I think that this guy is try to say that blocks for additional keys can be added later. Is this true? It seems to me that the blocks need to be turned out of the same wood as the chanter.
I don’t see how keys could be added.
I think that this guy is try to say that blocks for additional keys can be added later. Is this true? It seems to me that the blocks need to be turned out of the same wood as the chanter.
I don’t see how keys could be added.
I would not count on being able to add on a block for a key.
I have added blocks to Northumbrian smallpipes and it could be done on uilleann pipes (though not ideal of course). You simply mill a slot across the chanter somewhat below the level of the current wood, mill a block that will fit snugly into this slot and superglue the block in. From there, you cut the key slot and axle hole, line the key slot with metal if you want, and then make the key. Especially with a fully metal lined slot, this method works fine although it is not the ideal (which would be to have left the key blocks during the original chanter production).
Of course, then you just have to worry about the new hole in the chanter affecting the rest of the chanter!
Lugless Gallagher chanter with scalloped tone holes??
Interesting.
That doesn’t sound like one of this normal products. I wonder if it may have been a prototype?
Some tape has been placed on the edges of some of the holes to fine tune the pitch (fairly common practice). In regards to having keys on a chanter, there are different schools of thought. There are talented players out there that don’t make much use of them, if they use them at all, in the normal keys that the music is played in. The c natural key is useful for the high c natural, but generally the c natural below the back d is fingered because it is a very expressive note on the chanter.
Oh really?
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Sounds like that kind of alteration is fraught with peril
If the chanter has no blocks. Can you pin mount the keys to the chanter like the Rogge Regs

or the flute

What do you mean, is there anything wrong with that?

On the issue of keyblocks as later additions, I wouldn’t say it’s a good idea but it’s not quite impossible.
A few motnths ago my B flat key was caught in the reg keys when i picked up the chanter.fore i knew what happened I tore off the key, block and all.
I had trouble glueing back one part of the block so I took the chanter to the maker (who conveniently lives three quarter of a mile across the fields away). We decided repair of the existing blocks was uncertain so the old blocks came off altogether. New square blocks of ebony from the wastebin where then glued onto the chanter, filed into shape, pinned and job done. You can’t actually see anymore a repair was done.
Are those glasses in front of glasses??
And where is the bulb just above the thumbhole? He’s been doing that forever it seems.
Yep, two pairs. ![]()
Lorenzo, I think the ‘bulb’ design started about 3 years ago.
“Glasses in front of glasses” ..Time marches on and get’s top all of us…I luckily still have nice brown hair, granted I have less of it…!
I rather like Seth’s new design on his chanters..very nice touch.
Adding block mounts… certainly possible, and if done right shouldn’t pose any problems… especially with ebony. One of the benefits of ebony is it’s delrin-like qualities…in other words black tends to blend well with black!
This chanter specifically..I believe I am familiar with the history of it… Seth originally made this chanter for our very own Royce Lerwick. Royce specifically requested a chanter without key blocks. He has had some back troubles and his posture created issues with the way he held his chanter I believe and the mounts got in the way some. So the chanter was made to his specific requirements. As I recall it was a fine sounding chanter. I’m pretty sure I know the current owner/seller of the chanter and he is a character than can be trusted. I’m sure that Seth would be more than happy to give the chanter the once over.