whistles to a new level. He is trying stuff out that nobody has ever thought of.
I emailed him via the form on his site about a 10 hole whistle…I thought I saw low whistles for $30 on his site. Or mabey I’m just crazy. Has anybody tried those?
I learned the hard way on my first Walton’s mouthpiece that sandpaper tweaked is VERY delicate work. It has apparently lost itself (sadly), but I’d like to keep it forever because it’s special as my first tweaking.
I took my LBW and started a hole in the back with a thumbtack, and then used a little nail to make it bigger, then a bigger nail, etc., until I had it right, and now with my first finger down, I can play a clean, loud C.
It only looks like there is shrapnel going everywhere because I blew the piture up…it doesn’t hurt to play it, lol.
It was actually easy. Holes make me happy.