Man, it seems like forever since I’ve been on the message boards . . . anyway, I’m taking the plunge and buying myself a more expensive whistle than my Walton. I’m going for a Parkhurst D (don’t try to talk me out of it, it’s happening! ) and I want to get a hard case to protect it. Somewhere, somewhen, some time ago, I saw a two-piece felt-lined tubular hard case advertised on the internet. It was made specifically for tin whistles, though I can’t remember the material it was made from. Does anyone have a clue where I might find it? The reason it appealed so much to me was that a) it was a hard case, which allows me to take it on canoeing trips so long as I place the case in a dry bag and, b) it was made specifically for tin whistles - no need to substitute with a pool cue case or flute case or something else overly large. Anyway, if you can help out, I’d much appreciate it.
The hard case I used for it is a leather single cigar holder. “Double Corona”, the longest size.
Past, because a dog decided it smelled tasty, and took it for a sinew bone…
Well, I’ll do a search on the Internet, order a new one
Note some are harder than others, and some are metal, wood, or plastic, complete with a integrated humidor (good for wood whistles)…
You may also buy a two-cigars holder, if you like the idea of splitting the whistle for transport. Now, with a Parky, it might mean making sure you make the tuning slide tight again.
I wondered these days how come no-one quotes any more this treasure of a whistle from a treasure of a guy. It’s this C&F fads floatsam-jetsam, I guess…
Cheap version: go to Home Depot or the like and buy a foot or so of appropriate sized PVC pipe and two end caps. The caps will press fit fairly snugly without glue. Wrap the whistle in a piece of cloth, drop it into the tube and cap it. You can roll your car over this with no harm to the whistle.
If you use the pipe and cap. I’d suggest that you cut 4 slits about an inch deep in one end of the pipe before putting the cap on. Friction will still hold the cap on but the slits will enable you to get it back off. I learned this the hard way when the caps on both ends got stuck too tight and I couldn’t get them off. The caps are made to be that tight so they glue permanently to the end. In addition to a cloth slip for the whistle to protect it from the tube sides, you may also want to put a small bit of foam at the bottom. otherwise droping the whistle into the tube can damage the end of the whistle.
PVC pipe is the way to go. Don’t worry about the caps sticking, get threaded lengths (for whatever reason, the lengths are called “nipples”…no resemblance to the real thing), just be sure not to screw them on too tightly.
Wrap the whistle in a hankie and go to your local plumbing shop and find the right length. Add an additional inch or so for the caps. You can fine tune the lengths by sticking felt furniture pads in the caps, this will also provide a soft end in case the whistle rattles around in the pipe.
It may end up cheaper than buying PVC tubing, and looks better too.
It has a hole at the bottom, to keep it ventilated.
It will hold up to a C whistle, but a bit of cloth lining or a soft case inside will be useful.
At the price you could pay, you may even throw away the recorder, though the Zen-on is not the worst plastic one.
) and I want to get a hard case to protect it. Somewhere, somewhen, some time ago, I saw a two-piece felt-lined tubular hard case advertised on the internet. It was made specifically for tin whistles, though I can’t remember the material it was made from. Does anyone have a clue where I might find it? The reason it appealed so much to me was that a) it was a hard case, which allows me to take it on canoeing trips so long as I place the case in a dry bag and, b) it was made specifically for tin whistles - no need to substitute with a pool cue case or flute case or something else overly large. Anyway, if you can help out, I’d much appreciate it.
to let air out so you don’t have trouble unscrewing them, for example, after flying.