Ehhh what do YOU mean? My comments are generally always positive, O-K-A-Y??? (gun pointed at you)
Hmmmm I dunno, BUT I think that a Copeland Low D is excluded of WhOA behavior, it doesnt count. It’s a natural expense, as much as buying food for the kids or paying your rent…
Spoken like a true Canadian. I’m with Az, anyone who can afford one simply ought to have a Copeland low-D (and a Thin Weasel C). I thought the Burke low-D was the last one that I needed till I got the Copeland. I don’t play the Burke much anymore.
My Copeland low D, which I’ve had for a few months, is by far the nicest low D I have ever tried. I should note that I asked Jim/Michael for an “easy blower”, and the result was exactly what I was hoping for. I think, if the whistle had taken significantly more air than it does, I would like it much less (so maybe “normal” Copeland low Ds might not be to my liking?)…
Wonderful tone (ranges from velvety to reedy, depending on how you blow it), perfect volume, easy reach, beautiful craftsmanship. What more can one ask for?
Jens, it seems you’re hitting bull’s eye a twilight zone in our terminology:
To you, “easy blower” seems to mean it takes less air.
To me–but after all, I’m just an overposting newbie–easy blower is just the opposite of high back-pressure (like those Kerry Pros I gather you favour)…
Yes, less air, and also that it takes less “leaning into” to get the high octave (ie. requires less breath pressure) - related, but not identical to the first meaning. Lucky for me, misters Copeland and Rementer seem to have the same understanding of the term as I do. The whistle does have quite a bit of back pressure, which I like.
My two Kerry Pros (low F and low D) both have quite a bit of back pressure. The low F doesn’t require too much air pressure to get the second octave, while the low D does require considerably more. I prefer the low F (for that and other reasons).
Wwwwwwright.
I know you guys.
At first audition it’s a soothing advice, but if I’d listen closely, especially with this mantra, I’d end up with a sore case of DidJerryDoA…
And with Wombat, given his latest WhOacquisitions, it may even be BeBopAWhoA!
Hmmm, interesting, I wonder what it would be like to play the Copeland with back pressure. Mine doesnt have “any” back pressure, but the second octave is very, very easy to get and doesnt require much air. But even then, I guess playing the Copeland does require more air than playing an Overton because of the lack of back pressure. I also wonder about volume. I guess the standard Copeland does have more volume then the “back pressure” one, but how much?
While my Copeland is certainly not the most “back-pressureish” whistle on the market, it does have more BP than some other whistles I’ve tried. Eg., a Burke alu low D I used to own had much, much less BP than the Copeland. On the Burke I felt as if the air I blew into the whistle went straight out the other end. Not something I was fond of, and the Copeland was a big improvement in that respect. My Copeland does not require more air than the Overton-style (ie. cylindrical alu) whistles I’ve tried.
I’d say the volume of my Copeland is medium’ish. Considerably louder than, say, a Dixon. The lower octave is about on par with Overton-style low whistles, ie. strong and assertive. The balance with the second octave is very good, and the second octave doesn’t sound much louder than the first. In particular, the upper notes in that octave are not shrill and piercing at all.
One particular aspect of the whistle’s volume, is that the first octave has to be played with a certain amount of force in order to stay in tune with the second octave. If played too softly, the first octave goes flat relative to the second (since the second can’t be played equally soft). I guess the tuning’s dependance on force has something to do with the whistle being conical, since it’s a phenomenon I’ve also found in simple system flutes, but much less in most cylindrical whistles.
That’s very interesting, because I think that my Copeland works the other way around if you want to play it in tune. If you “overblow” the first octave, it’s going to be sharp compared to the second octave. It’s also very easy to overblow the first octave since there’s not much pressure, but the second octave comes in very quickly.
Oh well, why don’t you show up in Ireland in july so that we can compare those whistles in person?
You’re both two respected members of this here community
And both blow Copelands as well as other fancy whistles.
Well that may be the trouble in the issue
And you should sort out a detail between U2.
See, a Copeland works just the opposite of an Overton (or lookalike)
I mean one you blow by the pointy end, the other vice-versa.
It’s like holding a baseball bat vs a billiard cue
(not that I intend to blow either of these).
So one of you probably has it mixed up…
Now ducking for cover while Jens and Azalin are casting at me razor-sharpened Clarke originals and Senoteews…