Here it is. I got a brand new Dixon Low D last week. Within hours, I had dropped it and broken it. From the opinion of everyone I talked to, a once in a million occurence (and it had to happen to me!..). Nothing to do with a manufacturing defect in any way, just pure dumb luck.
Thom Larsen at the Whistle Shop had offered to try and fix it, but I was in a hurry, so I replaced it with a new one.
The break is very clean, right at the joint underneath the Dixon logo. Someone with some dexterity, maybe a model hobby background, and access to non-commercial strength glue may just be able to fix it. I tried, but I am notoriously not gifted with handiwork (one of those who just look at a hammer and get hurt…)
So, before I throw it out, if there is anyone out there who wants to give it a whirl (you fix it, you can keep it)? Let me know and I’ll send the pieces out.
Since this is not a sale or auction, you can post back to this thread.
Cran, I’d look for PVC cement in your local hardware shop, the kind specified as being for potable water pipes. (non-toxic after curing). If you could find some thin PVC sheeting, gluing a strip of it around the outside of the break would provide quite a bit of stability.
Two-part epoxies would probably work well also.
Be aware that some PVC cements and epoxies generate a bit of heat when curing, be sure both pieces are well supported, and clamped in place, otherwise you may get some interesting “Dali-esque” effects.
Cran, I’d look for PVC cement in your local hardware shop, the kind specified as being for potable water pipes. (non-toxic after curing). If you could find some thin PVC sheeting, gluing a strip of it around the outside of the break would provide quite a bit of stability.
Two-part epoxies would probably work well also.
Be aware that some PVC cements and epoxies generate a bit of heat when curing, be sure both pieces are well supported, and clamped in place, otherwise you may get some interesting “Dali-esque” effects.
My uncle works with woods (not whistles though) and I was going to see if he could fix it because I remembered him talking about some kind of strong glue he had. But what you suggested sounds better. I’ve seen the cement stuff you’re talking about, too so I know exactly what it is.
Well, I got the whistle right when the boards went down, and used pipe glue and used black tape around it to cover the crusty looking dried glue, and it worked like a charm!
I have a Dixon Low D. If only I could get piper’s grip to work. With my boney fingers I don’t have a chance and with the regular grip, I can do it but it hurts after about 20 minutes…
As long as you’re getting a good seal, and your fingers can move easily enough, don’t sweat the pain too much.
Seriously, it’s normal to get an ache in the hands/wrists when you first start playing the larger low whistles. It will take a few weeks at least for your hands to build up to it. Until then, don’t overdo it (especially considering your wrist issues). If it hurts, stop, and come back to it later.
I thought I was done with all that until I picked up the Bass-Bb. Now I’m going through it all over again. Only it’s taking longer this time. Partially because the stresses are more significant, and partially because I don’t spend near as much time playing that whistle.
If only I could get piper’s grip to work. With my boney fingers I don’t have a chance and with the regular grip, I can do it but it hurts after about 20 minutes… 
Now I’m going through it all over again. Only it’s taking longer this time. Partially because the stresses are more significant, and partially because I don’t spend near as much time playing that whistle.