Hi all. My daughter and her husband have a trip to Ireland planned this June. Can you recommend a few good places to hear some good Irish music? Thanks.
In Dublin you’ll hear first-rate stuff (a lot of the time) at The Cobblestone and Hughes’ bar.
Crotty’s in Kilrush, Co.Clare.
Dirty Nelly’s by the Shannon airport and Bunratty castle
There are a ton more, but those are the ones that stuck out in my head the most.
It depends what part of Ireland they are going to visit, it’s a bit like saying ‘I am going to America, can you name me some good bars to go to?’ 
Do they have a schedule of places they are going to, or are they just going to ‘wing it’ when they get there?
Ceili:
They have two weeks and so much energy they are likely to see most of the country. I am just helping with some of the research before they book their hotels. No schedule, yet.
Well no, not really. 
A quick Google search found these numbers:
Area of Ireland: 70,286 square kilometers
Area of United States (50 states + D.C.): 9,826,630 sq. km
So, the U.S. is about 140 times the size of Ireland.
My own home state is over 24 times the size of Ireland. (Granted, I do live in the largest state.)
Couple the small size of Ireland relative to the U.S. with the distance an American travels to get there, and “can you suggest some good bars in Ireland” seems quite reasonable to us. 
Oh Sarah, Sarah … it sounds like you’ve never been to Ireland.
According to a recent survey, there are 9,386 pubs in the Republic¹. And licence estimates give around 1600 in NI². A total of approximately 11,000 pubs for a population of around 8 million - around 12 times the population of Alaska. Or around one pub per every 700 people.
- http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080724015716AAP0314
- http://www.ulsterpubs.com/knowledgebase/default.asp?ID=6&ItemId=10&topicId=
On a 2-week visit, that would mean checking out 725 pubs per day to find the 10% that might host a session, not to mention a good session.
Couple that with no freeways to get to anywhere truly interesting, and stopping for flocks of school children in towns and flocks of sheep in the country, pulling to the side on narrow roads for oncoming traffic. Where the frantic American approach of “if this is Tuesday, it must be Galway” definitely doesn’t work for enjoying Ireland. Then CWM’s question sounds pretty reasonable to me.
Is there still a weekly session at The Harcourt in Dublin? This was Peter Browne’s (box) session, and a good one. No frills, few tourists, top players, ample lubrication.
Walk up Shop Street in Galway- Tig Coili, Taffe’s, The Quays and others. If in Westport Matt Malloys is the “must” pub but I suggest a side trip to The Grainne Uaile in Newport 10km up the road. I found a very nice Thursday night session there.
True. I’ve spent my whole life in North America, never crossed an ocean. It would be interesting to see Ireland someday, and lots of other places. The older I get, though, the less likely it seems to be that it will ever happen.
But if I do, I’ll ask on C&F to find out which pubs I should visit.
Don’t feel too bad, Sarah. The Irish sometimes have the same problem dealing with the scale of the US, even when they attempt to allow for it.
When in Ireland, I’ve had this conversation more than once:
Q: “Where are you from in America?”
R: “California”
(optional Q): “Where in California?”
(optional R): “San Jose, in the San Francisco Bay area”
Q: “Do you know XXXX? He lives in YYYY”
People asking that question know the US is big, so try to localize me before asking their question, so “YYYY” is usually in California, but it’s never been in San Jose yet. And seldom in the SF Bay area.
For reference: the SF Bay area has about the same population as all of Ireland, and is ~80 miles north to south. California has ~40 million people, and is bigger than Ireland (or Great Britain). Even San Jose, with a population of ~1 million, is bigger than any Irish city save Dublin.
It’s an easy mistake to make. I used to have a similar attitude when I was growing up (in rural northern California). If you live in a rural area or small town, there’s a good chance that you know most folks in the surrounding area at least slightly. Even in the small city I grew up near (population >50,000), there was a good chance any random stranger I met shared at least a few mutual friends.
Now that I live in a medium-large city, I don’t know the majority of the folks who live within two blocks of my house. And I recently ran a fellow I worked with 10 years ago - we were surprised to find that we live within walking distance of one another.
Edit: I realised how much I typed so I have just abridged it, grab a coffee and relax…
Hey HDSarah, there’s a saying that goes ‘Speak only of what you know’.
You can trot out as many figures as you want about the relative size of Ireland compared to the US, but the thing you should remember is that although Ireland is 140 times smaller than the US, you will have at least 140 times the chance of getting completely lost on our little Island. 
Meself, I come from ‘Norn Iron’ (Northern Ireland), so I am naturally a bit biased towards steering your daughter and son in law in that direction, and make no apologies for it. I also am in no way connected to any of the sites I will direct you to here, they are just pointers for you.
With over 1,600 licensed premises in Northern Ireland alone, a lot of time can be wasted trying to find the right pub with ITM and a good pint (although it’s great fun trying!). So I shall offer you a few must see pubs in Belfast. These establishments are all within easy walking distance of each other. Great Victoria Street in Belfast city centre (yes, centre, I did spell it correctly) is known locally as ‘the golden mile’ and it is said that you can try food from any countries in the world there (of course ‘any country in the world’ can’t be taken literally).
Two minutes away from The City hall is ‘The Crown Bar’ read up on it here: http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/the-crown-bar-review.htm
Two doors down the street on the same block is ‘Robinson’s’, (a good pint and Irish traditional music, whoo-hoo!) http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/robinsons-review.htm
This pub was nearly bombed out of existence at the height of ‘the troubles’ because of it’s location, it is straight across the street from the famous ‘The Europa Hotel’ http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/the-europa-hotel-review.htm at one time the most bombed hotel in Europe. (it’s safe now!).
Stroll across to the opposite corner from the Crown and you will find ‘The Beaten Docket’ http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/the-beaten-docket-review.htm a more modern style pub, but great crack on Thurs’ and Fri’ afternoons after work. Take in the Opera house (the Europa can be seen to left in this pic) http://tiara.ie/MemberPhotos/JDuffy/JDuffy-Images/67.jpg next door to the Europa. Stroll for another couple of minutes down the street and find ‘The black man’ in the grounds of Belfast academical college: http://www.victorianweb.org/sculpture/misc/cooke1.jpg
I would recommend doing this: http://www.gotobelfast.com/localtours/viewdetail.cfm/Localtour_Key/49/level/page/category_key/196/Page_Key/275/parent_key/268/type/Page/PaGeName/Book_Online.htm A short stroll up Wellington Place to Donegal Square and you will be looking at the beautiful City Hall, then take a browse around the Linenhall library in Donegal Square North. http://www.linenhall.com/
Feeling hungry? Try this: http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/made-in-belfast-review.htm
it’s just around the corner.
Two minutes away is Fountain Street which is a pedestrian precinct, nip into here: http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/fountain-tavern-review.htm you may get lucky and hear some ITM here but it is very hit and miss, the area is frequented by buskers and at times you can find some great whistle or flute players busking.
Head off a couple of streets away (just off Royal Avenue) and you will find ‘Kelly’s Cellar’s’ and ‘White’s Tavern’. http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/kellys-cellars-review.htm http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/whites-tavern-review.htm
Now, here you will find ITM and great drinks, but after a few watch your head on the archway in Kelly’s or it wont be the Guinness that gives you the sore head! Watch the barmen walk to and fro along the length of the bar and duck under the arch without missing a step.
Head out of Bank Street (where Kelly’s is) and up Castle Street onto High Street and nip up Pottinger’s Entry to ‘The Morning Star’ http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/the-morning-star-review.htm a great place to drink on a Saturday afternoon if only to watch the punters betting on the gee-gee’s. A great place for people watching and ‘quare craic’ if you get into a conversation with the regulars.
A short walk away is the ‘Cathedral Quarter’ of Belfast named after this:
http://www.discovernorthernireland.com/St-Annes-Cathedral-Belfast-P3239
You will find many pubs in the area and lots of great dining, oh, and yes, Trad’ music!! Try these: http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/the-front-page-review.htmnot bad during the day…or http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/the-john-hewitt-review.htm a great pub with ITM. Then there’s http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/the-library-bar-review.htmor http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/northern-whig-review.htm or finally The Duke of York http://www.belfastbar.co.uk/Duke-of-York-review.htm(keep it quiet, they have a top selection of Irish whiskies here, but that’s just between you and me).
I have only just pricked the surface here of what Belfast has to offer, I haven’t even mentioned The Albert clock (when will it fall?), the Ulster folk museum or the Ulster museum or Queens University or…oh, I better stop now.
If you would like a more detailed itinerary I can give you one. There is so much more to see…the Giant’s Causeway, Carrick-a-reed, Glenshane pass, Bushmills distillery.
So many people miss out by avoiding NI, it’s a shame really because there is so much to see.
The above is just a wee taste.
Wow, you should write a trad guide to Belfast. Actually, I think you just did.
Good info there, CWM.
Roarty’s in Cashel, Gleann Cholm Cille, Co. Donegal. Great trad music any summer night after 10:00 (they wait for the students at Oideas Gael to get out of their evening activities)
I also highly recommend the traditional music pub crawl in Dublin. It’s always led by really good trad musicians.
Redwolf
Thanks MT, It’s more of a 30 second taster for tourists. 
Here’s a comprehensive guide to what’s happening in Belfast and other areas in the North. Just one thing to remember, when you leave the environs of the greater Belfast area as given in the top section of this guide, be prepared to drive. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/sean_quinn/sessions.htm
Be prepared to drive and get lost! 
I don’t know about the accuracy of some of the sessions given for some of the Belfast bars, there are a few there that aren’t known for traditional music, they tend more towards DJ’s and more modern style bands. I haven’t been to Belfast for a couple of years but I know that the Duke of York, The Fountain Bar, Fibber Magee’s (out the back of Robinson’s), the John Hewitt, McCracken’s Bar, Maddens Bar, McGuinness’s Bar, Hercules Bar, Cassidy’s, White’s Tavern and Pats Bar all have sessions happening at various times of the week.
Here is a guide to a few other places around Ireland where you may find sessions. I don’t know about the accuracy of some of the times and dates, check before visiting I’d say.
Clare Bunratty - Durty Nelly’s 061 364 861 Tue, Thurs
Clare Cooraclare - Turbridy’s bar 065 58107 Fri
Clare Crusheen - Fogarty’s bar 065 27322 Sat
Clare Doolin - McGann’s Pub 065 74133 Possible any night.
Clare Doolin - O’Connor’s Pub 065 74168 Possible any night
Clare Ennis - Ciaran’s Bar 065 40180 Wed, Thurs, Fri, Sat, Sun
Clare Ennis - Kelly’s Bar 065 28155 Sat, Sun
Clare Ennistymon - Colley’s House 065 71712 Thurs, Fri, Sat, Sun
Clare Ennistymon - Daly’s Matchmaker’s 065 719 199 Thurs, Fri, Sat, Sun
Clare Ennistymon - The Archway 065 71080 Fri, Sat, Sun
Clare Kilaloe - Anchor Inn 061 376 108 Wed
Clare Kilaloe - Piper’s Inn 061 376 885 Fri, Sat, Sun
Clare Kildysart - The Alders 065 32990 Thurs, Sun
Clare Kilfenora - Linnane’s Pub 065 88157 Sat, Sun
Clare Kilfenora - Vaughan ‘s Pub 065 88004 Mon, Thurs, Sat
Clare Kilmihil - Daly’s Pub 065 5005 Sat, Sun
Clare Kilrush - Crotty’s 065 52470 Tue
Clare Kilrush - The Coleen Bawn 065 51176 Thurs
Clare Lahinch - The Nineteenth 065 81414 Sat
Clare The Way Inn 065 51157 Sun
Clare Tulla - Torpey’s 065 - 35130 Sun
Cork An SpailpEDn FE1nach 021 277945 Mon, Tue, Wed, Thurs, F Sun
Cork Gables 021 313 076 Tue, Thurs
Cork Kinsale The Spaniard 021 772 46 Wed, Fri, Sat
Cork Lobby Bar 021 311 113 Tue, Wed, Fri
Cork Middleton - The Meeting Place 021 631 928 Tue, Thurs
Cork The Corner House 021 500 645 Mon, Wed
Cork The Square Pint Charge at the door
Donegal Annagary - Jack’s Thurs
Donegal Annagary - The Shamrock Sat
Donegal Bally Shannon - SeE1n Og 072 51522 Wed
Donegal Buncranna - Central hotel 077 61094 Thurs
Donegal Dunkineely - Central bar Wed
Donegal Falcarragh - Shamrock Lodge 074 35859 Sat
Donegal Glenties - Glen Tavern 075 51170 Fri, Sat
Donegal Glenties - Highland Hotel 074 35859 Sun
Donegal Gorta Hork - Billie’s Bar Tue
Donegal Gorta Hork -Teach Rhuans Thurs
Donegal Gweedore -Hudai Beag’s Mon
Donegal Killybegs - Sail Inn 073 31130 Fri, Sat, Sun
Donegal Moyville - Shan Rawdons Pub 077 82225 Fri
Down Fealty’s bar (Ormeau Bar) - Bangor Fri
Dublin Angler’s Rest 01 220 4364 Mon
Dublin Auld Dubliner 01 677 0527 Mon, Tue, Wed
Dublin Baggot 01 676 1430 7 nights a week
Dublin Brazen Head 01 679 5186 7 nights a week
Dublin Cavanaghs 01 281 8105 Thurs
Dublin Clifden Court 01 874 3535 7 nights a week
Dublin Cuckoss Nest 01 451 0085 Sun
Dublin Culas Chronain Clondalkin 01 457 4847 Fri
Dublin Da Club Possible any night - charge on door
Dublin Fitzsimon’s 01 677 9315 7 night Sat and Sunday afternoon
Dublin Fleet 01 473 2567 Thurs
Dublin Harcourt 01 478 3677 Mon, Tue
Dublin Hughes 01 872 6540 7 nights a week
Dublin International 01 677 9250 SuA
Dublin J J Smyths 01 475 2565 Tue, Sun
Dublin Johnny Fox’s 01 295 5647 7 nights a week
Dublin Keatings 01 873 1563 7 nights a week
Dublin Kitty O’Shea’s 01 660 3353 7 nights a week
Dublin Merchant 01 679 3797 7 nights a week
Dublin Molloys Dun Laoire 01 280 1238 Wed, Sun
Dublin Mother Redkap’s 01 453 8304 Charge on door
Dublin Mulligans Stoneybatter 01 677 9249 Sun
Dublin Noreseman 01 671 5135 Fri, Sat, Sun
Dublin O’Donoghue’s 01 676 2804 7 nights a week
Dublin Paddy Hannah’s 01 679 0526 Sun
Dublin Searson’s 01 660 0494 Thurs
Dublin Slattery’s Rathmines 01 497 2053 Wed, Thurs, Fri, Sat, Sun
Dublin The Cobblestone 7 nights a week and Sunday afternoons.
Dublin Whelan’s 01 478 0764 Charge on door
Dublin White Horse 01 679 3064 Wed
Dublin Wood Quay 01 679 8248 Thurs, Fri, Sat, Sun
Dublin Wynn’s Hotel 01 874 5131 Thurs, Fri
Galway Crane Bar 091 587 419 7 nights a week
Galway Lisheen Bar 091 563804 7 nights a week
Galway Pucan 091 561 528 7 nights a week
Galway Spiddal - Hughes’ 091 553 497 Tue, Thurs, Sat, Sun
Galway Taafe’s Bar 091 564 066 7 nights a week
Galway The Quays 091 568 347 Mon, Tue
Galway The Roisin Dubh Sat, Sun
Kerry Ballyduff - Browne’s Bar 066 31152 Sat, Sun
Kerry Castleisland - Tagney’s bar 066 - 41301 Thurs
Kerry Dingle -Droichead Beag 7 nights a week
Kerry Tralee - Baily’s Corner Pub 066 26230 Tue
Kerry Tralee - Betty’s Bar 066 21405 Fri, Sat, Sun
Kerry Finugue - Angler’s Rest 068 - 40213 Sat
Limerick Abbeyfeale - Central Lounge Bar 068 31188 Sat, Sun
Limerick Adare - Bill Chawke’s 061 396 160 Thurs
Limerick Adare - Collin’s Bar 061 396 400 Sat
Limerick Foynes - Shannon House 069 - 65138 Fri, Sat
Limerick Kildimo - Slattery’s Pub 061 396 138 Sat, Sun
Limerick City Royal George 061 414 566 7 nights a week, possible cover charge
Limerick City Dolan’s 061 314483 7 nights a week
Limerick City Eric’s Bar 061 315 316 Wed, Sun
Limerick City Hanratty’s 061 410993 Thurs, Fri
Limerick City Nancy Blake’s 061 416 443 Mon, Tue, Wed
Limerick City Tait’s tavern 061 418133 Fri
Limerick City The Glen Tavern 061 411 380 Thurs
Limerick City The Locke Bar 061 413 733 Tue
Limerick City The Sally Port 061 417550 Tue, Thurs, Fri
Limerick City Castelconnel Bradshaw’s 061377 976 Tue
Mayo Westport < /st1:place> -Matt Molly’s 7 nights a week plus excellent gig venue
Sligo Carney - Laura’s 071 63056 Sun
Sligo Sligo - Earley’s 071 42171 Thurs
Sligo Sligo - McGarrigle’s 071 711 93 Wed
Sligo Sligo - Shoot The Crows Tue Thurs
Sligo Sligo - Tha Harp Tavern 071 42473 Mon
Sligo Sligo - The Journeyman Wed
Sligo Sligo - The Stables 071 42280 Mon
Sligo Sligo- McLauchlin’s 071 44209 Tue
Tipperary Allen’s Clonmel Sun
Tipperary Birdhill- Boland’s Bar 061 379 277 Wed, Fri, Sun
Tipperary Borrisokane Friars Tavern 0509 47005 Fri, Sun
Tipperary Cahir - Morrisey’s 052 4 21 23 Tue, Thurs
Tipperary Cashel - Feehan’s 062 6 19 27 Mon, Wed
Tipperary Fethard - O’ Shea’s 052 3 12 68 Mon
Tipperary Garrykennedy 067 379 277 Sun
Tipperary Nenagh - Derek Browne’s 067 31402 Second Friday of each month until May
Tipperary Templetouhy Bourke’s Pub 0504 53183 Tue
Tipperary Thurles - Monks 0504 214 61 Wed
Waterford Dungarvan -Bean a Leanna 058 44882 Thurs, Fri, Sun
Waterford Marine Bar - Ring Mon
Waterford Waterford TH Doolin’s Tue
If that lot doesn’t make your head hurt, nothing will 