Just FYI…if you want a brass body on a Killarney, they are available upon request. I just received one, and it’s grand. I regretted selling my prior Killarney, and am happy to have this new one on hand. Plays, well, just like a Killarney, which is what I was after.
I’m not sure why they don’t list it as a standard option…now everyone likes nickel plated bodies.
Eric
I ditched the stock tube on my Killarney since the bell note was way too sharp and the intonation over the whole thing wasn’t great. The headjoint had potential though, so I got some brass tubing at Ace hardware and knocked up a very nice Eb body tube. I think this whistle really wanted to be in Eb, since bore-to-length ratio was a little slim for a D.
Not sure what to say…I’ve had three and the intonation seemed grand to me on all three.
Length-to-bore ratio on the Killarney is pretty standard for a D whistle.
Length-to-bore ratio on the Killarney is pretty standard for a D whistle.
That, and perhaps more importantly, when considering intonation, the hole sizes and -spacing are exactly as the Feadóg. Or the new Potter whistle for that matter.
Indeed, the Killarney is the same as a recent Feadog precisely in regards to hole size and placement. Feadogs are usually pretty well in tune. I suppose it depends on how precise one is about tuning, though. Maybe pull the head out a tad and give the other notes a bit different of a blow?
However, a bit off topic, but the Potter isn’t the same. I am looking at a Potter, a recent Feadog, and a Mark 1 feadog right now, side by side, and all three have different hole size and placement from one another.
the Potter isn’t the same
Fair enough, the top holes are slightly further up and the bottom two slightly enlarged. TET rules! My excuse: it’s early and the eyes aren’t fully working yet (the morning coffee is sitting on the table as I write, now, on to clips.)
That was pretty much my experience with the Killarney whistle I bought a while back. The bottom D was extremely sharp in relation to all of the other notes, and the A and F# (if memory serves me correctly) were both sharp too. I bought the whistle on a whim but left it in a box for months before ever playing it and noticing the tuning issues and figured at that point it was too late to return it to the manufacturer, so I ended up partially taping over two holes and ‘rushing’ the bore to flatten the bottom D. I ended up with a very sweet-sounding and playable whistle, albeit my bottom D is now weak and breaks under any kind of pressure. I wonder if we both got whistles from a particular dud batch - every other Killarney whistle I have heard sounds lovely with a sweet tone and good tuning, and I often think I should order a new one.
+1
I stuck on a Generation tube which had better tuning, which is nickel-plated too.
Just played a good 30 minutes…it’s as in tune as any whistle I’ve ever played. No noticeably sharp bell note, other notes in tune (does take a little less breath to get OXX OOO to get it in tune, but that’s not unusual, either). All in all, a lovely player, and I much prefer the brass body to the nickel plated one…looks nice, too:
I love the look of that!
How is the wall thickness?
I still have a Killarney head (with nickel body), would buying a new one with a brass body be worth it, or would it be more sensible to find a Generation or Feadog body? (And if so, which one?)
I had a Killarney in the past and stuck a brass feadog body on it was great. I sold it, missed it so bought the current whistle.
Yeah, yeah, Jayhawk, get over it 
. Tell de Salier which body if he wants to save himself the expense of a new Killarney, unless the new one is superior in implementation.
I thought I did tell him…brass feadog body. I think it plays the same as the one you have!
So how do you contact them to tell them you’d like a brass body? I see no means of contact on their website and their facebook page has a few requests for brass which appears to have gone unanswered. 
I Google’s for their email address and Tadhg wrote me back the next day. When paying by paypal just put in the special instructions brass body requested.
Thanks for the info!
Does it matter which model Feadog body (MK1, MK2, etc.) or they all the same?
Thanks and best wishes.
Steve
Sorry…no idea. It was one I’d bought within the past 5 years if that helps.
The MK1 has a different hole spacing and size than the most recent feadog (which matches the hole layout of the Killarney).