Does anyone have any ideas about how to build a Delrin keyless flute that won’t roll off the table? I’d like to have one made with that feature. The flute will probably have metal rings. I’m hoping for an idea that would be fairly easy to implement.
I’ve considered the possibility of octagon metal rings, but you couldn’t turn those on a lathe. I saw another post in which someone suggested having key posts built into the body (but without the keys). I think the Delrin will be turned, so I’m not sure how feasible that would be.
On the low tech side, I wonder if a couple of dots of Elmer’s Glue would stick well enough to stop rolling? I’d think it’d be easily removable at a later date.
How about a teardrop or pointy-shaped ring that would fit snugly around the metal part of the tuning slide? It could be just wide enough so’s not to interfere with tuning, and removeable by separating the barrel from the headjoint?
Or put a bead on a hair elastic and wrap it round a few times.
Or an L-shaped or star-shaped dealie that sticks out of the crown, like where the cork adjuster might go?
I just use a rolling pin stand.
Mike
Along the same lines as Kevin’s suggestion … How about a snap-on thumb rest at the foot? Or just a little blob of Blue Tack. Something to break the circularity, and easily removable.
I think having the Eb key (should be compulsory/standard anyway ) is the best suggestion so far, but the cable tie one is elegantly simple more secure than some of the others but unobtrusive if black to match the delrin and easily removable.
I have a short length of thin black shock-cord knotted into a snug loop with a big knot. It happened to be on my desk while I was reading a post from another member about a flute cracked by rolling off the table. I took it as a sign ! At about that time someone else suggested an octagonal end cap.
Here’s the best low-tech solution for keeping a Delrin keyless flute from rolling off the table. As an added bonus, it works for any keyless flute, not just those made of Delrin.
Order a pint of Guinness (if you want to remain true to the tradition) or another beverage of choice. Place it next to your flute on the downslope side of the table. For extra added security in the rare chance your session pub actually has stable or level tables (there must be a pub like that somewhere, although I haven’t encountered it yet), order two pints and place one on either side of the flute to secure it from rolling.
On the rare chance that a waiter actually clears the empty glass from the table after you’ve downed the pint, order another one. In the interim while your next pint is being pulled, live dangerously. Your flute is Delrin, after all. If the session drags on and you find yourself having consumed too many pints, your Delrin flute makes a nice cane as you stagger out of the pub into the night.
I’ve found a 2 pound vise holds the flute to the table pretty securely, although I generally need to get to the session early to drill holes in the table and bolt down the vise
Actually, I’ve used a leather shoelace with a knot in it around the middle of the flute , it works well and kind of gives the Flute an earthy look… if you’re into that sort of thing
BenS
I carry one where ever I go. It gives me a safe place to park it, and allows the condensation to drip out while it’s resting. A standard flute stand with the rubber sleeve removed from the wooden peg will generally fit a simple system flute.
OR you could super-glue a thumb rest from a bass clarinet to it… then it won’t be going anywhere.
Thanks to everyone. Some of these ideas are really simple and should work for an existing flute.
My question was really about how to BUILD a flute that won’t roll. So far, the end cap ideas may be the most useful for constructing a new instrument, although Loren’s boxwood answer wins a prize for wacky humor.
I mentioned that it’ll be Delrin with metal rings because that probably limits the options.
If you’re going to be turning the flute you could leave a flat edge somewhere on the flute. Put the flat edge opposite the embouchure and it would have the nice property of keeping the holes out of the muck on the table as well.
If you can’t manage a single flat edge (you’d have to round the rest by hand) you could leave an entire unturned segment, square it off and round the corners. It would be a “design element”.
The problem isn’t that it is round, it is that the center of gravity is in the center. Just ream it off center. If you make the thin side near the finger holes, it will always roll and stay in the finger hole up position. A Tungsten slug on the thick side (perhaps in the head) could help this along. Making the bore line up could be tricky though…
Personally I like a raised lip plate on a thin body. It keeps my Mel Bay Fife from rolling.
See the flute in my current “avatar”? It’s boxwood. It’s c190 years old. It’s as straight as a ruler. But it has an Eb key!
I’d say on Delrin that a post-mounted Eb key would be the most sensible option - sure, turned in block mount should be possible, but probably more expensive. I would have thought that providing a pillar mounted Eb key (possibly cannibalised from a defunct/unusable old German flute - no need to go to the cost of having one made, though that should not be huge) would be cheaper or at worst no dearer than having special rings or crowns made, serve your stated purpose AND have a very worthwhile real function to boot, though could be ignored if you don’t wish to make proper use of it.
just drill a hole in the table and pound a dowel in it…
) is the best suggestion so far, but the cable tie one is elegantly simple more secure than some of the others but unobtrusive if black to match the delrin and easily removable.
