You’ve heard about “air” guitar, where somebody pretends to play a guitar which they’re not actually holding? Well, in regard to the detail you spoke of, once you’ve become very familiar with your flute, you could then hold your arms and fingers up, such as to play “air” flute, somebody could then put an actual flute into your hands, and it would fit exactly into place, without your moving a single muscle! That’s how close your flute will become to you.
You mentioned that your RH wrist is at a “steeper” angle, and I’m going to assume that you’re still using a piper’s grip, there. Near the beginning of this thread I mentioned that apparently many pipers and whistle players have adapted a piper’s grip to the transverse flute, but, when a pipe gets turned sideways, things change, and now it’s time for you to consider a new RH grip. Ready?
On the RH, as your lower hand, you’ll need to do two things. 1) Flatten your hand. This will allow your fingers to spread out. 2) While your hand is flattened, turn your thumb so that the tip of the thumb is roughly between the first and the second fingers. Maybe you’re wondering how this unusual position could be useful, but there is a reason. You’re going to “hold” the flute on just the tip of your RH thumb, and the reason why the thumb has such a position has to do with “balancing” the RH wrist. For instance, if you were to hold your thumb to the side of your hand and then use it like that to support the flute, it would cause an imbalance to your wrist, causing your wrist to turn away from you, sideways, such that certain muscles would then be needed in order to keep your wrist straight, and that’s not good. However, by tucking your thumb under your hand, as above, far less effort is required to keep your wrist straight, and that’s a good thing. Now, what I’ve just mentioned perhaps could be a difficult concept to grasp, so it’s probably a good idea to find some YouTube clips which feature “classical” flute players, and to see just how they do it.
By using this kind of RH grip, you’ll find that your RH wrist will be quite straight. Again, the object is to get both wrists as straight as possible.
Edit#2: Unlike the piper’s grip, the “normal” transverse flute grip has all of the fingers at least somewhat curved, not straight, including that stretched L3 finger I earlier mentioned. And, when lifting the fingers, the idea is to lift them only enough to fully vent the tone holes, no more than that, and this eventually will help to increase your finger speed. Now, you may have noticed that some traditional ITM players sometimes lift their fingers much higher than that, but here, in these posts, I’m speaking of classical technique, only, and not of ITM technique. So, for the purpose of learning to play the transverse flute, I’d suggest first learning classical finger technique, such as keeping the fingers close to the tone holes, before going on to more specialized techniques, such as those of ITM. That way, the odds are that you’ll more quickly master finger articulation (all these new words!). It’s like learning the “correct” rules first, before going on to learning how to break those same rules.
Another thing to mention has to do with how the RH, the LH, and the chin all work together, to support the flute. For instance, the chin and the RH, at the thumb, combine with each other to push in one direction, while the LH, at the base of the index finger, pushes in exactly the opposite direction. Remember, the flute itself is not all that heavy, and you’ll likely find that it takes more strength just to hold your arms up, than it does to hold the flute. Edit: The overall idea, here, is to coordinate the chin, the LH, and the RH as something of a team, as it takes all three working together to successfully hold a flute.
OK, we’ve now covered a lot of ground, indeed, you now have a complete, working picture of how to hold a transverse flute correctly, and that’s a major accomplishment!
Again, as so many flute students could know, it simply will take time to understand all of what’s going on, to develop the techniques involved, and to develop the strengths required. Practically speaking, it could take a few months of daily practice to get a good technique established, so be patient, and hang in there!
Next: The embouchure
