Have one of the old Generation cheapies with the moulding line down the centre of the head. Have managed to get the heads off the newer versions for tweaking by using hot water, but this wont budge.
Have heard that it is a better head so SUGGESTIONS PLEASE, but only polite ones.
Thanks,
Bill.
Hi, Bill.
You didn’t mention what key it is. I don’t know if the vintage Generation C and F whistleheads are as difficult to get off as the current ones, but that might be a factor if it’s a C or F.
Otherwise, I’ve never found vintage Generation whistleheads to be any different to remove than the current ones. If it doesn’t come off on the first try:
Make sure your water’s close to boiling (or just boiling).
Don’t lean the whistlehead in the pot. Just hold it immersed for 10 or 15 seconds.
VERY IMPORTANT: When you take it out of the water, pull and twist the whistlehead IMMEDIATELY. If you wait even for two or three seconds, the plastic can cool again enough to shrink too tight on the tube to pull off. It’s the different rates of expansion of the plastic and metal that allows the whistlehead to loosen when you heat it, not anything to do with dissolving or softening the glue.
Best wishes,
Jerry
I recently tried my hand at some home tweaking. I put my oak D in some near boiling water. I no know I did two wrong things. I leaned it in the mug and left it in there to long, because it warped. I didn’t think hot water could actually warp the plastic, but it did. I popped the head off and tried to bend it back into shape. To my surprise, it plays incredible and sounds 100 times better. It’s now my favorite whistle. I heard here that someone accidentally warped a generation and it improved.
The plastic in Oak/Acorn whistleheads has a lower softening temperature than other whistles. I’ve heard two reports like yours, and they were both with Oaks. I’ve twisted them to remove the tube and then found I had twisted the whistlehead into a spiral shape.
Best wishes,
Jerry
I’ve done that as well. 
Fortunately i only wanted the tube for my tweaked Feadog head - well nice!
Well some generations get off on hot water.
Others rely on “solvents” and other mumbo-jumbo.
Since there’s something of a backlash against the radical, and sometimes extreme and experimental, methods employed over the last 50 or so years, I think a strict ultra conservative approach is more in vogue.
Try a smart rap about the lugs with a stout metal ruler - tried and true.
As they say “spare the rod and spoil the child” a few dents in the tenon area never hurt anyone. And A few scars on the body add character. That’ll get the little bleater off 
Discipline, I say!
I have had great success, removing whistle heads, simply by not putting the head into the boiling water, but by putting the whole shaft up to the plastic head in a beer bottle,for about 40 seconds the heat generated along the tube is quite adequate to relax the bond between the 2, and the best thing is you will not ever damage the head, due to heat damage,
use tea towels to grip the head and shaft , and twist / pull, i have never had a problem
always best to make sure the whistle is warm or slightly above room temperature before starting though, excess heat on excess cold is never a good thing.
good luck
David
I’ve taken off hundreds of Generation type whistleheads, and the only ones that were ever damaged by heat were Oak/Acorns. Perhaps the beer bottle approach would solve the problem for Oak/Acorns.
Best wishes,
Jerry
I have two Oaks (both in D) and have taken the heads off of both of them with no heating whatsoever. I just pulled them off with no problems.
I can’t do that with my Gens though. I’ll have to heat them.
Jason
Thanks guys, now off to try the boiling water but not in a beer bottle, that’s too precious.
Should Croydon disappear in a mysterious explosion, you are to blame. 
Thanks again
Bill.
See ya later, decaptitator!
sorry, working too hard.