Sad to say they went out looking as they came in as I didn’t know nuttin’ yet. I washed them though.
In the mean time Michael Burke has been kind enough to email me the following and said it was fine to share it:
Hi Patrick,
I would not use 0000 steel wool on an aluminum whistle unless it already
has a matte or brushed finish. If it is one of mine, it will not look
good if you use steel wool on it. Ideally, a cloth polishing wheel with
some white diamond polish would make it like new, but if you are
polishing brass with polish, then why not use Never-Dull on the
aluminum? It is fine for aluminum, but get ready for a lot of black on
your hands and go over it a few times and polish vigorously, then wipe
down with alcohol… Never-Dull is a cotton wadding polish
that is in auto departments or stores. I get mine at Walmart.
All the best
Mike
Thanks much Michael.
Interestingly, I’ve never had an aluminum Burke come through that I didn’t think looked great regardless of the age. It’s only the matte-finished whistles that occasionally could use a little touch up.
Bob, I understand what you’re saying, and I have no doubt what you are using works well for your purposes (although I’m not certain exactly what those are) however, I’m attempting to clarify in an effort to avoid confusion for those with little or no experience, who are specifically interested in polishing already made whistles.
To that end: In the jewelery trade, there are several different types of buffing compounds, but typically only the finest (least abrasive) are referred to as “Rouge”, which come in different colors for different metals, although the red works well for most common metals, and as MB suggested, White Diamond might be a good choice for aluminum, as it is made for softer metals. Some of the compounds you are using, are very likely not rouge or White Diamond like, but heavier cutting compounds, which would be inapropriate for polishing already finished whistles simply in need of a touch up.
Also, bench top buffing machines often only come with one speed, which may be relatively high. This, when combined with something more abrasive than than the standard rouge, may take metal off very quickly, particularly in the hands of someone not experienced with wheel buffing and compounds.
Finally, with regard to different types of aluminum: Certainly some are hardier than others, however in general, the type of aluminum we most often see whistles made from, is softer/less abrasion resistant than the Brass, Nickel and Silver we see in whistle bodies and parts, so I’m simply urging caution. Certainly those with experience, like yourself, don’t need this advice, for others however, it might mean the difference between a polished whistle, and a ruined one, if you see what I mean.
Different makers get their matte finishes in different ways, which is why I didn’t give specifics, best to contact a maker the maker in question. In general, the matte type finish is more prone to showing noticable scratches than some polished finishes from the same material. However, unless I’m mistaken, the thin walled aluminum alloy that MB and other makers of thin walled aluminum whistles use, is different (more abrasion resistant) than the thick walled aluminum alloy used to make the normally matte finished aluminum whistles we generally see.
Not to worry Barry, that was my blunder, with the best of intentions. You know how heavy handed I am, I’ve already gone through a case of single malt with this whistle polishing regimen.
Toothpaste, .. I wouldn’t use anything toxic on something I stick in my mouth! Never mind rincing it afterward… would you trust putting a whistle in your mouth after polishing it with lets say PCB, Rat Poison or Cyanide and a good rince?
Even traces of toxic polishing compound can’t be good for your health.
Well I just used an SOS pad to clean up the fipple of my newly acquired Overton low F, looked like one of it’s previous owners was a fipple bitter … looks as good as new now.
