My left index finger feels cramped and, if I play a lot,
it feels strained. I’m using standard grip, the flute
resting on the base of my left index, and
the finger is hooked around pretty sharp.
Any advice? Any solution short of amputation
will be considered seriously
There are these doodads classical flutists
stick on their flutes, maybe these enable
them to extend the index more?
Anybody know?
Where does one buy these?
What are they called?
Bo peeps. Uh, bopeps. I had one, but they are too skinny for a wooden
flute. I think you want traction more than diameter increase. We used a
piece of the inner tube of a bicycle tire for this. Before that, a good old
fat elastic band. Didn’t Charles Nicholson use sharkskin. Or was it
sealskin?
You also might be able to raise the flute a bit higher on the finger, that’s
what I did. But now I have a strained pinkie on the other hand so the
motto really is “don’t squeeze”..
Lesl
Do you have a split body flute? I like to turn the halves different amounts to reduce strain
on the wrist of the RH and reduce strain on the fingers of the LH. Not exactly the same as
the Nicholson document suggested, but similar. Kind of. Of course, if you already have
a top end flute that has a one-piece body, that may not be any good…
In general, for finger and wrist care, I take a Glucosamine/Chondritin/MSM supplement
now and again, which is basically vitamins for the joints, and I do a set of hand and
wrist stretches a couple times a day, which keeps up flexibility.
If I press too hard, the base of my finger gets sore, but my finger doesn’t really feel
any strain or cramping. I don’t have keys, though, and I have to admit, I’m sometimes
cheating the standard 3-point grip with a light touch of the LH thumb and RH pinky.
That extra stability takes strain off the LH index finger for me, but won’t work with
keys, and is said to be a bad habit…
Thanks. Bopeps.
The advice about not squeezing is exceedingly well taken,
I agree. Relax, relax, relax.
I don’t need traction, I think, but more distance
between hand and flute, so that the index
finger can be extended a bit more.
Maybe five rubber bands!
Oh I remember what works for that! In the hardware store you can
get some soft plastic clear tubing. The largest diameter is just a bit
smaller than a flute. You can warm it up and cut it to make a bo peep that
will grip around to widen the diameter. Also that gorillia snot stuff can
make the flute a bit tacky (ok for wood), which sometimes helps. I used
to use them both at different times!
Lesl
Nicholson used seal skin in a cavity where the right thumb presses outwards in the three-point 19th century grip. At the base of the left index finger, he had a depression cut, effectively making the flute thinner here, not thicker. He recommended using the tips of L1 and L2, but the flat of L3. You see a lot of old flutes with fingernail grooves on L1 and L2.
Here’s the relevant stuff from Nicholson:
"The position of the flute should be nearly horizontal, being supported by placing the second joint (about an inch above the first hole) against the side of the first finger of the left hand, resting it nearly as high as the knuckles. By this means, that finger will have free action, and the second and third fingers can be more easily brought over the holes, than if the flute were placed lower down on the joint of the finger.
The first and second holes should be covered with the points of the first and second fingers; and the third hole by the third finger, using the broad part immediately under the nail. By which the first and second fingers become properly curved, the little finger will find its place exactly over the G# or Ab key, and the thumb will be over the A# or Bb key.
The thumb of right hand must press against the third joint of the flute, being placed nearly under the fourth and fifth holes, but nearer the fourth. The fingers must be curved, particularly the second. Great care must be taken to avoid the third being straight, for to this fault may be attributed the difficulty experienced by many amateurs in the use of the F natural and lower C keys. The little finger should be over the D# or Eb key.
This being understood, place the mouth-hole of the flute at the centre of the under lip, resting the instrument between that and the chin. With the pressure of the thumb of the right hand acting against the pressure of the first finger of the left, and the flute being placed to the lip, as here described, the instrument will obtain the proper and only support it should depend upon. This will be fully experienced when the pupil is sufficiently advanced to play in the keys of B with five sharps, or A with four flats. (Snip)
As this position of the instrument will be found somewhat difficult, it may in a great measure be relieved by pressing the thumb of the left hand on the second joint of the flute, just above the Bb key. So convinced am I, from long experience, of the necessity of the instrument being held with great firmness, that in order to accomplish it, I have a groove cut out of the second joint (about half the thickness of the wood) to receive that part or the finger on which the pressure lies, which brings the hand closer, and at the same time gives additional support to the instrument.
The third joint I have also grooved out on the part where the thumb presses and inserted a piece of seal-skin; which prevents the thumb from slipping and gives great firmness to the right hand." (Snip)
Terry
Thanks to all.
Where there’s a will, there’s a way,
as lawyers say!
I saw something in a local computer store (CompUSA) that I thought might be great on a flute. It was a clear plastic that is made to put on the side of a mouse to increase traction with the hand. It think it was called something like “Mouse Grips”. Here’s a discussion about it:
http://www.svc.com/mousegrip.html
Some of it is black, so it probably looks good on a blackwood flute. I think you can get it clear too.
But.. what’s wrong with using piper’s grip?
thanks wolvy.
Yes, I’m trying piper’s grip a bit.
And it wholly solves that problem.
But i’m very used to traditional grip.
Also, and this is a question,
how do you get at all the left-hand keys
on a keyed flute when you use
piper’s grip? Is there a way?
My thumb is all the way
over.
One of the few things I have not had trouble with in my miserable life is gripping my mouse. It seems to be roughly the inside shape of a hand.
The mind boggles !
That is another problem.
The " Nicholson " index finger cutout can be seen on the Monzani ( Cornelius Ward ) flute with the beautiful cast rings with the roses and leaves roundshown under "what cocus wood looks like ".
Look for the red tenon winding.
I think the cutaway is original.
andrew, if I ever got lucky enough, I would own a flute like that one.
When you tire of it, think of me, o.k.?
M
I don’t need to get tired of the flute to think of you WD !
It is pretty, isn’t it.
I must not tell you how well it plays ! That would upset you !
I suppose you would want me to throw in the ivory flute as that was made by Cornelius Ward as well, I expect.
( You will have to talk to my executors in another week or two ! )
If I ever get lucky enough I will wake up one morning to find that all my flute collecting was but a bad dream , the house is tidy, and my bank account is looking good.
But andrew! There are simply more important things than a tidy house and a large bank account! As I know too well!
Yes, I’m afraid if I knew how well the flute played, I would have to cry.
No ivory though.
I much prefer the warm appearance of wood!
M
The ivory is much cooler when I shove the flute down my trouser leg when I am expecting visitors.
( To get it warm ready to play, of course)
I hope you are not a member of the society for the protection of long dead elephants.
The wood certainly burns better than the ivory.
Why… I hardly know what to say!
M