First flute/fife/picc

Hello everyone. Well, I’ve thinking for quite some time now and would like to explore into the side blown world. I would like recommendations for a good first instrument. I’m sure I would need the most forgiving instrument possible:). I play whistle so I would think I would want to start with a high D fife for starters? Perhaps I should start with a Bb? Please give me your opinions. Thanks.

A high D or high Bb will be hard to play.
It takes awhile to develop an good embouchure,
necessary to sound the instrument.
Higher pitched flutes are more demanding.
Unless there’s a problem, you can
start with a standard D instrument.
That’s an octave deeper than a soprano
D whistle.

Thanks for the reply. A hand injury is a concern of mine. I have a difficult time with big finger stretches. I tried a low D whistle and was in much pain (even with the pipers grip). I fear a standard D flute will be the same.

Seeing as you have concerns about finger stretch, try this: http://www.sweetheartflute.com/fifes.html

In either laminated wood, or in Blackwood, this high D fife can be ordered with a flute head joint and/or a whistle head joint, yes, as a combination.

The “Professional” series includes a conical bore. It’s a serious flute!

BTW, I have one, and speaking as a long time Sweetheart fan, I can attest to the quality of Sweetheart flutes. For the money, they’re of great value.

Still, Jim’s point is a good one. The Sweets also make nice F and G flutes, which are great starter instruments. They would be a lot easier to play than a high D or Bb, and don’t require the stretch of a low D.

My very first flute was a Sweetheart G in maple, and it was a good choice.

Second sweetheart G flutes and F flutes (also A)

However Casey burns makes a small hands D flute
that is pretty remarkable–really close together holes.
This might well solve your problem and get you
started on a standard D flute. You can call Casey
and talk to him about it.

Ah, good morning! I got up extra early, due to rain, lightning, and some very noisy thunder.

Seeing as the OP could have some finger stretch issues, and seeing as the OP is already a whistle player, it seemed that a high D combo might do.

True, a lower pitched flute could have an easier embouchure, to get started with.

I also second the suggestion for a mid-range flute. I think I’d go for a G, though, so at least some of the ITM out there is easily acceptable in mixed company. An F would be fine if you’re just playing by yourself. BTW, Doug Tipple makes great flutes in these sizes as well!

Pat

Dear Synergy,

I definately would not recommend starting on a piccolo nor fife.

When I started down the wooden flute path, I started on a piccolo and then tried a fife. While these instruments are easy on the hands they are much more difficult to learn to play in a “pleasing” manner.

It took me three and a half years before I felt I could tame the piccolo. Though nearly all of that time was spent on wooden flutes.

The fife (Bb) is comfortable and fairly easy to play. But nearly all of the ones available are made for the Fife & Drum corps and they play in the 3rd register (to be heard over cannon fire). Hence they are not optimized for playing in the bottom register, some can not even play the bottom notes.

I would strongly concur with the other’s recommendations for flutes in the keys of: A G or F. I think these are the easiest to handle and sound very good!

I agree with most of the advice already given - a G or F flute would be most approachable both for span and embouchure…though of course is not very useful for social music. Therefore, if you can find a concert size “low D” flute you can span comfortably, that would be the best choice.

Regarding fifes, whilst what Sillydill has written is true, just remember that very often treble Bb band flutes (same size and pitch as true fifes) are very often misdescribed as “fifes” and are much more approachable to play as they are optimised for normal flute range of about two octaves and a fifth from the fundamental, not just the upper registers like true fifes. There are always loads of these about on eBay and in junk shops etc., though the majority tend to be High Pitch. Many were only ever cheap and cruddy, but there are many excellently playable little instruments among them (provided again that you don’t want to play in company, but excellent to hone your flute skills on privately), often available for about £30-40 (approx double the figures for U$) or less.

If you want to play Irish and you want to go down the flute path, the best choice is low D, period. I second the recomendation on an ergonomic concert flute, Casey Burns makes the best known one.
Remember that low whistles are generally cylindrical bore, bigger spacing than a conical bore flute. If you can lay you hand on a table and spread your fingers with about an inch between the tips your first and second and second and third fingers, you should have no problem finding a flute that fits. Get a slideless boxwood, they weight next to nothing, making it even easier. You will want to focus on proper grip and posture to insure an ergonomic playing position as well.

Soon I’m off back home to my awaiting dram of
whisky :party:

FWIW (I am a beginner, 1 year). But I have small hands, a slight left hand problem, Tipples in G and F and a Casey Burns small-handed D folk-flute.

The Tipple F sounds nice but is a slightly bigger stretch than the Burns D, and the holes are a lot bigger. I have no trouble with it now but might have done before getting used to the Burns. The Tipple G is a very slightly smaller stretch than the Burns (but the holes are still bigger).

I think if I had started on the Tipple G the change to the Burns D would not have been a problem, and playing the G when travelling helps my embouchure a lot.

Thanks for the wonderful replies everyone. Perhaps I should have posted a bit of a background - I dabbles a bit with a modern boehm flute and I found that I could do the finger placement on that. The problem with that was of the weight of the flute (and I’m thinking that an alloy, keyed flute such as that of the Boehm flute, would be heavier than a wood keyless flute). I understand that some (most?) keyless flutes will have a larger finger stretch which leads me to believe that perhaps a G flute may be similar in reach to the keyed Boehm flute?? If someone could please confirm this . . .

My budget is $200, and though I have read many good things about the Casey Burns ergo folk flute, I’m afraid it is out of my price range. I am interested in the Sweetheart flutes and also the Miller Windwood bamboo flutes (are these well for beginners?) Perhaps some better names in my range?

Jemtheflute - Do you know any of those brand names which make a full range playable Bb fife?

Thanks again everyone.

In my experience balance is more important than weight.

Boehms tend to be wel balanced.
Classicals tend to be widely varied.
The finger spread, right hand, on Classicals (“D” & “Eb”) are farther than Boehms, “F” less.

  • these three are generally true, may be exceptions -

Sweetheart flutes and also the Miller Windwood bamboo flutes

either would do ya fine, I’d lean towards the Sweets if you’re goin’ Irish. (there are some very knowledgeable people about regarding the Sweetharts)

I have a Casey Burns small-handed Folk Flute. The finger stretch is smaller than the Bb whistle. He makes the folk flute in boxwood now. Boxwood feels as light as plastic and has a lovely sound.

My local music shop sells a lot of cane flutes made in India in all sizes. They are surprisingly easy to play, even the high D. They are less than $20. If you just want to dabble, that’s another option.

About the Sweetheart high D fife/whistle, let me put in a word of warning.

For instance, I’ve never played the whistle version, but as a flute, it screams, especially in its upper range!

Oh, it’s in fine tune, and in fine tone, but the pitch frequencies are right up there, and a pair of earplugs just might come in handy, as fair warning.

:slight_smile:

Hi Synergy,

I’ve been playing for about 14 months so still “getting the hang of it” but my path led me to a Tipple cylindrical, tunable D flute, which gave me an affordable way to get started in trad, and I bought a Bb band flute from about 1850 off ebay for about $40, which is good for practicing when my hands are tired from the long stretch of the big D. Most recently I found a 1-key D fife from about the same period which “screams” but is fun to play.

I bought a keyed piccolo from about 1900 that is pretty unplayable off ebay too, so you definately take your chances when you go that route. Recently I saw a fife in C made by Yamaha, keyless w/lip plate that goes for about $10 new. I think I’ll get one of those just for fun & cause I read that they had a good sound & good for beginners & I like Yamaha instruments.

I’ve just ordered a Forbes delrin flute to get a conical flute as I feel I’m ready for that next step/commitment.

It took me the better part of a year to get more or less comfortable with the Tipple & I still have a long way to go, but definately have made a lot of progress. The Tipple is very light, as you mentioned weight. My advice is go for what appeals to you and what is fun for you.

Best

Deisman

It appears that the Casey Burns Folk Flute is among the most recommended for a beginner and for those that need a more ergo hole spacing. I found a link from “A Guide To The Irish Flute” web page that showed the Folk Flute pricing at $250. I clicked on the link and the Casey Burns page shows it for $375 (pretty big price difference). Is there a source where these can be found used (budget requires this)? Next best seems to be a Tipple in a smaller key. Thanks.

I don’t mean to be the bearer of bad news, here, but in all honesty, if a good used Folk Flute showed up for $200, it likely would be sold, near immediately.

Here’s a quite recent example, and please note the time frame, about two and a half hours: http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php?t=62430

For a tight budget, a Tipple allows a player to get started, and that’s the most important thing. I’d suggest one with the optional lip plate.

Doug Tipple has provided a real opportunity, for many. His flutes aren’t fancy, but they sure are functional, and I speak from experience.

This is from Casey’s site. This is not about the Folk Flute
but the small-handed flute. I’ve played these and there
is no question in my mind that there is no stretch
problem here. People with TINY hands can play these.
Also they sound as good as Casey’s regular flutes,
at least as far as I can tell. Also a D flute enables you to
play Irish music, most of which requires a D flute.
As there’s an entirely adequate small hands D flute,
and you’re going to want one if you play flute,
there’s something to be said for starting with
what you will need.

From FAQ:


"Does a “Small-Handed flute” mean a compromise in responsiveness, voicing, or tonal quality?

Emphatically NO. This flute is essentially one of my own extrapolation and design. My Pratten-based Small-Handed flute began as a strict copy of a Pratten flute by Boosey and Sons. As I made keyless copies of this flute, I found the bottom D to be unstable, until I moved the C# hole upwards a few millimeters towards the embouchure. I eventually, on later copies, moved the remaining finger holes up to be within a more comfortable reach. As time went on, I experimented with slightly different finger placements, bore configurations, embouchure shape, and many other details, always aiming for the goal of an easy to play and wonderful sounding Irish flute in mind. I believe that an Irish flute should fill up easily for both the weak and the strong player, be comfortable on the hands, and support a nice, reedy and firm bottom D, so important in Irish music. "