G’day all…
My D Water Weasel ( PVC ? ) has developed a small crack in the tuning slide tenon 
…
Would anyone have an opinion on what glue should I use to repair the crack ?
I have a modellers super glue type glue called Zap ( Cyanoacrylate ) would it do the job ?..I’d hate to mess up this great Whistle .
Thanks for your help …
You could try wrapping it neatly and snugly with thin cotton sewing thread, then coating that with cyanoacrylate glue (eg Crazy Glue).
If you know someone with machining abilities, you could have someone turn a sleeve out of a suitably sized PVC pipe. Bore the inside of the pipe to fit over the cracked part of the whistle, glue it with PVC glue, then chuck the whistle a lathe and turn the outside down a bit to a thinner profile.
Thanks Paul,
So the crazy glue/Zap will adhere to the PVC nicely ? ..
I should also clarify that the crack is in the upper section of the Whistle…It’s about 15mm long and would be best described as a hairline crack.
If I just applied some glue to the crack and allowed it to ‘wick’ into the crack,do think that would be a strong enough repair ??
Cheers..
No it didn’t. Any fule kno that Weasles POP! They do not snap; neither do they crackle.
Pump the Weasel!
(What ever happened to that thread?)
I read the title and thought “Well, yes, I 've been having a bit of trouble with me weasel as well. Must be the cold weather.”
Perhaps I might suggest ‘Tarzans Grip’ 
.
Mick
And if your Weasel remains solid for more than 4 hours, call a doctor…or just tell everyone in the neighborhood 
If it gets into the crack, yes. Sometimes it helps if you can temporarily widen the crack to allow the glue to work its way inside. I’ve used superglue to repair cracks on cheap whistle heads and it works really well if you can get the glue into the crack. Probably stronger than new! It seems to me though, that there might be a glue used on pvc pipe fittings that might work well. I think it is used to assemble sprinkler systems.
Weasels are too good to risk messing up. Send it to Tommy, is my best advice.
A true repair would involve:
-
Cutting off the cracked tenon,
-
Machining a new length of tenon that gives a suitable sliding fit with the socket and is long enough to insert into a newly bored space in the tube,
-
Boring the tube to accept a new tenon,
-
Cementing the new tenon into the bored out tube.
This will result in a finished repair that is virtually indistinguishable from the original work.
Best wishes,
Jerry
I’m not sure the cyanoacrylate would adhere to the PVC, but it would form a nice rigid coccoon with the thread wrappings I think.
Years ago I had a similar injury to my D Water Weasel, and Glenn repaired it using the second method I mentioned: a machined sleeve. It wasn’t cosmetically perfect, but it wasn’t bad and it has held up perfectly.
Thanks for your advice amigos…
There’s a few methods of repair here and after some thought I going to try and ‘wick’ some Zap into the crack..If there’s no joy there,I’ll try the cotton binding with Zap (like the way runners are bound onto fishing rods)…as per Pauls suggestion…
Best wishes for the festive season 
and I hope the New Year will a good one for you all…
I’m confused.
Is the tenon cracked, or is the socket cracked? You can’t wrap a tenon with thread, but you can wrap a socket with thread, and that’s a good repair. I use clear nail polish to seal the wrapped thread.
Best wishes,
Jerry
I think Zap is a brand name of Cyanoacrylate glue. Yes it will hold cpvc or pvc very well. I think D Water Weasels are made of cpvc (hot water pipe). Pvc is cold water pipe. Zap will hold both. Zap comes in several different viscositys.
If you have the thin Zap it will go into the crack right away. If you have some of the thicker Zap you may need to open the crack just a little, and it will go in. I am sure you know how great Cyanoacrylate holds skin together. Sometimes I put a screwdriver in a vice, pvc in one hand, Zap container in the other hand. Then put the pvc on the screw driver in a way that it opens the crack, and the Zap runs down hill away from fingers. As soon as the Zap is on there pull the pvc away from the screwdriver to let the crack close. Then set it aside and be sure it is dry before doing anything else with it. I don’t think you will need to wrap any string on it. You may need to clean away some of the Zap with a knife when it is DRY to make it fit better, and look nice. I have read some of your posts in the past about working on motorcycles. This little procedure will be easy for you to do.
Another thing you can do is take a piece or pvc or cpvc scrape and wop it with a hammer making it crack, than practice on it with the Zap.
Yes, that is another option. Whistles are easy to repair after you have done some, and already have the tools. All I ask is that return postage be sent with a whistle. 
Sorry for confusing you Jerry …AND on a Christmas Eve too 
…The crack is in the Socket …thats what I meant in the earlier post by ‘the upper section’…danged amateurs !!
Thanks also to you Tommy…the idea of spreading the crack to allow the Zap to penetrate is a good one..
I have both of the Zaps you mention ..(I’m near the end of building a large free-flight/powered model aeroplane with a 6 foot wing span and I’ve used the Zap throughout the build…good stuff ,to be sure )…I’ll try the ThinZap/wick in method.
I’ll give a progress report soon..
to yers ..
Yes, I have found that using the thin Zap wicking is best when what your putting together already has the shape you want.
We could start another with “Crack the Weasel!”
Or maybe one called “The Fisherman Fixed the Fissure”…because thats whats’ happened.I held the gap open a wee bit ,wicked some of the thin Zap in ,released the pressure and then held the crack closed for a while until the Zap Zapped !It feels solid now and I reckon it’s a permanent repair…
Thanks to all who threw in their two bobs worth ( Hijackers too 
)…Merry Christmas fom OZ …